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Thanks Gavin, xs10shl, Namerow, I will think and think before starting the repair job . A good thing is I have a very bad 240Z dashboard to start with , I can do anything and no worries if I do stupid things. Here is an example which was repaired recently by Tasaka san . He is offering to teach me how to. But as Tasaka san said , he is still learning and seeking what is better and this example is just a test bed. We have to wait until we see something happens on the surface . Or hopefully don’t see any defects after passing one year, two years, and more , that will be wonderful. Kats

Yeah, I hear that at home a lot, too...except without the thanks at the end. *sigh*

I called (he supplied gave me a cell phone number, I used a cell phone), response was "google cell phone person not available", left a message. my message was I suggested he list on ebay, as I would not want to take advantage of him. Explained his low post count as my reason for not wanting to deal directly. I like to give people the benefit of the doubt. But I also know you cannot con an honest man so ebay is my way of being honest. he was getting back to me pretty quick, not so fast after I recommeded ebay.

Try calling Midwest Transmission https://www.midwesttrans.com/product-information/nissan-fs5w71-5-speed-manual-transmissions They specialize in Nissan transmissions. They did my 81 280zx trans and it turned out great. They may have or make the part.

I'm not on your list, but this is something I've been asked to look into before. The UK market documentation (FSM, R-Drive parts list & L26 Engine Service Manual) show that three variants of carburettor were used between August 1973 and 1978. They were the HMB46W-1A, 1B & 1C. The R-Drive parts list shows all the component parts and part numbers for the preceding HJG46W type, but not for the HMB46W. And if you look in the L26 Engine Service Manual it warns strictly against dismantling the piston chamber, piston spring, piston weight, suction piston and needles. They are very firm about it. I guess they didn't want mechanics to mess with them. Possibly because of emissions-related calibration worries? There may well be a document which gives the part numbers for the needles, but I haven't seen it. Sorry.

Use cord, not string. Sash cord, or clothesline, in a diameter just smaller than the diameter of the spark plug hole, about 1/4”. You look for visual signs of exhaust leaks, i.e. carbon coming out around connections and mating surfaces. With the engine running, listen. If you hear a leak, it can be pinpointed using a length of 1/2” heater hose (I have a piece hanging from the handle on my toolbox just for listening for exhaust and intake leaks, and other pesky noises).

Short video on me going to build the rear rotisserie mounts but then changing plans to repairing the rear valance but then changing plans to removing all the panels. Gotta go with the flow I guess….

Ignore the bright links. They only properly line up every eleven revolutions of the cam (every 22 rotations of the crank).

We had a '92 Camry also. Mrs. Racer put several hundred thousand miles on it. I did all the maintenance except the timing belt. I despise front wheel drive cars, and despise working on them even more. But. A longtime friend is also a mechanic, and has worked at just about every Toyota dealership in the Puget Sound region, so he is well versed in them. After 25 years of beating his brains out doing the flat rate game he opened up a shop of his own. I asked if he wanted a timing belt job. Knowing we had the Camry, he eagerly agreed, $200, plus the belt. I asked if I needed to schedule it and drop the car off. He said just stop by early on a Saturday and he'd do it while I waited. I asked how long it would take, and he proudly proclaimed 20 minutes. Sure enough, I arrived early Saturday, pulled the car in, he went to work, and 20 minutes later he was starting the car to back it out the door. He changed the belt three more times before we gave the car to the son and his wife.

I have this list. I had a better one but lost it and the page is no more. I should have saved a screen shot. Seems the 3:70 was short lived in the early ZX. I expect my car will have 3:90's R200 I'll find out when I get that far in. I am not saying this is 100% accurate, but my findings have not found any errors. I have the 810 Maxima 3:70 R180 in my car now. I have the Auto 3:54 too and 3:36 R180's I picked some 720 truck front's (1) 3:90 and (2) 4:11's I have never found the 4:37 or 4:62 all R180

I have resorted to the use of lacquer thinner for the final wash after mechanical removal of undercoating, and it works very very well. However, it’s as dangerous as gasoline in-terms of the its flammability. I ONLY use it with the doors wide open and a breeze blowing through. AND with full face organic rated breathing protection. Bit chilly around here in January…… Diesel fuel is cheaper and safer and just as effective, though messier and involves disposal of rags that don’t dry out through evaporation. Let’s be careful out there and do our best to ensure we can continue to do this hobby for as long as possible with the least side affects. /end fatherly rant…..

Finally got it all back together! Had a few issues, nothing serious. My horn and dome light aren't working, I'll try to fix those later. I did have to run a new separate wire for the tach out to the coil, so tach works fine now. And I broke my glove box door! 😡 While installing I latched it close without taking the time to adjust the latch correctly. Of course it got stuck and I had to resort to prying it open with some plastic pry tools. As soon as it popped open it promptly broke those plastic flex hinges. I figure I could just get another off eBay, or order a 3rd party metal replacement inner door, until I saw the prices. My first thought was to use some small steel hinges to fix, but that seemed a bit heavy-handed. So, I ordered some plastic flex hinges off of Amazon. Original is also a flexible plastic hinge, which I'm surprised lasted ~50 years. I cut new hinges to approximate length of the original hinge. Used a utility blade to flatten out the area where the door side hinge adhesive will stick, 3 places. I pried open the channel so the hinges would fit inside, but not too far that it won't act like a vice when removing tape from adhesive and installed. This will make the channel about 1/16" thicker than original, and I did use slightly longer screws when installing on the dash. I removed the tape over the hinge adhesive and assembled. I did pry open the channel so I could slide hinge into position. And I marked the horizontal alignment to match old position, then glued door in place. Here's the back side. The old broken side of the hinge, which use to fit inside the channel, is not used, on the shelf. Side view of hinge. Installed. Too bad those hinges don't come in black. One other thing I did was epoxy a washer on the back side of my new map light bezel, so hopefully it gives the screw something to push against and won't crack again. Done, except for the dome light and horn. I'm very happy with the way new da$h fit, although it was quite a project to install it. Car has collected a lot of dust while sitting, time to go blow the dust off it!

I'm not sure this is the original design, but I found it: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?gclid=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaOsvTVxlScfZk2xUsLc4O6mkd_Q5sS7ms7OU0M_B2SSQM1VxT8isBhoCoUMQAvD_BwE&target=runWheelSearch&wheelMake=American+Racing&wheelModel=AR62+Outlaw+II&wheelFinish=Silver+Machined+w%2FClearcoat&initialPartNumber=AR625762SDC&GCID=C13674x012-wheel&KEYWORD=wheels_American_Racing_AR62_Outlaw_II_Silver_Machined_w%2FClearcoat_Wheels_15_In_15x7_50&code=yes&autoMake=Oldsmobile&autoModel=Toronado&autoYear=1985&autoModClar=&checkVehicle=&ef_id=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaOsvTVxlScfZk2xUsLc4O6mkd_Q5sS7ms7OU0M_B2SSQM1VxT8isBhoCoUMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!537118804928!!!u!293946777986!&gclsrc=aw.ds

The test I suggested still applies. If you see voltage on the black/white wire with the key off, that's your problem. If there isn't voltage on the black/white wire, then it's on to testing with an ammeter, but I'll supply those directions if necessary. As for the ammeter gauge dancing, it means that the alternator is cutting its output. Make sure you have enough tension in the belt. What is your idle speed set to on the car? What is the voltage to ground at the yellow wire on the T connector at the alternator? The last thing I can think of is a possible issue with the voltage regulator in the alternator.

"I'll take Fraud for $1000, Alex." "The answer is, 'Only two posts and BOTH are responding to a parts wanted ad.'" "What is the hallmark of a scammer on Classiczcars.com?" "That is correct, and you retain control of the board."

The ones that I have to hand don't, no. But then I simply might not have the one document that does. @dutchzcarguyhas just shown that the suffixes went up to '10' at least, but I have no idea when these supersessions were applied. I think @RIP260Z is your man for this. Ian has done some good research on the HMBs which shows them to be a good design, unworthy of the 'boat anchor' reputation. Hopefully he will contribute.

Thanks Mark, so the gage or gauge is the metering instrument on the dash and also the thickness of say steel plate. I never know what one means with 10 gauge steel or wire or so... talk in mm!! (Millimeters!!) THAT i understand hahaha..

Working safely seems to increase along with our age. Looking back over more years than seem possible, I thank the LORD for my continued health and safety. I will be giving the lacquer thinner a try next week. The project is in an open sided car port so that is always helpful with the resulting fumes, dust, debris, etc in this type of project. Good safety reminder. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.

Yeah, I agree with that. If someone told me my rod bearings looked like that, I would not even take the caps off.

I see what you did there. 😁

Those repairs look fabulous. You are correct longevity is really important

If you could find a metal, or maybe even plastic, sleeve that fits the hole reasonably well and that would match a (reverse) bit on the inside, that would make it a little easier. Like said above, it will probably back it right out once it bites. That or pull the timing cover Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice!

In the States the 280ZX changed ratios in 1980. According to the FSM's. 1979 had the older wide ratio 5 speeds, 1980 had the new close ratio. 1980 also had the odd 0.773 overdrive (although I got one from a 1981 car, not sure how it got in there). So a generic "280ZX" remark can be confusing. If you want to see something wild check out all of the differential ratios and vehicle combos for 1979. They kind of went nuts. I've never seen a 3.7 long nose R200 but according to the book they were available. Even the 3.364 R180 is out there, supposedly. And, the 4 speed is still shown.

My first job after finishing school was at a Nissan dealer called RJ Corbett Nissan back in 1984. I worked in the transmission, clutch and brakes team. Mostly 160Y, 180B, Bluebirds, Skylines and 720 trucks. We never had the 280Z, only the 260Z with the FS5C71B 5 speed. All the 280ZX 2+2 we worked on had the wide ratio 5 speed with 4 warner type synchros and, to us, an odd ball 5th synchro. The coupes had the close ratio. There was a website about 10 years ago with some patchy information about it, but it's long gone. If I come across a 2+2 and check underneath, they all have the speddo bolt up, dual ears and no reverse lock out. I can't confirm it 100%, but all my experience points in that direction.

Sometimes an exhaust leak can sound mechanical. Nissan actually provided a way to monitor chain wear. The notch and groove. Some aftermarket sprockets don't have the notch though.

Italian tune up did the trick! #6 at 155, but now #3 is at 125, hmmm seem odd as it was fine. I suspect I just need to do some more hard driving. Got video of the results (otherwise it did not happen). Same deal on #3 Exhaust valve (wet test no change, blowing smoke from smoldering rag out tail pipe at 90psi from leak down test). I am a beliver in the Italian tune up now. I would take it up to 5500-6000 and some hard pulls thru the gears maybe 15 miles out on the Tpike. So the head will stay on for a while. also managed to break my antenna mast coming into the garage, not sure how. will be posting in the classified for a donor...

Guage doesn't exist in American English, but just to complicate or simplify matters, gage is another acceptable way to spell it.

I had a weird tick like that once, i mean i still got weird ticks, but that one is gone....

Just a short video on my dashboard tear down. If you’ve done the job before don’t bother but may make a good reference for some who haven’t. This footage is over a year old now, finally got round to editing, amazing how much two kids and a wife can bleed you of spare time. I’m trying a different style of video with better editing and less talking in front of the camera (which I hate) and more narration. Similar to jethro bronner who does some very nice Alfa Romeo videos. It allows me to get more work done as I don’t have to do 100 takes trying to articulate something and I can write out a script of what I want to say in the editing process instead of trying to make it up on the spot. Any constructive criticism is welcomed.

Nevermind - I just looked back at the post & saw the oil pressure sending unit pic. One wire should ground the gauge. I'll keep trying when I get a chance. I'm currently suffering from the after effects of shingles, well over a year after getting it. Sharp stabbing pains in my chest & side every few minutes or hour or so (it varies). It's put me WAY behind in my work on customer's cars, so I have to work on them before my projects when I CAN work. If you had chicken pox as a kid, GET THE SHINGLES VACCINE NOW! It's WAY worse than anything you read about it & the "permanent nerve damage" talked about apparently means a LIFETIME of INTENSE pain & suffering. Of course the doctors don't care how much pain you're in these days, & have refused to prescribe any effective pain meds. :-( Thanks again, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"