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The front part of the head gasket seals the head to the front cover. When you pull the front cover while leaving the head attached, you need to pay special attention to the head gasket seal in that area when you reinstall the front cover - and it will require sealant which is tricky because the gasket will likely be oily. Some people cut the gasket back at the block face, clean it, the bottom of the head, top of the front cover, and put it back in place with sealant on both surfaces and "back in the corner" at the cut line. I do. It's good insurance. I imagine everyone has their preferred method. A Volkswagen engine builder taught me to apply a gasket sealer (I use Permatex gasket maker in the tube) this way: rubber gloves, put a small amount of sealer on your gloved finger, press it to your thumb, pinch the gasket between your thumb and finger lightly and keep pinching until you need more sealant then repeat. The object is to put a very thin layer of the sealant on both sides of the gasket and you can even it out by going back over the heavier parts when your finger has run out. This way you have a little added protection and you don't have RTV oozing out the sides (both inside the engine and out...) Ya, it's kind of a PITA, but it's worth it.

I’m starting this restoration thread for enthusiasts of the early S30 Works rally cars, so they can follow along, and perhaps also provide comments and their own insights as to the very early days of the S30 Works rally program. I additionally hope that others can chime in with comments, questions, corrections, and feedback as we go along. A preamble: this is a thread about researching, documenting and restoring a genuine 1970 Works Rally car. I’ve owned it for many years, but the realities of real life were getting in the way of getting started on a proper restoration. Given the car's provenance, I knew it would be important to get the history and the details as right as I could, given what little is known publicly about the Works program, and the scarcity of remaining Works cars. So I’ve used this time to do as much research as I could on the car's history, collaborate with a few historians (most notably @HS30-H, who needs no introduction), source a few needed parts, and work to provide a more complete pre-restoration snapshot in it’s current unrestored condition, as well as provide a glimpse of what the restored car will resemble when it’s finished. In addition to documenting and research, I've been looking for an appropriate opportunity to show the car publicly under my stewardship for the first time. Given the car’s current condition, it would have to be trailered to a show, which limited my options to “Somewhere on the West Coast". The stars aligned when ZONC announced it’s 50th anniversary meet in Northern CA in February for June 5, 2022. With this as a target date, I set my sights on getting the car as presentable as I could manage, given the time I had available to me. Loose parts were screwed on, dirty pieces were dusted off, and period stickers were researched, ordered, and placed (note: this last step was insanely fun). In my experience, there’s nothing like having a show deadline to motivate owners into getting their cars finished! Enthusiasts, historians, well-wishers, even skeptics and haters (although hopefully not too many of the latter): I look forward sharing this journey with you, and to your comments! 😄

If it's the 280Z, you can use the bosch L-Jetronic. Google Bosch relay 0 332 514 120

After a long 4 months, the ZONC 50th Anniversary was upon us! The morning of June 5 brought unseasonably rainy weather, but there was still a great turnout of cars and Z car fans at the Blackhawk Museum. The drizzle was somehow fitting for the look of the rally Z, and provided a light touch of patina, especially when considering its past history of being driven in anger through snow and mud. Below are a few pictures from June 5. It was a wonderful experience to meet so many fellow Z enthusiasts, see so many great Datsuns, and discuss and share our love for our Z cars. We were only too happy with the great reception we received, and were pleased to be able to finally show-and-tell the car’s unique features with fellow rally fans. Thanks to Linda and the ZONC community for putting on a great show. Much more content to follow in the coming days, months, and (gulp) years!

In stock and cheaper at Courtesy Parts. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-strap-80950e4100

A little past halfway down of the link I posted earlier. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I don't think you'd want to leave the tank to vent in any enclosed space, like a garage! When I did my tank I drained it (discarded the fuel at the local hazardous waste facility). Put the drain plug in and pulled the tank and sealed over all the vents, gas in and out tubes and filler port. This was 5 years ago, but my friend walked me through how to clean the tank and prep it for sealing out in the driveway. Once all that was done the tank cured for maybe 2 weeks and then put it back in. Probably another couple of weeks before I was ready to put any gas in. It's been fine ever since and has had nothing but ethanol free fuel.

I did buy a 280Z collar to use with the aftermarket pressure plate. The stacked height looked good, but with the engine running it was hard to shift into a forward gear, and grinding going into reverse. The car was driveable, but engagement was at the top of the pedal travel. I know these may not be same symptoms as yours, just saying there's something funny with these replacement pressure plates.

Jump on it while they are available!!!

MSA also has those 15753 front control arm bushings for less than Auto Zone Motorsport! Factory Front Control Arm Bushing, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts

The places you mentioned that offers free shipping on large orders enjoy the benefits of economy of scale. Companies like Summit and Jegs offers a vast product line that covers a variety of models and makes. As a result, they can negotiate shipping arrangements with logistic companies without adversely impacting their bottom line.

Unfortunately, those parts we buy don't jump into the shipping boxes all by themselves. Rising labor costs have made everything more expensive.

Good read if you have time.

I was able to buy it new from Nissan a few months ago, complete with the chrome caps.