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That's not how the gauge works. As for an adapter, if you have a mechanical gauge with 1/8 NPT, you need an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00V5Q6GME and a gauge like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HRPSJSB

Just to put it out there plainly, the block threads are 1/8 BSPT. The adapter needed is the one SteveJ linked to, BSPT male into the block, 1/8 NPT female to thread in common gauge fittings.

That's ok, Lucas doesn't have any idea how they would do it either 😉

Interestingly, I have seen another variant, and it appears to be painted black - note both front and back are black: I am beginning to think that the ones with the beige back side (the one you bought in 2015) have a very thin layer of vinyl and are not painted. I think it has a vinyl with a different texture than the originals. I have two of them and was looking at them very closely last week. Doesn't look like wrinkle paint to me. I also have two originals that came with my 1971 car. The backside is bare metal and rusting like yours in the top of your pics. The vinyl is "non-backed" and very thin - like ".015 at a guess. It is a different pattern/texture for sure.

A few additions arrived a few days ago and today: Vacuum advance - my first purchase from an auction in Japan: A spare front turn signal lens and a handbrake boot (thanks Ken!) And, after a bit of straightening of one of the side brackets and some light glass bead blasting, I was amazed with this bumper I got off of eBay last week. It has less surface rust on the inside surface than the one that came with my Arizona/Colorado car that was stored for nearly 30 years (I will only be showing the end pieces and not the center bar in pics below): My car's bumper ends are the ones on the outside, the bumper off of eBay are the two on the inside (first pic), plus pictures of NOS ends (on the right in the third pic): Interestingly, the NOS parts have these "half moon cut outs in close proximity with the brackets - I have no idea why:

The oil pressure senders are notoriously inaccurate. I think thos are british standard; npt should work

The enemy of good is better. I'm not sure how things snowballed but now I'm here - and loving every minute of it. So far I've burned in: Inner /outer rocker panels on the driver's side Inner dogleg lower on the driver's side Rear driver's wheel tub Driver's floor, frame rail, toe boards, and rear quarter are next. Then onto the passenger! Question for those of you that have put your Z's on a rotisserie: I need to replace the passenger chasis rail (that connects the firewall to the radiator support). Can I do that on the rotisserie? Or would you recommend it on jackstands/a jig if I can make one?

Charles, If your fuse box is toast, consider the MSA version with the spade fuses. I installed one with my resto. It was a good match with one exception - they did not have the two large female spade terminals, supplied butt connectors instead. I replaced those with spade terminals to match with the harness. Jim

Glow shift gauges sells a tee where you can run both the factory sending unit and the manual gauge at the same time. Works great

I agree…..Most of the oil pressure gauges seem to read low, especially at idle. Unscrew the the oil filler cap on the valve cover when she’s running. You’ll make a mess if she’s got oil pressure. 🤪

I hope you will find a good suitable tools and wheels. We see the jack and chocks appeared to have the date stamp quite varied to the car’s assumed completion date. So as long as the date stamp on the tools show no later than the date of completion, it will be fine. My two 03/1970 cars have different date for the jack and chocks, HLS30-02146 has 2nd September 1969 for the jack , February 1970 for the chocks. HLS30-02156 has 5th March 1970 for the jack, March 1970 for the chocks. So we don’t have to be serious about it, especially up to early 1970. Me too, I have been dreaming about to know when my cars finished at the factory. What parts would be the last thing to be installed at the assembly lines? Wheels ? What parts would be the latest produced and stamped? My guess is the seats would be the one that being hard to be made a lot earlier than the car because otherwise Nissan Shatai had to have really big room to store and need to take care of the seats not to damage before installation. And it seems to me easy to make no need to be made well before the schedule. I know my guess doesn’t work for finding out my question. But it’s interesting. Kats The half moon cut outs of the bumpers are improved feature for wrenching I think. My 06/1972 240ZG doesn’t have the cut outs on the bumpers.

Eh.. yeah.. normally a no brainer but if your not a electrician even remotely... let someone else take a look.. If the red and green are the up and down wire of the antenna.. put those on the outer 2 connections of the 3 from the switch. The middle one gets a pos or minus depending on what your antenna needs to go up or down. See service manual or product papers from the new antenna.. (These are plus i think because the antenna used in these cars is chassis is negative.) AND..what?? 🙂 (white?) 🙂 Original the blue wire is the antenna up/down.. i think? pos. 12 v is up on that wire and 0v is down.. You need a 12v+ to the (P) contact in the middle of the switch to make it work.. (get it from the fusebox or a existing wire that was used for the old antenna.)

Pulled out a long stored 240z couple days ago, to look underneath, noticed the paper tag part number still intact in front side of muffler. It is painted black, so it definitely has been replaced at some time. Curious to opinions concerning saving the Paper tag or let it burn off with heat over time . Basically asking if ever in a judged show, would it hurt or help in “stock” class? David

Here's a thread I started because I did LED headlights without the MSA harness and had to use the anti-flicker module to initially get my lights to work. I then did the MSA harness after researching a little more and finding out how it was actually implemented which then allowed me to remove the anti-flicker module. Thought this thread might help others going LED headlights. The way Datsun powered the 3 prong plug was opposite of the way "Detroit" did it. And I have no clue how Lucas would have done it. 🤔

@Terrapin Z probably has a used one. Next time take two screwdrivers and lever the wheel off using the distributor body. Be careful with the aluminum.

Here's something for 240260280 Blue. Not music though.

finally got the turbo EFI hooked up, will work on a rad and an alternator so I can have longer test runs.

Here is my "hoard" of part number 74932 E4100 scuff plates, that cover the rocker panel vinyl and hold down the weather stripping. There is an interesting evolution of this part. The early version had 5 holes. and later versions have 3 holes. My 7/70 car originally had the 5 holes ones but when I bought my first replacement in 1979 it was the three hole type, as were the two I purchased in 1984. Also it seems that sometime after 1984 Nissan changed to a texture painted finish instead of the original texture vinyl wrapping. I have one of the new painted ones that I purchased in 2015. Below I have included closeup pictures of both to show the difference in finish and texture. Top side: Bottom side: Close up of finish/texture of the early vinyl wrapped design: Close up of finish/texture of the later texture painted design:

Just an update on the reproduction Yazaki plug leads, Thanks to Mike @zspert and @CanTechZexcellent drawings, along with a set of NOS 1971 Yazaki coil leads from Kuwait of all places, I have finished up the CAD drawings and produced some rubber pieces for testing of fit and function. In the meantime I'm sourcing the correct 7mm carbon core leads. I'll be trialing a set on my 1970 240Z this week before I screen print the original markings onto the leads in yellow as originally done. The plan is to offer a limited run of 1969 and 1970 sets initially, both those years used the same rubber connector boots and yellow markings. Once I've sourced one of the angled boots for #6 lead on the 1971, 1972 and 1973 240Z I'll offer those as well which have the white markings. Apologies for taking so long to get this sorted but sourcing original parts to replicate was the main stumbling block. Initial cost estimate is around USD$250 for a set of reproduction leads. They will be made here in the USA not outsourced to China! Interested owners so far include @hiyabrad @Zup @VaCat33 @26th-Z @240dkw @inline6 Feel free to add any comments.

Well, it's a nice thought ('23' being significant to Nissan...) but the tank will have been made in a different Nissan-related facility and then trucked - most likely as part of a batch of similar parts - to the Nissan Shatai factory in Hiratsuka. I very much doubt that would have been possible on the same day that the car was 'finished'. I'd say a few days, maybe a week or so, more likely? Most of the component parts on these cars usually seem to show production date/QC check stamps within a few weeks to a couple of months before the completion of the car.

A couple of discontinued, NOS parts in my hoard for the car I am restoring:

Thanks for the information, Alan. By the month of manufacture stamped on the door tag, and the VIN number compared with others on the Zhome registry, I figured my car was completed in the back half of the month of June, 1971. By the date stamp on my tank, I wonder if I can conclude that it was completed on that day. Seems likely. Since that day in 1971, 51 years, 6 months and 8 days have passed. Hopefully, in another 6 months, I'll have the restoration on this one completed. Wish I could find a jack and wheel chocks with the correct date stamps. And for that matter, an original spare tire with a date stamp that is before, but around that, the 26th week of 1971:

The two most judged guys I know (in a good way). @Zup @jfa.series1

How's those Datsuns running? Mine are nice and tight like they all are so I'm here for the commaradier of those Zs owners.

I thought Jeff Beck but I was wrong. Cool song anyhow.

I would carefully remove this tag and put it in a clear photo grade plastic sleeve for future reference. All the information a judge would need, if he bothered to look, is embossed on the muffler itself. The exhaust system on my car is all NOS with this very same muffler. As rare as this is, I had the whole exhaust ceramic Jet-Hot coated in the original bare metal finish to preserve it through a life's worth of heat cycles.