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While I’m working on the wiring I have also been reconditioning parts. Here’s the pedal box: New foot pads and brake switch. Otherwise just reconditioned original parts.

Seeing your pics, you do have the return springs on the carbs (hooked down onto the heat shield), so that's not it. With a quick look, I do see some stuff that isn't right though... The long hex nuts that go onto the throttle butterfly shafts are loose on both ends. The front carb is loose, and the rear carb is missing a lock washer and is loose. The top front return spring kludge appears to be pulling the center linkage in the direction that would increase throttle position. If it's fighting against the front carb return spring (and winning), that will open the front carb and raise the RPM. You shouldn't need that spring at all. I'm not currently in position to annotate pics, but I'll do that later tonight unless someone beats me to it. And also... Yes, the cables are choke cables. When pulled, they also open the butterflies some to raise the idle speed. So it would be important to make sure the cables aren't pulling the carbs open.

These engines come out and go back in quite easy. The biggest problem I've continually experienced has been disconnecting the exhaust.

Looking further at your pics the jury rigged throttle return spring looks weak. Those carbs should have a spring on each carb going down to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifold.

It'll be a heck harder doing it under the car for sure. Seem like a major job that will involve piston rings, head gasket, seals .... since you're in the neighborhood. Might as well pull the engine and do one overhaul. One time and do it right the first time 😉 good luck!

When i see someone laying a (assembled) head this way... i know how good of a technician he is.... 😟 Vinny: I can not emphazise howmuch YOU CAN NOT DO THAT!

Yup. That's the one I referred to as "the top front return spring kludge". Much easier to identify with your annotation on the pic. The way is right now, it's pulling the throttle ON instead of pulling the linkage off.

One thing I notice is this spring I've circled in red. Remove it and just let that lever thing it's attached to flop around. That lever thing is for a partial throttle opener on deceleration but the emissions part that connects to that lever has been deleted. As it is the spring would be fighting the throttle close springs on each carb.

I just opted for a glob of lithium grease between the pedal tube and the inner tube, as well as between the inner tube and the bolt. Keeping it off the threads was fun!

Perhaps it would help a bit to clarify some terminology. The strut is the upright tube and its assembled parts. The shock is a hydraulic dampener that fits inside the strut tube. The OE shocks were an open design (no shell cover) and used the strut tube as a reservoir to contain the hydraulic fluid. That is why your FSM refers to filling the strut tube with hydraulic fluid. New shocks are sealed units that simply slide into the strut tube. They are secured with a large nut called a gland nut, the same as the OE shocks. Most new shocks suggest that a small amount of oil or hydraulic fluid be addded to the strut tube to assist with heat transfer. Most new shocks also provide a gland nut that is designed to match the shock. Hope this helps a bit.

Here's how the throttle return springs should be hooked up. There's one on each carb.

I don’t have them mounted yet, but I picked up a set of BF Goodrich tires recently for one of my Z cars. I also picked up a set of Konig Rewind wheels. I’m thinking it will be a perfect combination for my Z.

We knew what you meant. I knew the Falkens were smaller than the Radial TAs I pulled off the wheels, and the visual did surprise me at first. However, when I'm behind the wheel with tires that grip well, I don't worry about it in the least. 🙂

Those are the choke cables, no? I have had the throttle linkage disconnected entirely while doing all this but have not messed with the cables indicated here. Still it makes sense to disconnect them in case it's a choke problem hassling me here, thanks for pointing it out. Also that fat hose goes from the valve cover to the back of the air cleaner assembly, as do the two smaller hoses coming from the carbs. The big one I assume is some sort of PCV thing? Here I reassembled the air cleaner backplate hose layout for a visual aid.

What does this go to? And I would unhook the throttle cables while trying to figure it out.

Yes I did put a small roller bearing into the clutch pedal arm where the old pin hole was to both remove slop and make it a never-wear-out-the-hole situation. The added benefit was a smoother pedal fell, although it was likely as much a simple improvement over the old pin the worn out hole feel. I used a small 1/4” ID router guide bearing with maybe a 1/2 or 5/8“ OD and just tack welded the outer race to the pedal arm to keep it in place after drilling a matching hole for it to sit in. I used a grade 8 1/4” shoulder bolt that fit the bearing nice and snug too with a nylok nut to keep it in place.

The vinyl interior work, especially the seats, is horrible.

The wheel is a strange construction of cast aluminum hub and steel spokes. I had the welding instructor at a local makerspace do the welding for me. It did pop a little due to the casting having bubbles, but he had no problem welding it. I personally would of not attempted as aluminum is very tricky to weld. At home, I drilled and tapped the holes to 4mm and was able to mount the hub. There's a little gap between the hub and the horn button but I can fill that in with a ABS printed part (once I can get one of my two printers working again).

Your plug installer tool looks great. I spent way too much time making a custom application device on the lathe. Don't have any pics, but when I use it, I'll snap some. Yours not only took a lot less time to create than mine, but it's also adjustable which mine is not. Forest through the trees....

I plan to use this company. Have heard good things from several references. Spacecoast Plating & Metal Refinishing Inc | Chroming Melbourne (spacecoast-plating.com)

I saw that too. Easy way to bend valves. I made a stand for L series cylinder heads. A simple affair, bolts to each end of the head and allows for the head to be positioned for chamber and port work, then assembly and initial valve adjustment.

Yes, that is what he is talking about . They are there to cushion the door from hitting the jamb. And the Z currently at auction has one on the driver’s side, but the passenger side one is missing. Certainly a small oversight on the part of the seller, something which would require little effort and expense, but may keep more serious bidders away.

FWIW I run Hankook 205/55-15 that looks really good in my opinion. They're all around tire that wasn't too expensive. Seems like Venturis or something? I'll look back at my account tomorrow and can say what they are for sure.

If it helps I created this sketch of my 7/70 car for another discussion. For this topic:

I think someone on this forum made an emergency pull for the hood latch that is still accessed from below but easier than using a pry bar. Here's one thread where @beandip and @Bonzi Lon describe their emergency release: In post #11 on this thread @mjr45 describes how he fashioned an emergency release.

GOT IT OPEN Thanks for the help and support.

Haha! If you're anywhere near as good at counting the beans as you are with the stuff that you really enjoy, then you must be pretty good at all of it! I'm not worried at about you opening up your first motor.

This will be a good one to watch on BaT, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-225/ Over 1000 pictures with hundreds of the resto.

I'm pretty sure you know this already. but one might point out that the order of operations here is extremely important.