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Here is a pair of 280Z arms and blades that I got in trade from @240260280a few years ago. They are not actually correct for my 7/70 240Z but after I removed the black paint they looked good to me. The arms seem to identified left and right by the markings as these in these pic of mine. The right arm is longer, but only by half an inch. (The zero on the tape is in line with the center of the rivet, the photo distorts the view.) Hope this helps, Mike

Impressive Mike, Chat GPT even got the influence of the E-Type correct!😁

BaT owned '73 240Z on the block for charity. Lot number 100,000. Should be interesting. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-229/

jalex should put the engine specifications in his signature. Carbs, ignition system, etc. Can't remember the details. A multi-spark ignition system might help for something like this. MSD. Cheaper than an engine rebuild. The low cylinder pressures could also be caused by an adapter on the gauge. But those are very low, as stated. I think that I used an adapter once and got 125 instead of 175. 80 psi is waaaaay low. I thought the numbers were higher, in past posts. If those numbers were found with a good gauge on anybody's factory stock engine you'd say that the engine was worn out and needed a rebuild.

You're welcome. Actually I saw 280Z in the topic title. I did notice one other difference between the right and left. The end of the left has more of an angle than the right.

Hi Richie, Good fuel tank and engine bay hose supply source reference from texasz. Engine Bay Fuel Lines: From w3wilkes in 2017: I just did all my fuel lines this year with Gates E85 rated hose. 1/4" fuel rail to carbs - maybe 2 1/2 feet 5/16" supply side to fuel rail & tank to steel line - about 6 feet 3/16" return line from rail to steel line & steel line to tank - about 5 feet. These all seemed to fit perfectly. Note: The 3/16” and 5/16” tank to steel line hoses listed by w3wilkes are already included in your metric-sized JBugs “shopping list”. Since the minimum purchase is 10 feet, you will have plenty for the engine bay. You can purchase 1/4” or 6mm cloth wrapped fuel line on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192199329085?hash=item2cbff9053d:g:i4UAAOSwcgNZKeUY&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBAXKMKvoUlGz0Yf%2BSGYq1PML9tMxpmL%2B8LpNFHrvaRIJmgfLtH5SgTKv%2BFmVmNATItn8YxtYgMfAxrOGrVSUlqtYBCyYTVCW9UmXZHRBt8Vg%2BTyiUjStYub8iSxa6pAg8g4lRI2aIwBbRiXZ0W2ZWJAPO%2FFxkWNQWVDnNrIuAoRWlCgoBnlR54tz3VjQ0T24Ow4EIddBFX3meil4evwEsCkhGHEsf%2FbZf%2BcMW%2FXnF7N%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TW4cjQYQ Air Bubbles: My mistake, never thought about air bubbles from the tank/supply side. If you are seeing air bubbles coming out the bottom of the filter while the engine is running, you are taking the right steps starting from the fuel source (tank) by replacing the tank hoses and working forward to the engine. When the tank removed is removed, see if you can get a vacuum pressure reading from the fuel hard line in the rear of the car to the hard line output in the engine bay. It would be a good way to test the spliced connection and see if there is a small hole in the hard line you cannot see. Harbor Freight sells a simple, Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit for $25. You can find similar kits on eBay. It never worked for me as a brake bleeder, but the vacuum pump is useful. Alternatively, maybe you can borrow one from a friend. Wear eye protection. Blow out the hard line so the vacuum does not intake fuel or dirt. Plug the rear section (phillips screwdriver in old rubber input hose) and put a gauged vacuum pump on the rubber hose going into the fuel filter input. Pump up the vacuum and see if it holds. Not sure how much pressure you should apply, maybe 10 or 20 psi and let it sit for a while. Would assume you would see a pressure change fairly quickly. If it leaks, you have identified the leak is between the two ends. It could be a leak at the splice or in some other location in the line. I read that the steel lines pit over time and leak. I believe the replacements are stainless steel. Check your build date to purchase the correct line. If the hard line tests okay, you could place a heat wrap around the short rubber hose section and leave it be. Use metal or regular zip ties to hold in place. I have heat wrap on my speedometer cable so it does not melt from the headers. I missed a question from your initial post: Your question: Adapters anywhere other than the one on the replacement fuel filler neck in light blue? Answer: No additional adapters that I can remember. The referenced “light blue” adapter in my Z used to connect a vent hose to the fuel filler was made of thin, crushable plastic (junk). I replaced it with a hardware store hose connector. I just carried the fuel filler neck into the store and tested connectors until something fit well. You can also purchase a connector from ZCarDepot for $12. If I remember correctly, the connection is only press fit. No need for a hose clamp. Hope your project goes well. Nate

I joined this group in 2000 and sold my last 240 in 2014. I saved some old parts for some crazy reason. I really thought with the recent increase in Z values that I would never get back into them. So, I moved on to restoring and playing with some other cars. A couple of weeks ago I got an email from an old college friend. We both had 240's in college. He swapped to a vw after his second year in college. He told me that he had parked his 240 in a shed at his parents house in 1986 and never touched it again. He said his parents were moving to an assisted living facility and the car had to go. He lives across the country and doesn't have time to deal with it, and thought I may be interested. I initially said no, but I would go take a look as it was less than an hour from me, and I could help him sell it. Long story short we made a deal on it and I am back in the z scene. The car is a 72, but was modified with a rear wing and front spoiler and a sunroof! The good, is that it is very solid, has the original motor and straight panels. Bumpers are straight and in good shape. Interior is rough. My plans are a complete restoration to the original metallic brown. I remembered I had an old parts car that I let a friend have. Thinking I could use it for a donor roof, I went to check it out. Guess what.....It has a sunroof too! How could I get this unlucky? Why didn't I remember that? It did have a few other bits that I will need. So, I will be searching for a donor roof. I will post up some more pictures when I go get the car and get it home. Looking forward to catching up with the z community. It was my first online car group. I remember when we had a list serv system where we got emails back in the 90's. Here is how she has been sitting since 1986.

The test is best done with all of the plugs out so that you get good engine speed from the starter. If you have a slow cranking speed you'll get lower numbers.

Since the AI bot pretty much scans the Internet for various bits of information, it looks to me like it took those words from our club description and put some extra content around it. It's not always correct because I did run into some strange information a few times. It's worth some time to re-generate content over a few inquiries before it gets the information mostly correct. But since it simply scans the Internet, who knows what kind of real true answers you'll get from the thing.

@jalexquijano This info may add another piece to the puzzle.

If someday you aren't happy with the SU's. The next step shouldn't be efi, unless you like to tinker and like computers or are fine spending money on tuning. EFI when do right is amazing, but not easy.

Wow!

Damn, that looks familiar. @Diseazd Except the tag.

Well I did assemble the ECU for the full diy experience, but you can get preassembled ones too. I use the standard Speeduino firmware and tuned it myself on the road.

36-1 crank trigger wheel, TPS, air temp and coolant temp sensors and Speeduino ECU. FAJS 45mm ITBs, Nissan sport manifold.

Well, I actually had not thought it through, which after reading your reply....I guess I'll stick with the SU's on the vehicle. I tuned them via the factory service manual just yesterday, and they work really well. Thanks for taking the time to explain the pitfalls! If anyone else is reading this, just ask and I'll scan the SU section of the factory manual for the round tops and post the files here. I know it's all over the internets, but it never hurts to have it more places.

i must say, I switched from triple Dellortos to ITBs and fuel injection, and I found it pretty straightforward; much easier than tuning the carbs.

I would not say ITB is easy, but I am not giving up. Emtron has a tuning method for their ecu, it's called Throttle Mass Flow. Basically knowing before throttle plate and after throttle plate pressure, throttle position, plus temp, plus throttle size they can calculate air going into the motor at anytime. Having the ECU know that gives it an ability to self tune and run. I will be swapping ECUs soon.

If that plug is indeed carbon fouled instead of oil fouled then we need to see the cap and wires. Close up of inside of cap as well as exterior of cap. An Ohm meter reading of all wires from cap inside terminal to end of plug wire. Post reading for all 6.

Mowed mine and my neighbors yards. Let the 2 sleeping Zs idle in the garage for an hour, accidentally too! I forgot about them until I got my blower.

I like how they have the audacity to call that a Malibu. I drive a 2019 International medium duty commercial truck for work, and about every 3 months a fuse in the battery box blows. The fix: carry extra fuses and a box wrench. I'll bet you could buy an old Malibu from our beloved Beverly Hills auto club and it would be more reliable haha.

Keep the stereo, get rid of the car.

You know you have a real mental disorder when you decide to take the time to tear into the 240 clock to try and get it running. What an intricate mechanism. I got it running. For how long, who knows. I will check it in the morning. Merry Christmas! Video evidence: 20221220_195857.mp4