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I know the vac lines are next in my list. I need to go through the FMS and confirm routing. Not looking forward to it. Did the test run to check for leaks. Had a small one and just needed to tighten one hose clamp. All good now. Of note: the car was running rough when I started it and it was running rich, and a big smokey…messed with idle screw and checked plug connections…no dice. Then I noticed the temp sensor pig tail on the back of the head came off. Must have happened when I was attaching heater hoses back up. So it appears the ECU defaults to a rich condition when this sensor is disconnected. Now noted for the future. Reconnected and ran perfectly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it helps, I created a 3D step model and flat patterns from a 12/70 parts car glove box I have and uploaded the files here. The flat patterns are in acad.dwg format and pdf as well. It's from a Canadian market LHD car but hopefully it might help. FYI, I just noticed a typo for the sheet size I noted on the template drawing. It should be 24" wide x 36" tall, scale is 1:1 when printed on that size of sheet.

Thanks Bruce. You heater controls and box look very clean compared to mine. I now see where the cable goes , thanks for the pics. I just need to find the metal clips that hold the sheathing of the wire to the frame. There are 4 total in the system and I’ve misplaced 2. I guess that means it’s time to give the shop a full cleaning. I have lots of craps all over. I’m so close yet still far away. This whole HVAC…(heater core, valve rebuild) was an unexpected set back in this project but with a new dash it was better to find out now then after install. Before I install the dash I’m going to start the car and check for leaks just to make sure I don’t repeat another task.

I'm not sure I'm following your idea but this may be another option? https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD/ref=asc_df_B0000AXNOD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312131680281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10573119427317070475&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21143&hvtargid=pla-574384539732&psc=1

Good news. The Z project is back! Well it was never gone and i've been continuously working on it, but due to an management education i had on the weekend for the past two years, a big step forward in my job and many other things in life, the project was progressing much slower than i wished. But i'm a guy to make long-term plans and i've always had the plan to get things done when life allows me to. So here we are. My school is completed. Well i still have my exams in mid april so i'm working hard on that, but until then that and my job will still occupy most of my free time. The advantage of my new job position is that i earn some more money and in the meantime i've saved some especially to complete this project. I've also really longing to get back into the garge and get my hands greasy. Over the past weeks i've been looking for a bodyshop to complete the work. The old one was OK, but there was a bit of a difficulty when it came to communication and it was always a side-project for the bodyshop, which was earning money with small repairs, insurrance cases and fixer-upper projects of US-cars. He had a strong history in japanese cars, but i had the feeling he lost a bit of interest in my project. The other thing is - he was a talented panel-beater, but didn't have the tools himself, so whenever he had to bend some sheetmetal, he had to go to his friends shop. this was time consuming and i had the feeling i paid for much of it. So i decided instead to go to a more upperclass Oldtimer specialist, which usually deals with cars in a different price range. I was asking around and got some good tips. Finally i have a nice bloke coming over to check out the car and details in the coming days. we'll see how that turns out. so far i have a very good feeling. But i also started to collect all the panels required to complete the project Yes, puzzle time 🙂 Only the box section on the LH side is missing, but i hope the panelbuilder can make this himself. Labor is expensive in switzerland, so i decided to get these ready-made patch panels from the US, to delete the US-spec turn signal holes on the US spec rear quarter panel, which i got. Why pay a dude an hour of work to measre and create such a panel, i can buy a ptch piece for 20 bucks? Additionally a collected a few NOS items from some nice guys.- like an original hood hinge: And a complete choke cable assembly (ok, this one isused, but in almost mint condition!): and some more parts. Engine gasket kit, Starter solenoid, Rectifier diode, SU carb gasket kit and a wheel bearing: I also (again) bought a nice set of vintage swiss Datsun stickers. You may have seen them before, but the special one in this set is the white one: Its from the early 70ies and the slogan "Datsun bringt neue Werte" (Datsun brings new values) was used on many of the original Swiss Datsun (240Z) Documentation: Here is an 1971 advertizing where you could order above stickers for free (see center) I also found this nice swiss Datsun keychain from the early eighties. it was cheap, so i had to have it 🙂 From the same era is this 1984 Datsun / Nissan brochure, which i will use for my Datsun switzerland chronicles story which i'm working on. The swiss Prince / PMC Mikado pricelist from 1966 has already been added to the "Prince" part of the story For the coming "commercial vehicle" chapter, i obtained a few nice and rarer brochures of commercial vehicles, like this datsun Homer, King-cab, Urvan, and Vanette brochures: That's it for today. I have some more documents for the story on the way currently, and also a nice JDM-only piece for the Z is on the way from Japan. so stay tuned for more news soon...

The hood hinge torsion rods should be black, so I would assume they were off, when originally painted. Here is a pic of my 7/70 car, there is no evidence of overspray on them, not even the ends. Never been painted under the hood.

Good luck man. You seem to enjoy claiming that people are wrong even when surrounded by evidence that they are right. Hard to understand. I have had four separate propeller shafts in my possession, two short ones from early 240Z's, a 1976 280Z 4 speed, and a 1978 280Z 5 speed, and five differentials, all R200s, and several transmissions, three 5 speeds (1978, 1981, 1983) and a 4 speed (1976). I always try my spare parts out for fit and function and all of the propeller shafts fit the diffs and the transmissions exactly the same. They were all swappable. The flange was shaped differently on some of the diffs, and the 240Z yokes were smaller in form, but the bolt pattern and bolt sizes were the same. Even the nuts and bolts are the same. The 75 280Z diff flange is unique. Not sure why. If I had to make a WAG (and I do since you don't post pictures or measurements or any details of your claims) and guess why you're having so much trouble, I'd say that you have a 1975 differential. But that's just a guess.

CanTechZ - Great! Thank you for sharing! I can certainly use this.

I've used a 280Z driveshaft in my 260Z for almost 6 years. I guess you can't believe the BS you read on the internet.

We examined my later 1970 S30 Z-L glove box next to a 240Z glove box, and they appeared to be identical, with notches on both sides. I think my Z-L glove box was original, but do not know for sure. It does have factory AC, so the rules you stated would apply. I cant remember the serial # offhand, as the car has been under restoration since I purchased it, but I will look tomorrow. I'd still guess that Nissan switched to a single-style glove box at some point during production, for both LHD and RHD cars, so that they were the same. Bummed to hear that I mangled a rare piece of cardboard. I'll have to get some material and make a replica - shouldn't be hard to do.

Thank you friend…

Thank You! The help you can find on this forum is the best and much appreciated. Steve

Wow ! Thanks, that is what I have been wondering and waiting to see . Fairlady Z Air conditioner manual said “ you need to buy 68600-E4102 glove box assembly for cars up to S30-01629 . Cars after S30-01629 have already 68600-E4102 “ I was wondering what is the difference between them . Now I can see the one you showed us is the early one, and later one notched both sides for better spacing of the Aircon system . I can see the attached picture excerpt from the Aircon manual , we see notched both sides , this is 68600-E4102 . The ducts from the both end of the dashboard wrapped with thin sponge sheet , and ducting around evaporator need more space I think . By the way , LHD 240Z has the same glove box? Kats

Slight tangent. Here’s a glovebox which I butchered while replacing my rally clock. I noted that it was RHD-only (single left-side notch) whereas later ones I’ve seen are notched on both sides. Not necessarily Z432-specific observation, but I was wondering if that was true with the early cars, or if I’m looking at a cheap repop with only one notch. these seem to be fairly straightforward to replicate, yet I have not seen a source for them.

Thanks for doing this. Searchability by word would be great. I have not downloaded it but most of what is available out there is either just the full FSM as one giant file or a collection of chapters with bookmarks. Are you using some sort of character recognition to convert pdf images to actual searchable text files?

Thanks Chas but in this case I'm just restoring my own modifications, real restorers might take offense

It's very difficult to glass things onto the car and make them stay long term. Just too much vibration for the connection

That's what I mostly do. But why stop at three?

You are not alone... Last time I did that I sounded like Ralphie's Dad from A Christmas Story when he was working on the furnace.

Zed. You are full of it! I have a stack of 240 drive shafts and the flange pattern is smaller for sure. Youre wrong!