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Seats complete. -had the lower section with springs powder coated. -painted the uppers myself -foam came from a member in the forum - covers are from MSA and are the vinyl version. - got advice and tricks and tips from S30driver (thanks Jim) Using zip ties around the hog rings is the way to do it, to tighten things up. I’m happy with the outcome. cut myself with the razor blade twice whic is so easy to do on a job like this.

The one you posted above is the correct one for 1970/71. @nix240zmakes early type and the later style for 72/73 https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423763 https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423741 The 72/73 style is not just JDM, it's for all markets. Years ago I purchased an NOS later choke assembly and used the later style grommet on my 1970, Here's the early (top) vs later (bottom) choke assemblies for reference

When rewrapping parts of my 76 280Z engine and dash harnesses I used non-adhesive vinyl harness tape. It’s what the factory used, it’s easy to work with and won’t turn into a sticky mess like regular electrical tape will over time. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

So, I’m going to start a new thread. This one has met the intent of the name. New thread will be “77 280z restoration”. I’ll pick it up there with my latest challenges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, in this case I'll get them tomorrow. I didn't quite luck out on next day.

I can show you the tricks for changing out springs, too, if you don't know them already.

I have used this cloth type many times. Looks good and doesn't make sticky mess when removed. Amazon has it. Wire Harness Automotive Cloth Tape - Adhesive High Noise Resistance Heat Proof Chemical Fiber Fabric Electrical Tape for Wrapping Wiring Harness/Insulation/Car Engine (0.75″82′Pack of 1 Piece)

Not that it matters (other than to satisfy my pedantic nature)... It wasn't just the 280's. The 260 also used plastic. If S30 doesn't turn anything up, I've got a spare pair here.

2 for fuel banjo inlet 1 for bowl air vent nipple 1 for bowl drain plug (later round tops only) 1 for needle valve 1 for damper stalk 1 for inside chamber to cushion piston end of travel As for the last one... Not sure. On the four screw round tops, there might be a seal between the nozzle holder and the bottom of the main carb body? Don't remember for sure.

I think I may have some in good condition. Let me check later today, and will report back.

The taller section goes toward the middle of the car. To orient yourself, I took the photo from under the bumper on the passenger side. You can see the angle on the mounting spot on the car.

If your sprocket has the notch in it you can just use the notch and groove. Keep the tight side tight.

You could bring it down to my place for me to look at.

Grab your fan blade and wiggle it front to back. If there is any movement at all, the water pump is bad and needs to be replaced.

Yes, Hill AFB is still active. The f16's have been replaced with f35's. I golf on a course that is just on the east side of Hill, man those planes are loud but very fun to watch. There's a gal that heads up the f35 demo team and what a gas to watch when she's out practicing! I do know how hot you get in the summer. I've had flights delayed out of Phoenix because of heat making the air too thin for lift on the wings. I spend the winter in St George and sometimes I'll come down for golf in the summer because prices are low, can walk on any course and the courses are in great shape getting them ready for the winter (much the same as in Phoenix). I have a good friend in Idaho Falls who's an old VW person. I pass through there every year on my way to Island Park for an annual fishing trip with some old work buddies.

What's the purpose of the weep hole, is it sad?

Getting back to the glove box discussion: I finally took a picture of the glove box from HLS30-00026. It's a universal type glovebox and 26th is a 'U' not a 'UV' but just the same for glove boxes.

Rebuild completed. See attached photos. I had to find another original after stripping the threads in one of the screw holes. I used the cap from my original since it was better. Vapor blasted and then reassembled using the JDM parts rebuild kit. I got fresh inlet and outlet from a GMB replacement pump. Found some fresh correct zinc coated screws on eBay. Once things warm up, I can get it installed on car. FYI…for those of you considering this, The internals in the replacement pumps are pretty much the same as the parts you get in the rebuild kit. You can save yourself just shy of $100 by using the parts from a replacement pump. Jim

Keep the hoses!