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Yeah, I've still got that gut feeling that the problem lies between the rotor and the sparkplugs. We know all the components are quality products but the connections are what I'd like to confirm. That cheap inline spark tester in post #152 would be a definitive test.

Found it and another.

just to let the forum members know I have a 260z with the 2 lift struts for the hatch. today I did install the Stabilus brand strut part # is 3b250273 and the hatch opens up 95% on its own. after I push the button to open the hatch, I raised it maybe 3-4" and it goes all the way to the top. what a difference. I believe the force is 44lbs for each strut and it does close really easy. just an update for the forum.

I agree it doesn't seem to be oil fouled. I still think it's ignition related. I would replace the whole ignition. Even if just to diagnose. A leakdown test would be good too, because it would tend to rule out a compression or valve sealing issue

Yes, it would be interesting to hear where @dutchzcarguy has found someone selling discontinued NOS fuel pumps.

I couldn't get the .55 dvd on SUs to work. I took the lids off and put them on top of a small glass with the floats moving up and down free. They are finally doing as when new. Here's the measurement I used from @zKars if I remember right.

With the '71A gearbox, it was fitted to the U20 engine in the SR(L)311 roadster, and also fitted to the early S30, but the bell housing was different, as the starter is on the other side. As the North American market didn't get the 5 speed from the factory until at some point with the 280z (whilst other countries did from the start of the S30 production run) someone was just joined the rear roadster 71A rear and front Z bell housing. My take on it.

Now that I am looking at a blown up photo of that no. 4 plug, It for sure looks to be carbon fouled. I would like to see a photo of no. 4 with the valve cover removed. Cam, springs, retainers, lash pads, etc, just of no. 4. Cropped.

just now noticed i dont have on a Fuel Pump Spacer Insulator Plate between head and pump. that may have caused issue. anyway i have a spacer on the way as i dont have one in my spare parts bin

There is a whole long thread about bad new mechanical fuel pumps out there somewhere on the forum. Within the last 5 years I think. Worth finding, it has solutions in it. New does not mean good.

If you have a handheld vacuum pump (like a Mighty Vac), you would put it on the outlet of the fuel filter and try drawing fuel into the filter. If it can, then start to suspect the fuel pump.

"Crank" is what the starter does to the crankshaft. First the engine cranks, then it starts. Are you saying that you have a crank - no start problem? Or a no crank problem? Edit - couldn't see your signature until I signed in. Carbs. Could be water.

You can get a gasket material set at Orilleys. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/oil--chemicals---fluids/adhesives---sealants/gasket-material/33e43ac38f2f/fel-pro-gasket-material/fel0/3060/v/a/6681/automotive-truck-1987-nissan-d21-pickup?q=gasket+material&pos=0 Has everything youn eed

You can buy gasket paper at chain stores but a good idea I learned from here, cut one out of a cereal box.

Figured it was not bad. Blasted and painted again. Looks new now. Thanks all.

Thanks for the info Charles. The parts I sprayed just a week or so ago all turned out with a bit more gloss than I anticipated given the 10% of flattening agent I added. Seems likely that what you indicated was in play. I got lucky with these parts in this case. I think the level of gloss is just a touch less than without the flattening agent. And, I think that matches the original parts well. The steering shaft and driveshaft, sprayed more than a year ago, are definitely duller, and the mustache bar is duller still. I think I will go with 10% again, let the solution sit for 10 minutes, and attempt to spray everything as I did last time. I weighed the individual parts of the paint solution (paint, hardener, reducer, and flattening agent) using a digital scale. So I should be able to reproduce my last effort (duly noting your info about not spraying too heavy). If I can replicate those results from a couple of weeks ago, I will be happy. I just don't want to end up with artificially glossy parts - in my opinion, that would be the result without any flattening agent. Also, the next time I spray paint on these parts, it will include all of the rest of them. So, I won't be doing several batches. The only reason I did this batch separately is that I had already blasted and primed them ages ago. For the rest, all the blasting, priming, and painting is ahead of me.

Lighting issues are fixed. Turned out the grounds weren’t grounded on the turn signals. IMG_7482.MOV

After knowing you have good compression, I would be looking at ignition. I know you dont want to go there, but this simple tool may give some insight as to the offending cylinder. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6?th=1