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jpc3006

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About jpc3006


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    Greensburg, PA
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    retired

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    240z
  • About my Cars
    Original owner of a 1973 240Z, restored in 2018.

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  1. Search "Koni Sports for Classic Z's." This thread has all the information you desire and probably more, look at the latter pages of the thread.
  2. 70zfun, Reading your post made me recall my experience last year with a similar engine "miss" at high speed and high load. My engine is the original L24 rebuilt 3 years ago with Ztherapy carbs, Pertronix II, and 0.6 Ohm Pertronix coil (ballast resistor bypassed). I may be running a bit more advance than you as I have 35 degrees total (static + centrifugal) at 2800 rpm. At full throttle in 3rd going uphill merging onto a limited access highway I would get a miss that would not let it rev above 5000, it did not backfire but just wouldn't pull. Never noticed anything in 1st or 2nd gear. Everything on the engine was new or in the case of the carbs, rebuilt. The problem was resolved with new set of NGK spark plug wires. It turned out that the wire to the number one cylinder on the other wire set was defective. As a test, this morning it revved to 6000+ with no issues. I think you are on the right track, set the valves, timing, and perform a general tune up to see if there is any improvement, if not, look at your coil and wires.
  3. Tool-Boy, Koni's "Ikea-like" instruction sheet indicates that you should add oil to fill the gap between the strut tube and shock cartridge. It helps cool the shock and minimizes corrosion. If you ever want to remove the shock from the strut many years down the road you will be very happy you added the oil. I've always used ATF in my struts and they were rust free when I installed the yellow Koni's last winter. Just don't overfill them and leave a little freeboard for thermal expansion.
  4. Andy, The original Datsun struts didn't have a dust baffle, neither did the red Konis from the 1970s and 80s. This is the third set of Konis I've had on the car. The baffle is new to me with the yellow Konis and from what I've read it is there to keep pneumatic pressure from damaging the strut seal when bottoming out on the bump stops. I don't know if it is really necessary but I trust Koni knows what they're doing with shocks. It's a small world, my daughter lived in Lancaster until she got married a few years ago. What a beautiful town and area. I know several folks who moved there in retirement. Good luck with your Z car. John
  5. There is a very long thread on this site describing the installation of the Konis, just search "Koni.". Here is a link to a youtube video embedded the thread - https://youtu.be/WoyR1-cAWH4. MSA sells a tool for tightening the "gland nut" on the strut. I used it and it works pretty well and doesn't mar the nut like a pipe wrench, just be careful that it doesn't slip. The video shows where the dust baffles go. For a bump stop I used KONI foam bump stops (70-34-95-000-0). They work well with the stock springs, but they may be too big if your car is lowered.
  6. I agree with 240znomad's recommendation that you look closely at the throttle linkage. When I converted from flat-top carbs to round-tops on my '73 I also replaced the intake manifold, throttle linkage and balance tube to match the earlier 1971 carbs. Even doing all that required adjustment of the throttle linkage rods. If you disconnected the linkage and still can't get the idle speed down you may have a bent or damaged throttle plate. I experienced this on my wife's Toyota years ago when a backfire through the carb bent the throttle plate and the car would idle above 2000 rpm. The fix was to replace the throttle plate.
  7. Zed, Then I must have put that foam in there. It's been over 20 years since I had the diff out and I didn't remember. In any case I think the foam deteriorated to the point where it blocked the vent and I got a cover gasket leak. So today I put a new gasket on and, at least for now, I have an open vent. I'll see if it blows any gear oil out. Thanks for the prompt response, John
  8. Does anyone know if there should be a foam filter inside the differential vent? The differential is an R180 on a '73 240. I removed the plastic differential vent and there was some disintegrating foam material inside which fell apart when I removed it. I am going to reassemble without the foam and hope that it doesn't blow the gear oil out the vent.
  9. I don't know what year your car is but on my '73 the taller side of the bracket is on the inside, towards the center of the car.
  10. KeysZ, FYI, I also am the original owner of a 73 (1/73 build date) so I went and tested the turn signals as you described. The marker lights on my car also dim slightly when the directionals blink (when the parking lights or headlights are on). I probably would not have noticed this unless I was specifically looking for it and this is not surprising as the marker lights and the tail lights are on the same circuit. I could not detect any difference in the blinking of the tail light and the turn-signal/stop light. Since you are noticing this when you change the position of the combination switch, that is where I would focus my attention. Note that I have installed MSA's parking light upgrade harness so the current driving the lights is through a relay and not the combination switch so the behavior I see may be different than your car. John
  11. I was in his garage an watched everything but I am not really sure exactly what he did but he did lift the rear when he installed the "fixtures" to the rear wheels and I did get rear toe, camber and thrust angle measurements. The thrust angle measured correlates with the RHS rear wheel toe-in of 3/16". I plan to deal with this by shimming the inner front bushing. I also manually checked the rears when I got under it to measure. I measured the leading edge of the spindle pins to a drain hole on their respective sides and got the same distance. Not very scientific but this may have shown something if there was a gross problem. So at this point I have no reason to believe the rear is the cause of the setback but then again I found nothing wrong with the front either. You may have something on your comment about build quality. In my readings I saw a comment that some automotive manufacturers consider a 1/4" wheelbase variance within manufacturing tolerance. I know that the alignment specs on my old Ford Explorer were so wide that you were "in spec" even though the car was eating tires every 8K miles! Who knows what tolerances Nissan had for the 240Z back in the seventies. Dave (the alignment shop owner) was most concerned with the camber of the LHS front wheel. He didn't seem to be concerned with the setback. My thinking is that if I should first get the caster equal on both sides then address the camber issue as it will change with the caster change. See attached printout.
  12. Zed, I looked at the chassis dimensions before posting and, as you indicate, they do not show a difference side to side. I don't think the T/C rod bushings are my problem as they are urethane and in good shape. When I was looking for problems under the car I measured the "gaps" between the washers and mounts on each side and they're the same. As best I can tell the T/C rods themselves are straight. Since I removed and painted them there is a slight chance that I swapped left for right even though they were labeled. I am considering removing both and swapping them side to side just to see if it makes a difference but I suspect it won't. Thanks for the feedback.
  13. Does anyone know if Nissan designed the 240Z to have a setback (stagger) of the front wheels? I vaguely remember reading an article many years ago that it did but I have never seen a specification. Some background for why I am asking this question. This past winter I removed the lowering springs on my 1973 240Z and installed stock Nissan OEM springs along with new Koni shocks and stock bushings. After doing this I took it to my local alignment shop (with whom I've been dealing with since I bought the car new in 1973) and they set the toe-in and gave me the printout from the alignment machine. The printout showed the left side having less caster (2.41 degrees) than the right side (3.61 degrees) but I was not concerned as the car always had this difference with the lowering springs and with the original stock springs. However, their new alignment machine also printed out the setback of the front wheels which I was surprised to see measured at -0.50 inches after the alignment. The setback was measured as -0.34 inches prior the toe-in adjustment. I am not sure how setting the toe changed the setback but those are the numbers. To confirm the setback values I measured the wheelbase on each side and the alignment shop is correct. Measurements in my garage verify the -0.50 inch setback as the RHS wheelbase measured 91 inches, the LHS wheelbase measured 90.5 inches. A 2305 mm wheelbase is 90.75 inches. So it seems that I have the passenger’s side 0.25 inches too long and the driver’s side 0.25 inches too short. After taking these measurements I put the car on jack stands and started looking for anything that could account for the difference and I found nothing. I measured the T/C rods, the front and rear suspension mounting points, checked the front LCA bushings, etc. I know I can shim the LHS T/C rod to get the LHS wheelbase to 90.75 inches and increase the caster angle but I can't shorten the RHS without adjustable T/C rods. Note that I am the original owner of this car, it has never been in an accident and is not rusty. The car tracks just fine and seems handle OK considering the increased ride height and the new, low performance 14 inch tires. My question is whether I should try: 1) to get the wheelbase equal on each side, 2) adjust the LHS to get equal caster angles on each side and leave the passenger side alone, or 3) not to undertake making any changes and just live with it? Thanks, John
  14. Thanks for the feedback. That is what I am looking for, something more compliant than hard urethane. I'll be putting them in with new Koni shocks.
  15. Just removed and disassembled all four struts and will be replacing the shocks and springs. I was using the MSA urethane bump stops which seem to be very firm, so I am considering switching to KONI bump stops when I reassemble as they seem to be fairly soft for the first inch of compression according to the published compression vs. force curve. In couldn't find anything searching this forum and am looking for real world feedback/experience with the KONI bump stops. Thanks, John
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