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Gets bigger every year. Around 200 registered. Big thanks to Scott, Taylor, & Mike for the super great brisket and pork. Some fun drives with the GeeZer gang to the suspension bridge & table rock dam. The BZF photo shoot with the new Z was fun too... The organization of this event is absolutely top notch, thanks Josh!! The dam run The bridge run One red Z with 647,00 miles and a new one with 300 miles Somehow, the curves look better on this Z33 A full on twin turbo swap, (you won't see that at a SteveJ cars & coffee...) Part of the GeeZer brisket line My favorite part of the event Running up the tab with Cliff approved appetizers ...

I think that would be appropriate if the context suited, but definitely a niche interest. And - as is often the case with Works parts - something of a moving target in terms of evolution. Which version to replicate? There's also a philosophical conflict between original parts and replica/re-popped parts when the originals were never sold to the general public in the first place. Can be something of a minefield. I'm still not sure what I think about all that...

I did my 280 first then a 240 after I got the steps all worked out. No problems and it's been 10 and 6 years respectively. Turn the tank upside down vertically with the fill hole at the lowest point and in a 5 gallon bucket. It all drains out. I ran some welding wire through the vent tubes to make sure they weren't stopped up. The first time was a nerve wracking experience but the next one was much easier. I'd quit my job and do it for a living if I didn't live in Bumble Snot Alabama.

Have a hose pipe on the ready at least, of course an extinguisher would be #1 but when they're empty you might as well throw it through a window. Gas isn't that bad. I've siphoned a 100 gallons over my life and drank at least one half of a gallon. It may cure covid like drinking Clorox? If you back it up on ramps a 5 gallon bucket or 11 (57 gallons ) would slide in and out easy.

Yeah, I'd hate to burn the garage down for one stupid mistake. I just don't get too comfortable dealing with this big a fire hazard, but thank you, I bought one 5 gallon plastic gasoline jug and I'll have to see if I can syphon out the first 57 gallons first, then drain the rest into a big drain pan, which I also got from Amazon.

Interesting reading on the subject: https://ratsun.net/topic/67533-vacuum-problem/

I would think that with the improper function of the vacuum delay valve, you may not get the full effect of the EGR. The EGR helps to control NOx emissions by injecting some exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce the cylinder temperatures. In addition to the visual inspection, there is tailpipe monitoring. The test will look at hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and NOx. Typically HC is from the timing not being right or improper valve lash. You might want to read up on setting the valve lash to make sure it is correct. Heck, the correct valve lash will also give better performance. CO is from being rich. NOx tends to come from being lean or hot. Read through the EC section of the FSM and test/repair what you can. Make sure you have fresh oil and a full tank of gas when you test. Check your vacuum lines, especially for the carbon cannister. And as I said before, if you're in doubt, get a pre-test. If it doesn't pass, post the results if you need some guidance on repairs. As for the 76 year of manufacture, check the build date on the plate in the door jamb. If it's missing or illegible, check your VIN against the VIN range for 77. It could be that it was an 8/76 or 9/76 build. There are 3 years (sometimes 4) associated with a car: model year (sometimes the title may have a different year if a car was sold after its current model year), safety year, and emissions year. You would have to do some research to find out if the model year and emissions year differed in that timeframe.

Get a tub from walmart. Tighten the plug when it's close full and pour it up in jerry cans for your lawnmower. Read over this. It really was a big help for me. atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

They do test EGR functionality according to what I read, though I didn't find the procedure in my quick search. The part numbers are very similar. I cannot speak to functionality. When in doubt about your California smog test, ALWAYS get a pre-test. You don't want the car labelled as a gross polluter.

While no engine swaps happened at the last car meet, I did work on a friend's 280Z. He said he had to use his horn recently, and as he laid on the horn button, the horns quit. After a quick glance at the fuse box cover, I told him to step on the brakes. No brake lights - therefore blown fuse. Another friend had a spare 15A fuse. We went about checking other circuits. He had no side markers, either. That will have to wait for another day.

OK, when you put it that way, it sounds like it's not working correctly. In that case, I don't have any concrete suggestions about what to use as a replacement, but I would like to talk some about the "end of the story" and what your end goal is. So... I see you are in California, and are subject to heightened scrutiny of your emissions system. I'm assuming that's why you can't just remove that delay valve completely (as you've seen on most other cars). But your (malfunctioning) valve that passes air easily in both directions is functionally the same thing as removing it completely. I'm not in CA and are therefore not that familiar with their emissions regulation details. Are you telling me that the guys at the inspection station actually TEST that valve for functionality? I mean, I could be easily convinced they compare your engine to a year appropriate picture and look for all applicable emissions equipment, but do they actually start taking tubes off and testing for functionality?

I don't mind replicas as long as they're not misrepresented as OEM parts.

But it has to be HeinZ !! Ketchup!! How Heinz Produce 1.8 Million Bottles of Tomato Ketchup a Day (insider.com)

Yes.

I take great delight in the pictures too! Great pile of snakes!

No, not beat up. Just some grease, grime, bad picture. I won't say I didn't install it backwards. I cannot recall which way I installed it. This was the first time I installed a clutch so maybe I screwed up. I have a lot of firsts with this car. I'm getting really good at replacing transmissions (unfortunately).

Great pictures, Alan. I'm wondering if it's cost effective to press out a few parts to make a few of these headers. The end result may look too modern, yet still potentially faithful to the original design.

Put enough ketchup on it and we'll eat anything.

I'm possibly not the best person to answer the question regarding what was available for the LHD models, but - as far as I am aware - the full range of Nissan Sports/Race Option parts, as seen in the Japanese market, were not readily available for buyers in Export markets until Nissan started issuing their catalogues in English. Certain individuals, race and rally preparation shops and dealers got access to the Japanese catalogues through their own contacts and purchased parts privately (reportedly this could often be a struggle...) but it was not until the mid 1970s that this became a little easier. 'Datsun Competition' in the USA seemed to sell a mixture of Japanese made parts and locally-sourced products, and - for example - their 99996-E1140 'Competition Header' for the L6 was certainly a locally-made version with a single merged outlet rather than the typical Japanese 'binocular' twin-pipe outlet. The Works rally cars usually had hand-made exhaust manifolds with the expected creeping evolutionary differences. They were always made in Japan and the cars arrived fully built and ready for the events, even if a little local modification (to suit driver and navigator preference) was performed locally by a combination of Works and satellite team personnel. Because of their position on the cars the manifolds are quite camera shy, but here are some I have captured:

Hi Bart , thanks for sharing it , your thoughts are just the same as mine , my #2156 has it , I realized it today . Tetsu , he restored my 240Z and he definitely thought this spray bar was much better than the original one . I will ask him later . But I think we can see the one in the picture looked later one , much simpler way to make . The early one has a heavy duty looks , more metal and more screws . The first picture is my #2156 , and the second picture is my spare L24 which was removed from 01/1970 240Z . Kats

I was working on the comboi light switch from VIN #1818, 02/70, and noted a couple of weak design issues that were later eliminated. The first is the method of indexing the main plastic barrel to the frame with a small tab on the barrel that fits into a small recess on the frame. The plastic tab was long gone on this car and the PO had substituted a tiny piece of wire and a cut off straight pin, both jammed into the plastic to provide the index. I located suitable donor material in the form of a long dead BIC lighter, cut a piece from the body and notched the barrel to receive the transplant. The transplant was glued into place and then trimmed to fit the frame recess. All later model switches I have worked on reversed this design to provide a raised boss on the frame to fit into a notch on the plastic barrel. The second design item I found is the use of a jumper wire to route power from the light switch over to the wiper switch, later replaced with a dedicated power wire in the wiring harness.