Leaderboard

guys, thanks for the help. Drilled it and used jb weld expoxy. Worked great

Last night I tried popping my hood open, with no luck. I figured I'd have to get it up in the air today and try prying the latch as mentioned in many other threads. But, somehow it did open, luckily. So while removing and cleaning the hood latch, checking the cable, I decided to add an emergency cable, just in case the original fails. First I bought a $2 hook and wire leader from Walmart, 60 lb test, about 34" long, and removed hook and beads. . Drilled an 1/8" hole in the top of the swiveling cable end connector, on the firewall side so it won't bind up with real cable. Fed the small cable loop up through the hole, then big loop through small loop. Attached factory cable and reinstalled latch. Fed new cable to throttle linkage bracket, down the inside of bracket, around brake lines so it wouldn't wedge into something, over to speedometer hole, and inside. Used small binder clip to clamp end of cable to clutch/brake pedal frame. Looks like I'm missing the speedo hole grommet. Anyway, it works great. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but it's there if the occasion arises.

I'm not sure the Z had a temp controlled vacuum switch. I think the ZX did, but based on the pic above, this is not a ZX. And also on the Z, the ported vacuum signals for the distributor/carb can are a completely different source than the one that is used for the EGR system. Similar in concept, but completely different ports and actuation loads, etc. The "T" pictured above has nothing to do with the EGR system.

Might want to get underneath and cut the damage out first and see how far the rust has gone. You might be looking at floor pans as well.

Come on down to Alabam! Weather is nice here compared to other's. It's only 99F here. I'm having trouble between gas price and temperature signs.

I can say that I have an OE '72 240Z tach that works as it should with an E12-80 ZX distributor. "I" did it myself from "Blues tech tips" without any problems. I'm stressing that I did it, you're way deeper than I ever could be and without walking downstairs I'm almost positive my 240 has more of a block style numbering than my 280. You can do it. 🙂

Check your points and the coil. Might be that the various problems are related. Check coil resistance of the primary and secondary circuits, verify supply voltage, reset the points gap, or, ideally, set the dwell. Verify a good ground for the points. Spark strength is all about current through the coil. Check the advance mechanisms in the distributor. Verify proper ignition timing. Retarded timing can kill engine performance. Once you know that spark and timing are good, you can focus on carburetion.

Ha, ha, ha... not at all. I have had several sets of Yokos and have liked them all. As an added bonus, they were way cheaper than the other tires I was looking at. Gotta love that these days.

Getting so close to getting the car back on the road after 3 years! So excited!

The parts are structural quality but that is assuming they're installed correctly. Good welds, rust protection, etc.

Yes, KlassicFab would be a good choice for replacement metal.

Klassic Fab... https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun-280z/complete-rear-frame-rail-right-side-datsun-280z/

If you've got play like that in the AFM, I'd just replace it with another one. Then after you've got it fixed, I'd autopsy the old one. Grind the stripped out screw heads flush and then pry that cover off. I would expect the sealant to put a fight though. I'd be interested in seeing the insides. It seems hard for me to believe that a bushing has worn out so much there is visible slop in the arm. Wonder what happened and why!

I have very little 240 experience, but I wouldn't expect the steering coupler to be the "planned" source to ground the steering column. I would expect the steering column to be grounded through the bolts that hold it to the firewall or the bolts that hold it up to the underside of the dash.

The floors and that rail are structural to the car. They are not merely cosmetic...

The ad says Title status Clean. It does have a hole in the roof.

That, I did not know. In my defense, I learned European culture exclusively by watching Mr Bean.

I saw this too. I have to agree with @DatsunZGuy looks like an early 260Z @zedhead Tail lights, Bumper mounts, fusible links, Evap can, larger coil.

That looks like a great buy even with just three pictures. Maybe @Racer X needs one more for his collection. That's a classic Edelbrock filter. https://www.edelbrock.com/pro-flo-1000-series-chrome-air-cleaner-with-foam-element-with-5-1-8-air-horn-1002.html

Looks to be an early '74 260Z.

'72 with a siezed motor, maybe a decent body for $4500. Something from a 1960's science fiction movie on top of the 4 bbl carb. https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/d/seattle-1972-datsun/7512539752.html

I can help plated hood latch parts if you’d like...