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Finally, after dozens of orders, I struck gold (or yellow) with the magnet.

I have one, it is for sale for 1 billion dollars or trade for a puppy and world peace.🤪

In fact it seems it was restricted to the 1970 RAC Rally and 1971 Monte Carlo Rallye batches of Works cars, as the 1971 East African Safari Rally batch and onward batches of cars didn't have the cut-away finisher panel holes. There was clearly - as is so often seen on these cars - an evolutionary process going on here. The very first batch of cars sent overseas - for the 1970 RAC Rally - featured the cut-away finishers, but not the extra self-tappers. Instead they had threaded studs inserted where the normal fixing screws would thread into (those pesky...) captive nuts in the plastic lamp housings, and butterfly nuts were used to hold them in place. This allowed the lamp units to be removed fairly quickly without having to take off the finishers: Obviously the 1971 Monte Carlo Rallye batch (an event where rear quarter damage was more likely) improved on this with the addition of spring nuts on the body and self-tappers passing through the plastic lamp housings, so it was no longer necessary to fiddle around undoing butterfly nuts inside the car. Better! However, for the 1971 Safari they reverted to uncut rear finishers. The finishers were secured by self-tappers (rather than the stock plastic rivets) so could at least be removed fairly easily. That area of the car was a good place for storage. They tended to store the onboard jack near there, as well as a host of spares, ropes, jack base, shovel etc housed inside a fabricated pocket. LOTS of storage on these cars:

The main part of the damper should have a rubber ring molded in the middle of it. Inspect it for damage. Its possible it is torn or out of balance and that's what destroyed the seal.

They should've used your's for that toolbox magnet Mr Arnett!

Pretty sure this would be termed as a two-piston design, common to S30's. A single piston is common to most recent cars with a floating caliper design.

I do believe you can get a repair sleeve for that. This https://www.ebay.com/itm/385131109922?hash=item59ab9a5e22:g:dNkAAOSwuu9jLVv1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Mmzd8Qx%2BQgKiBCruMq60Ch39qBTre9opXhacRBBgAFVTA4WUV8n9h6E1AHSm71h9%2BzzHHKBzOSkpC3OxETALPdXZcXzTBdUNWYoSuaWQdpiJKPY0QpAvLNNHW7Q%2Fs2fe82M6Y76I3PvmnDrSK4Hk87FrDreNeq2vphqHrt87AXOITO7FFQthAEWned0fpKN5omlIQ5nfNIGK%2BVwA%2FXJoy9q4xwZ6uY3L1bks7RjyCUceDxM1KmgWkoKB9kZPA97q%2FK07Ky%2Ba1X%2Bd8GMQWYQ5fwGy%2BERSyij%2Bo4Vpkgzg2tQICwWIjkVeFU9gt5nyfTX%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMzPLGqIdh I have used these with great results

If you put it on backward, you can't get the oil pump drive shaft to mesh with the crank gear

Thanks. I've found the inked on numbers on the needles are not very durable. Wouldn't surprise me at all if they were illegible or even gone completely. That pic I posted above is the best pic I have of the number. I've got other pics, but that is the most readable I've found to date. And one wipe with a strong solvent (like carb cleaner), and poof... It's gone.

You've probably already figured it out by now, but there are 4 wing nuts holding them in. Suggest getting speedo in place first making it easier to reconnect speedometer cable.

Pics? Definitely not factory but could probably help with what you have on the car now. Two sets of Toyota truck calipers will bolt directly on.

That's John Taddonio's ride. He's in the Rochester NY area.

Off the top of my head, I seem to remember not seeing anything, but the needles are kept with the stripped down carbs. Will be a while until I get a chance to look, now in France for work....

And I have seen a 240Z that no matter how much the gap and dwell were adjusted, it ran like crap. After the Pertronix was installed, the owner said he couldn't remember the last time the car ran so well. There are two sides to the coin.

The 2+2 NA ZX and the ZXT both had a 240mm clutch the earlier and 2+0 NA ZX had a 225mm clutch. That kit reads to me like it fits both. To me that would mean Z Car Source was selling all 240mm clutches in the "kit" as they will fit the earlier cars, but not the other way around. IE: a 225mm clutch would not work well in the 2+2 or Turbo ZX. If you are dropping the transmission again ^^ it would be another item to check, 225mm vs 240mm. I put a 240mm in my 70 240, and used the ZX 2+2 collar, works fine.

Here's a fun little detail seen on the early cars. The rear light pods were affixed from the rear of the car (sometimes using sheet metal screws?), so they could be removed from behind and outside. I imagine there were several reasons for this: surely, to facilitate the changing of a bulb without having to open and unload the trunk. Perhaps also: to provide an easy way to swap out the entire assembly, should it be damaged during the rally. I'm not entirely confident that the lights were always affixed with screws, as I have not seen them affixed this way on another car. For example, the included picture of an earlier car does not appear to have screws, but it does have the quick-change rear panel installed. From what I can see with my car: they appear to be original to the car, or at least installed in-period. That said, it's possible that the lights were held in place using other means, such as being just loosely glued in place, and could therefore be pulled off by hand, without tools. But this is just a guess. From what I can tell, all the rally cars campaigned in 1970 and 1971 had this feature. I don't exactly know with what car the practice ceased, but around late 1971, Nissan stopped fitting a rear panel which could accommodate this feature. I assume they also eliminated the "external-change" feature along with it, but perhaps they just eliminated the custom rear panel. Another possibility is that the feature remained, but that Nissan perhaps altered the lenses to be removable from the housing. Again, this is just speculation. If someone is willing to go tug on the rear lenses of Nissan's cars and see what happens, perhaps we can get a few answers!

Here is a prime example of something different that comes up on Yahoo that some would like on their Nissan, that is likely not to have been sold outside of Japan?; https://www.jauce.com/auction/p1068525429

My experience was understandable. The site was mostly in English on the liberal side of grammar. I won an auction, paid for it with PayPal with the understanding that shipping fees would be additional and calculated later. I then got an e-mail to the auction site asking for shipping payment to the broker, in this case, Jauce. I made another PayPal payment. Two days later, I got an e-mail from Jauce telling me what the packing and international shipping fee would be. Another PayPal payment. Jauce confirmed shipment and gave me a tracking number. About ten days later, the package arrived. Total about two weeks from the time I won the auction. When I surf the Japan auctions, the translation to English is on and in the upper left corner of the page, there is a statement about international shipping is included. Many pages say no international shipping so make sure you see it.

SteveJ, I agree with 26th-Z, been shipping parts from Japan by using proxy bidding companies for years. By far not a cheap option for those hard/NLA parts you want, but if you want, got to pay. Finding parts in Japan that other parts of the world didn't get, either NOS, or parts offered by loads of aftermarket sellers, again old stock, is totally worth it.

Steve, That auction was a Yahoo auction brokered by Jauce - Nichido Logistics which is an agent for international shipping. They charge a fee, of course. My latest purchase through them was for a $11.24 item that cost me a total of $48.93 to get it. DSL is usually the shipper and other than the cost, I found the service real good. Jauce sends e-mails periodically to announce local delivery, packaging and shipping with a tracking number. It works but it is expensive.

Is this an auction that people outside Japan can use, or does it require an agent?

These the ones? https://www.jauce.com/auction/x1060665150

I got some new twin hose clamps for fuel lines from Yahoo Japan, a pack of 10 I think, last year, let me see if I can find a link...

Here is my recent post on this topic, all new braided cover fuel hoses and valve cover breather hose - all from Belmetric. And yes... twin wire hose clamps were used for all the fuel lines. Agree, the very small ones are hard to find.

There’s a good source for braided hoses, BelMetric in Ma. All different sizes. https://belmetric.com/m5x10-braided-flennor-multifuel-hose-rhm5braid/

Here is a photo of my 5/72 low miles, very original 240z...prior to starting my refresh project.