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Looking at the wiring diagrams: For the 280Z, I would think the grey wire would connect to the blue wire that goes back to the TIU and tach.

I called the and spoke to a Pertronix Rep today on the phone to ask questions about their Digital HP Ignition unit. The rep was super nice , very knowledgeable and said the ignition unit should work just fine on the Z. I was worried about the tachometer having indication problems but he assured me there a 2 different wires to use based on what type of signal the tach gets. Worst case he said call us and we’ll walk you through it and find a solution if in the rare circumstance it doesn’t work. I was impressed with the guy’s knowledgeable and amazed I could call a company and within 2 mins be on the phone with a tech rep. He also said the product was released in 2016 and they spent 18 months engineering this unit after asking what customers wanted. He verified is was built in the USA. I don’t expect all the components to be made in the USA. When I was 21 I worked for Bose, the speaker manufacturer. I worked at the factory in Framingham, MA. Almost all the electrical sub-components were from Asia but we made the speakers right there in MA. That’s not unusual in the electronics industry. So I have one of their boxes on the way as well as a new .32 ohm coil. He said it was designed for that coil in mind and that the tach signal won’t come from the coil anymore but the ignition unit itself so i should not have any tach issues. I plan to put it in the passenger footwell where the stock Ignition Unit went. Safer to be in the cabin vs the engine. I’ll report to you all my findings, detail the install and all the pros and or cons I run into.

What? You think that was an accident? What took you so long?

AGC fuses are 0.25" diameter. ATO fuse blades are 0.025" thick. Buy 0.25" OD brass tubing at hobby shop, slit it the long way with a 0.020 slit, cut into AGC fuse minus 0.1" lengths Press the fuse blades into the slit of the little itty bitty tubie thingy. Should be tight press fit. Make slit smaller if 0.020 is too loose. Repeat for other blade. Ensure space between tubes and total width = AGC fuse width. Put in AGC fuse holder. Capn Obvious will make us little plastic rods with spacers on his little itty bit lathe to go between the two tubie slitty thingys. Done. $1.00 each. Now where to by 0.020 slitting dremel cutting wheel or equiv..... Also thought of just a generic 0.25 roll pin that already has a slit by its very nature and kinda springy in the same way. Probability of the slot being the right width is small, but if it's too small, we can fix that. Or if too big squish it in a vise until its the right size. Looking at some roll pin spec tables, NOBODY seems to list the slit width. Just because when you use them for roll pins nobody cares how wide the slot is, jeezzzz...... Come on.... Don't make me go buy the Princess Auto/Harbor Freight variety pack, please....

LOL! I was going to respond earlier, but I was out of computer time. Beer to drink and all that... So I'm speculating that those parts are formed and NOT extruded. I would guess they are formed in the annealed state and then heat treated to a more springy condition after forming. The fact that they look completely closed where the fuse blade is inserted is interesting. My limited experience making such things says that would be difficult to achieve due to spring-back of any material when you are forming it. Hats off to them for achieving that and I'm not sure how they did it. As far as the material, stainless is not generally known for awesome electrical conduction properties compared to copper based alloys. Stainless is also not known for great forming properties either. I would have guessed they were chrome plated brass, but their website says they are " high-strength steel", so it seems my guess would have been wrong. All in all, a neat idea and a well done implementation. I'm guessing the investment in tooling to make those things was not trivial. Going to have to sell a lot of them to recoup that investment.

70zfun, Reading your post made me recall my experience last year with a similar engine "miss" at high speed and high load. My engine is the original L24 rebuilt 3 years ago with Ztherapy carbs, Pertronix II, and 0.6 Ohm Pertronix coil (ballast resistor bypassed). I may be running a bit more advance than you as I have 35 degrees total (static + centrifugal) at 2800 rpm. At full throttle in 3rd going uphill merging onto a limited access highway I would get a miss that would not let it rev above 5000, it did not backfire but just wouldn't pull. Never noticed anything in 1st or 2nd gear. Everything on the engine was new or in the case of the carbs, rebuilt. The problem was resolved with new set of NGK spark plug wires. It turned out that the wire to the number one cylinder on the other wire set was defective. As a test, this morning it revved to 6000+ with no issues. I think you are on the right track, set the valves, timing, and perform a general tune up to see if there is any improvement, if not, look at your coil and wires.

Techno Toy just sent out an email for their new, custom made S30 steering rack. Check it out: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z

It might be handy to have a few of these on hand in case you need a fuse and don't have the correct glass fuse on hand. It will also be handy to use with a fuse buddy to track down issues with popping fuses. https://www.thingsnotable.com/

I don't know how it could be cleaned. I think you'd need a new one. Or a good used one. Here's a picture I took of one that I tore apart. The fuel comes in from the side port and forces the valve open to exit down the hole in the middle of the center tube on the right. You can see the wear marks on the seat where the exit port tube seals.

Probably the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The valve seats are just flat pieces of steel. Any rust or small particles can hang them open a bit. I tested quite a few used ones when I had quite a few and most of them leaked down. Took some trying to find one that didn't. If the return line is still pliable you can clamp it and see if it holds.

Sorry, I forgot about that one - yep it was replaced too.

Left yourself wide open there Captain.

Good thought, it could produce a mark like this. But, I did not transport it with a cover. I do wish I could determine the cause, but I don't expect that I'll be able to figure it out. The detailer did offer to hand correct it to the extent possible for not cost. I have no doubts about their integrety.

The service manual is the the original VR that has the screw to adjust the contact points, I think. The one in my car is replaced I believe. it’s harder to adjust this type than the one mentioned in the service manual. However, it is adjustable. The 2 screws holds T contact point. It is shape like a T. It can be moved back and forth . The top of the T, I call it a blade, act like a spring tension. Move closer to the screws strengthen the spring. I think the coils below the top of the T, magnetized when energized. It took me no less than 10 tried to get it under 14v. Seem like idling voltage and driving voltage have different behavior. One of the try I did, idling was 13v but while driving it was under 11v and sometime the charge light turn on/off while driving.

Because that's the sort of thing you do when you have access to a laser cutter. Haha!!

I made a plate I haven’t tried it yet but should work gonna slowly heat and clamp

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. .

A friend of mine has been running the FAST system for a while. He has driven his Z to California and back at least a couple of times with it.

I bought a new rack a little over 2 years ago from a specialty company that strictly sells rack and pinion assemblies. I’d have to go back and find the vendors name in my records but they do exist.

The problem is the American owners ripping off their American customers. Not the people who make the product. The owners love it when people bash "China". It's their cover. They just keep raking in the easy money while everyone complains. The owners are the ones that set the low standards and accept the low quality product to pass on to the disappointed consumer. Anyway, you'd hope that a company introducing a new product would put the effort in to using the best design elements. But I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a tiny ignition module inside that big shiny Pertronix box. Probably assembled in America but the parts made elsewhere. Sorry, it's just today's reality. If I was looking for reliability I'd try to adapt a system from a modern car. Today's cars are designed for low maintenance and low emissions. They can't have ignition systems failing. Most cars have computer controlled ignition but I wonder if some don't have the older style still. I tried to find an OEM GM HEI module but it looks like they're all aftermarket now.

I communicated your concern with the manufacture. Note that I have no relationship financially or otherwise with him. He said that he would get back to me with a price break for club members. I'll post the details at that time.

Great responses gents, thanks, ZedHead and Captain Obvious regarding GM HEI. Yes, I agree the placement of the HEI under the distributor cap was a bad location causing premature heat failures. Heating and cooling of electrical components over time isn’t good nor the constant vibration. I know people,have successfully put these in. There are so many manufacturers of these. Unfortunately, you never know what you’re getting anymore. So many companies rush off to China to save money and end up with inferior products. The problem is you can never tell what you are getting. Even the Delphi ones are probably made there in the same couple factories. Go on Amazon and look at the review for these GM HEI modules….they are not good. ZedHead, I did some research and you’re correct. MSD was bought out and now has moved its production from El Paso to China. Many unhappy customers with the later Chinese models. Same reasons stated above. It’s hit or miss it appears. I can go on a long rant about what Chinese production has done to America. The bottom line overseas production has benefited companies balance sheet while killing US jobs and undermining our national security. I resist to say more. So after some research I’m considering another option. Pertronix has a product called the Digital HP module. Saw only one short thread on here from 2017. Again, I’m not trying to get power increase. I’m looking for reliability. ZedHead commented on the 2017 thread but the price had just hit the market and there was little to no feedback from car owners. After 5 more years the reviews are good. This product is made in the US, had good reviews and wires up exactly like the MSD at almost 1/2 the MSD cost. Amazon sells it and had free returns. I might test it and report back my findings. 95% 5 star reviews on both Amazon, Jegs and Summit. Haven’t read a bad review yet online, Right now I can’t confidently drive the car any distance from my house and while it’s running fine now if I drove 25 miles from home and I had another failure again i won’t be happy and it would be a major inconvenience . If the car is not reliable then it defeats the purpose of what I’ve done to this point. I’m willing to be the 280z Guinea Pig. If it’s not good I’ll return it.

And lastly... Here's a pic of my gland nut wrench test piece. This is on the 280 nut. Fits great: But here it is on the smaller 240 nut. The octagon is too big. So my CAD file won't do you a lot of good since it's the wrong size. @Daluvian I got your PM and will respond there too.

So that brings up a point... You 240 owners who bought the KYB 361002 struts for the front of your car... Don't toss out that larger gland nut that didn't fit your car. There might be a 280 owner out there who could use it! And vice versa for the 280 owners like me who have small nuts and don't know what to do with them.

Well would you look at that! It appears that the 240 DOES have a smaller ID strut tube and a smaller gland nut! I thought they just made the 280 wall thicker, but apparently both OD and ID changed with the 280's. The point is I have the smaller KYB gland nuts that I'm not going to use because they don't fit my 280. Using that info, here's what I have: So do you want just one, or both?

Tool-Boy, Koni's "Ikea-like" instruction sheet indicates that you should add oil to fill the gap between the strut tube and shock cartridge. It helps cool the shock and minimizes corrosion. If you ever want to remove the shock from the strut many years down the road you will be very happy you added the oil. I've always used ATF in my struts and they were rust free when I installed the yellow Koni's last winter. Just don't overfill them and leave a little freeboard for thermal expansion.

Snap On makes two gland nut wrenches, WMS1, and WMS2. WMS1 has four sizes, 51, and 54 mm on one side, 55, and 58 mm on the other. WMS2 has 53 mm on one side, and two sizes for slotted gland nuts like one finds on hydraulic jacks. Pictures below. The OEM strut assemblies used the strut tube as a reservoir, so oil was used. The aftermarket strut cartridges are fully self contained. No oil is required to be added.

Been searching for this solution for a long time. Too bad the price is crazy. Buying 12 (comes in packs of 3, so for 10 you need to buy 4 packs of 3, or 12) are $50 USD. With exchange and shipping getting near $100 CAD.