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Today marks 15 years since I joined this forum. When I bought my brand new 1971 240Z 51 years ago I could not have imagined that I would still own it in 2022 and rely on maintenance advice and encouragement from a global community of Z owners. I would like to thank everyone who has helped and entertained me for the last 15 years, especially Cliff and Charles. Of all the car forums I follow, this one is the most friendly and helpful. I always feel that I leave with more than I bring. Thanks, Dennis

I have many times and I'm sure others have too. I'd suggest buying a couple of sets of new plugs (NGK BP6ES is recommended) and replace the fouled ones. It can make a difference.

I was on another forum (firearms centric), and someone posted this commercial that i had never seen before. General consensus was that it was one of the best car ad's ever. 300zx.mp4

Looks like 77 already has the high energy ignition. I always get the change mixed up with the fuel pump control. 77 was kind of a mid-change year, it still has the old AFM pump relay switch, I think. Posting before I see ckurtz's reply... Weird! The FSM says you shouldn't. Probably a mid-year change. So, if you're using the FSM tuneup spark plug gap, you'd be using a wide gap on a weak ignition. What plug gap are you running? Migth be a small part of your problem. Either way, the GM module will give more energy and allow the larger gap.

The broken part look like #5. Synchronizer hub From Dave WM. Second post

My family had a 68 Mustang when I was growing up, so I always had a special place in my heart for Mustangs, despite what idiots were doing at car shows. Back in 2011 when I wanted a new daily driver, I got the new Mustang with the 3.7L V6. It's a pretty good car, but it's no 68 Mustang. I appreciate it for what it is and for the honor it shows to the original. The new Z will never be like the old Z, but I like how it pays respect to the heritage. I also plan on judging it for what it is and not what cars once were. I think it could be a great modern driver in that respect. I'll also still enjoy driving the originals whenever I can.

I shipped my Z when I moved from Michigan to Arizona last year. It was a corporate move, so they paid to ship two vehicles in an open hauler, but I had to do the Z on my own. I got a quote from the same transport company figuring that I might get a break since they were already taking two. The quote came back around $1800 for an open carrier. I then requested a quote through U Ship and got a dozen or so transport company responses. Most were around $1100, but because of my situation, none were going to work. Enclosed transport was around $1600. The best any could do was a one week pickup window and an even bigger delivery window. I was leaving on a specific date from MI, so I would have to back up the pickup at least a week before my departure. I also had rented a 30 yard dumpster to clear out anything I couldn't take to AZ and that happened to be blocking the driveway until a few days before my move. I was forced to go with the same transport company that my other cars were using. They gave me a specific date and a few hour window for pickup with about a week window for delivery. When my cars arrived (open carrier), they were filthy, but mostly intact. The side mirror broke off along the route, but to be fair, it was weak and just broke from being shaken, not from being struck. If you request a quote from U Ship, I highly recommend using a throw away email address. You will get dozens of emails immediately and they will keep coming for a few weeks. We ship cars every single day at work via Reliable Carriers and I can say that paying more does not mean better care or reduced chance of damage. It all comes down to the individual driver, the position on the truck, and luck. If your car goes on the back of the truck, it could get unloaded and reloaded several times along the way. Each time they move it brings damage risk. If it's on the bottom deck, it could get dripped on from the car above, and so on.

I remember watching that one when it came out. Enjoyed it then and also now. If we're sharing great Z commercials I like this one for the new Z.

The cam in question sat on my shelf from 2006 until 2013 when I put it in my SU carbed L28 race car. I loved the cam in that engine. It pulled strong up to 7,000 RPM. It was a night and day difference between how it ran with the EFI and the SU's. I still have the EFI car with a stock cam and it runs just fine. It just didn't like the duration of the cam and the low vacuum that came with it. Speaking of which, what is your vacuum reading at idle? Your last post tells me that there is a problem with the connector and/or wiring between the dropping resistor and injectors. You went from #1 not firing to #5 not firing. If I recall correctly, there are two resistors. One for 1-3 and the other for 4-6. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. It has been a decade or two since I did any work on a EFI Z. The fact that you went from 1 to 5 is a bit odd since they are on different resistors (if I remembered right). Use DeOxit on both sides of the dropping resistor connection and then take resistance measurements from one end to the other for each wire going between the dropping resistors and the injectors.

The injectors are batch fired, so the order of the injector plugs doesn't matter. I can't remember if you said if you tried swapping the injector wiring between injectors #1 and #2, but if not, that's the next thing I'd try. If the issue follows the plug, you know it's a wiring issue in the injector harness. If the problem stays in cylinder #1, you can rule out the fuel system since you already changed the injector. At that point, you can start looking elsewhere. Assuming the issue stays in #1, I'd recheck the cylinder itself next. If you have a reasonably decent air compressor, go to Harbor Freight and buy their cheapo leakdown checker. It's similar to a compression gauge, but you put compressed air into the cylinder rather than using the starter to build pressure. With the piston at TDC, you add pressure and listen for air leakage. It can leak from several places and each tells you what's wrong. If you hear air in the airbox, you have a leaky intake valve. Air from the exhaust is a leaky exhaust valve. Leakage out of the adjacent spark plug hole or if the coolant in the radiator bubbles, it points to a bad head gasket. Finally, air coming out the timing chain cavity means the rings aren't sealing. The tester itself has gauges on it that tell you the percentage of leakage. Less is better and under 10% is good. Again, cylinder to cylinder variation will tell you if #1 is unlike the others. If the fuel injector test and leakdown don't give you the answer, then I'm at a bit of a loss without more details. Good luck and let us know.

Jeff G and Zed Head provided good advice when I was exploring stock EFI and more cam. Ended up just going straight to aftermarket EFI. Fast EFI is what I have and it works fine, but kind of wish I had more tuneability. Although your problem sounds like it's somewhere in the harness, and possibly not the ECM/ECU. Just something else to read. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63898-lift-480-480-duration-274274-cam-with-oe-fuel-injection/

https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-to-s30-door-lock-coat-hanger-repair.308946/

JB Weld also makes a putty that may work for this situation.

It isn't brilliant to cherry pick info and imply a different take on what happened. There aren't any 240z sketches, there are design sketches that eventually became the S30. You forget the CSP311 was an earlier concept at the beginning of this design road, and that route became a dead end. So, could it be said that the CSP311 was an early prototype of the "240z"? Not for me. Why is Goertz here? The CSP311 was an experiment, I don't think so. Yes it taught them stuff , and considering what the car was and its target, it was a success. Not all cars are measured on the numbers they sell. The US sales take, it needs filling out, as there are reasons why this is so.