Leaderboard

That's a really good point there. You set the base timing using one of those two modules, but there's really no guarantee that the output timing from the other one will be the same. Could simply be that the propagation delay through the modules are different, or it could be something way more significant than that. I know that GM put a "cranking mode" base timing setting into a lot of their later modules used as a bootstrap mode to fire the ignition before the computer was able to take over. Now that's for the later modules that used an ECM to control the timing after the engine was running, but they may have put something like that in the earlier simpler non-ECM controlled units too. And if they did, the question is... How does that relate to the rotational position of the VR pickup titts? And now that I'm thinking about it, I thought of something else... I know the earlier modules (up to 78) fire directly when they receive a pulse from the VR pickup, and they fire on the rising side of the VR signal. Many (most?) of the rest of the later modules fire on the falling edge? I don't remember what GM did, but I will look into it. I should have thought of that before. Arrgh. Bottom line is put a timing light on it and see if you're OK. You might have to pick one style as primary and the other as 'backup only".

test fit the glove box door on the new dash once installed on the frame BEFORE reinstalling the dash. You may need some tweeking to get it to open and close smoothly, much easier with the dash out.

Now I removed the cap from the original dash. To remove the various knobs: Odometer reset: small set screw at speedo end, and pull knob off, remove cable. Hazard switch: push knob in, twist 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Lighter: 1" socket works to remove nut on back. Panel light knob: pull off, remove 2 screws from back. Luckily there wasn't too much adhesive holding the cap on, and it took about an hour of carefully prying it off the dash without cracking it. I'll probably sell the cap eventually. Once the screws that held the dash to the metal were removed, it slid right off.

@CanTechZ Unfortunately lighting can play such a huge role in how things like this look, especially in pictures. It's really hard to do comparisons with one variety and another. If you can get your hands on a can of that Rust-Oleum 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist, give it a try on a test piece and see what you think. I had my taillight panels completely done, clear matte coat and all, with the Ford Dark Shadow and I was never completely satisfied. That Ford color is really good, but I think the 261413 is better. Give it a shot if you can find it. I bought some very thin aluminum sheet and I use that as my test coupons. I used to do it with cardboard, but the textured surface of the cardboard did not give accurate results.

Replaced the 2015 Pathfinder before the CVT failed. Picked up this new Frontier truck that's a better match up with the Datsun.

Okay, I get what you’re saying and yes it appears the timing has changed with the HEI on. Warmed it up and put my timing light on and it was off about 3-4 degrees (retarded) at 800 rpm. I reset it to 10 deg and she’s now even running smoother, I took it out for a 30 miles drive and had no issues. Well, I thought I had one but I’m coming to believe my temp guage or sender it’s very accurate. I bought a radiator cap with a thermometer in it as a back up and it was showing much cooler than the temp guage. Took my son through a drive through for lunch and them temp gauge really creeped past mid range. I pulled over and the cap on the radiator was reading about 180 ish. So I’m missing the lower half of a fan shroud and don’t currently have the lower skid plate installed, not sure if that’s a factor. I’ve kept it off until I take the car to a shop to make sure the alignment is good. I did it the good of’ boy method. Eye ball it while drinking a beer, but she tracking perfectly. Maybe I should drink beer more when working on the car. It got even higher than this pic my son took.

A friend installed a Pertronix Ignitor I into his 240Z, and he contacted me for help since he could cruise fine at low RPM, but whenever he tried to get on the gas, it would stumble and cough. He thought it might be a coil impedance issue so he tried various coils but kept having the same issue (and sometimes even worse performance). Since he has been wrenching on Z cars since the mid 80s, I figured he had gone down the wrong rabbit hole at some point. I loaded up the rescue wagon and headed over to his place. The first thing I did was connect an oscilloscope to see if I could pick up an obvious miss. The scope left me with the impression that something wasn't happening right as higher RPMs. (I might recreate his problem on my 240Z and see if the scope shows the same thing. If it does, I'll make a video to help people with diagnostics.) I looked at the resistance to chassis ground at the distributor. The resistance was nearly zero, so it wasn't a grounding problem. From some old threads here, I thought the vacuum advance might be an issue. Unfortunately his hand pump would let me pump up enough vacuum to check, so that was tabled. Next was inspecting the distributor cap. The contacts were clean as was the rotor. So I moved to inspecting the posts where the wires land. The wire on the center post wasn't seated far enough down, so I pushed that in. Then I pulled off each wire one by one, starting with #3 and working clockwise. It was good, #5 was good, #1 was good, #4 was good, but #2 was not. The boot was almost off the wire. There was no way it was getting a good spark. I positioned the wire properly in the boot and re-seated it. Then I checked #6. It was good. I looked at the scope again. It looked better, but I didn't shoot video. After my friend fixed a fuel leak at the banjo fitting on the rear carb, (The fitting wouldn't seal, so he replaced it.) he took it for a spin. He said there was no hesitation, and it pulled hard past 5,500 RPM. The moral of the story is that when you can't figure out what's wrong, step back and go over everything from the beginning. Sometimes you have to eliminate each and every variable until you have the solution. I love getting another Z back on the road.

They were titled as whatever the Dealer put on the original application for a new title at the local DMV, in any of the 50 States. In the 50's, 60's and even into 1970 many Import Car Dealers held their Model Year consistent with whatever was common practice in the country of origin. Many of the early Datsun Dealers were already Import Car Dealers when they took on the Datsun Brand. So they followed their normal practice when applying for a new car Title. VW for example held their model year consistent with the calendar year, as did Porsche and Jaguar as I recall. So if a VW was produced on say 31 Dec. 1960 it was titled as a 1960 VW no matter when it was sold, if the VW was produced on 3 Jan 1961 it was titled as a 1961 VW (even though there was no real difference between them). At that time, part of the reasons given to buy a VW Bug, was that there was no "Planned Obsolescence” due to changing the model completely every year as was done by the American Mfg.s. in the 50’s and 60’s. If you drove a Bug it always looked like a new one! The downside to holding the model year consistent with the Calendar Year for the Import Car Dealers, was that their “new models” arrived at the US Dealerships about three months after the First of the Year. That was 5 or 6 months after the New Models from the American Manufactures went on sale. Model Years also affected Resale Values later in the market - as cars depreciated year by year - a car tilted as a 1960 VW was worth less in the resale market than one titled as a 1961 model. (in the eyes of the banks that loaned the money - as well as the customers buying them). Over time, with increased competition and new laws/regulations from the Federal Government; Domestic and Import Car Sales practices started to normalize. Nonetheless today looking back 40 or 50 years everything looks abnormal.

Well when typing in a small phone with big fingers and “auto correct” turned on mistakes are made. I🤓

This is the information Fujitsubo has listed on their product description for the EPU system: Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15413 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019149 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Outlet shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diamet er - EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15415 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019156 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Model Type - R200 Diff compatible model Outlet Shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diameter EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 --- This is what I found on JDM Car Parts: Part number: #15-510-15418 Fujitsubo EPU Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust System for Datsun 240Z / Nissan Fairlady Z S30 L6 Engine L6 L20-L28 Engine Headers: 6-2 Type / 45mm at 6 and 50.8mm at 2 Exhaust pipe: 45 mm to 50.8 mm 50.8 mm at Straight section This system is for triple carburetor set up Designed to work with lowered suspension set up. Works with RHD / LHD car Works with R200 Differential set up Comes with insert for O2 Sensor set up (O2 sensor is not included) Caution: It does not come with manifold gasket (Stock manifold gasket works with this headers) Caution: Exhaust hangers are Not included. You need to use stock hangers --- This is what I found on RHD: Fairlady Z S30 GS30 HS30 2-Seater Part Num: 050-15415 Series: Exh Performance Unit EPU Legalis Material: Stainless Steel (SUS304) Tip Type: Slash (W Vertical) Tip Diameter (mm): 50.8 X 2 Pipe Diameter (mm): 50.8 --- This is what I found on Blackhawk Japan: Series Name: EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (LEGALIS) Product Number - 050-15415 Compatible Car - FAIRLADY Z 2-SEATER S30 Product Description Body model: -S30 Engine model: L20 Year: S44.11 to S50.9 (1969.11 to 1975.9) Tailtip Style: φ50.8 Slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter : EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual Fitting Parts: 080-35098 Plate Gasket × 3 M8 × 35mm Bolt × 9 M8 Spring Washer × 12 M8 nut x 12 M8 x 25mm bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 dedicated metal fitting (band type φ50.8) x 3 S30 dedicated bracket [A] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [B] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel Wire (l250) x 2 Peak Power: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 95dB Peak Torque: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 92dB Proximity Exhaust Noise: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 89dB Remarks Safety standard compliant product 2-seater only MT car only Low-down car compatible R200 differential compatible EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions) set product Not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts Common to Solex, Weber cab, and SU cab vehicles Genuine SU cab vehicles Heat shield shield required Vehicles with genuine air cleaner box cannot be installed Notes: Images are for illustration purpose only. Actual product may vary. --- So it looks like 15413 is for an r180 differential and 15415 is for an r200 differential, but the information is so inconsistent from one retailer to another that I am not sure about any of it. I don't know if 15418 is a typo or what. I see exhaust hangers in the illustration and think that's what the brackets in the parts inventories are, but who knows. Another thing I am finding is HUGE swings in price, from $1,404.46 to $3,299.00, and that is just within the EPU versions. I reached out to JDM Car Parts but he hasn't responded yet. I have also reached out to Fujitsubo and Greenline Motorsports. Maybe one of them will respond.

Yes! Super helpful. I found a set of copper lines and a dryer on eBay and was thinking of using them for a vintage air setup, but couldn’t see how they went on. Not sure if I’m going that route or not because I’m concerned about leaks, but at least now I know where the lines go.

Does this help? Mine is a 78 280z

Reach out to Alan Poindexter at https://vintagezparts.com/ He focuses a lot on Z31s.

This is a black rubber strip that goes around the front windshield. It holds the chrome molding trim strip that also goes around the windshield. This is done with small clips. My body man who is replacing the windshield has the clips but not the strip. He can use the old one but isn't sure that it will look good reusing it. If you have any ideas, I'll be grateful. Thank you, DD

These are challenging times for business and the economic future in the short term is not good. I have both friends and family that own small business and they all same the exact same thing. My brother built 4,000 homes this past decade and had decided to pull the plug as the housing market is set to get crushed soon. With the looming 1.0 rate hike next week next week it will only worsen. Spoke to a close friend yesterday who says he’s probably going to shut down his business and layoff all his employees because the customers are no longer there and his prices are increasing so fast he cannot stay ahead of it and customers are pissed off at him. The challenges are becoming insurmountable to many small business and there is three things I hear over and over from all of them, 1. Cannot find good workers 2. The cost of doing business has increased sharply and they have to pass those costs to the customers which is driving them away. 3. More hostile governmental policies and tax burdens 4. The cost to borrow money has increase sharply and they don’t want to take on the risk. I am seeing this where I work. We just announced we are closing 90 brick and mortar locations in the US, we have stopped hiring and profits are way off estimates. We are operating fewer flights and the stock has plunged 19%. We have seen a serious reduction is global package deliveries. This company is a bellwether for the health of the nation’s economy. All signs point to “storm clouds gathering”. I’m sad to see this vendor close. This is what comes up if you go to their website. Time to buckle up! https://www.cnbc.com/2022/09/15/fedex-ceo-says-he-expects-the-economy-to-enter-a-worldwide-recession.html

According to the Date of Mfg. on the cars - production started in 08/72 and ended in 08/73. Highest VIN for 1973 found so far is HLS30 172767.

IMG_6800.MOV I can’t see any markings nor signs which indicate PZR under/inside the dashboard. No drawing on the bracket of the steering post. Probably, PZR was only few at the assembly line , so no need to distinguish from other cars ? Takeuchi san took of the glove box , and put it on the new dashboard. I checked it but I can’t find any white chalk markings. I have been sourcing sports option parts for my Z432. Pistons and other engine parts as well as tachometer, seats , steering wheel , etc. Some of them were hand crafted to replicate using a genuine parts as a donor. Put the parts for track , remove them for daily use . Kats

Boy, diving into the ins and outs of the 73 model year 240 is a little like trying to get across a mine field safely. According to the service bulletin - pictured - the 73 model year starts in the 9th month of 1972. However the parts micro fisch section that illustrates the new for 73 induction system and my recollection says it really started in the 7th month of 72. Here's where it really gets confusing. 1973 was the first year for Z car heater control illumination. However, again, the micro fisch parts section on the heater says that the new system started in the 8th month of 72. Which is it??? I have an interesting, at least to me, story about the first 73 Z that was sold by the Datsun dealer which was employing me at the time - but that's for another time. Also, 73 510, the last of the line and THE BEST.

Thanks Gavin, HS30 blue on blue is very rare as your observation. How about other color combinations? Green with Tan , white with red , etc . Buy the way , my understanding is up to August 1973 , lime yellow, green metallic and brown metallic are only for export market . Is this applicable for HS30 territory? Grand Prix Maroon is only for Fairlady Z series. Oh , Universal blue ‘903’ was not available for Fairlady Z series . Kats

Frenchie, I hope you don’t mind me commenting here - happy to delete if you object. Before buying Sean’s full Race / Sport system, I ran the MSA header with 2.5” back to a turbo muffler on both my L26 and it’s replacement hot L28. Due to a shotgun sounding misfire I managed to utterly blow the baffles and Sean very kindly and speedily (at his cost!!) sent me his Classic muffler to help me out of a hole and able to get to an event I really wanted to go to. The classic is a straight through (spot the Z I worked hard to get into the pic!! [emoji12]) I was absolutely jaws on the floor at how much power had previously been left on the table. She now rushed to 6.7k RPMs rather than topping out at 5.6k ish. I like the classic raspy sound of the turbo muffler however this one is deeper and more TVR / V8 burbley. But the system as it was still droned like hell between 2.2-3krpm and was exhausting on the motorway. I then bought Sean’s full race / sport on the same engine and set up. The quality is great. Here’s the headers side-by-side for comparison - a very sexy beast!!! The fit under the car is tight but a near tailored fit. Don’t have a decent photo to show except the one below. At first I was worried about how close to the gearbox it was but NEVER has there been a single clonk even with some serious thrashing on bumpy fast country roads. The power at the top end just opened up to another level - I’ve had to add a limit on my 123 ignition at 6.8k rpm as the engine now sprints into the mid to high 7k region and I don’t want to bust something as I’m not running forged pistons and rods. I rarely need to cross 6k - unless I want to really upset an N/A 911 or Impreza STi! ;) The sound is very nicely muted below 3.5ish maybe 3.8k rpm but anything over that is totally grin inducingly vocal! With the windows down and over 6krpm with a barrier or wall on the driver’s side, I dare say it’s a bit of a nascar howl! Absolutely ZERO resonance or drone on the motorway now or where it existed on the old system. Here’s my first drive after fitting (headphones on, sound up) ... Here’s a much longer one with some thrashing and some cruising while I was tuning carbs (yes that AFR was all over the place with the wrong needles). The window was slightly open so the iPhone microphone struggled a bit to capture the fullness of the bass in the sound track ... My buddy (same orange car as Sean’s pics) with an L26 has the exact same package but with a JDM muffler. Driving our cars back to back was a hoot and showed that on the smaller engine the JDM was louder at the top end than the classic muffler on mine with the bigger engine (he’s running a 275 degree cam I think versus my 270) - a bit raspier on his and bassier on mine. He has a beautifully progressive power band with this set up. I did, for personal reasons, want to see if I could make her a little quieter and Sean being a beautiful gentleman (no matter what they say [emoji12]) has kindly sent over the track muffler to test. Sadly I’ve been utterly buried for the last few months and not had a moment to do anything but store it or even to be able to see my car! It’s a straight through but with a much bigger box than the classic so it should be quieter but flow the same. Will report back once I get her on.

Nope, the point I am making is ALL HUMANS on the planet can trace their ancestors to Africa!!! Very profound unification.

Ouch!! They owe me $!