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So the alternator is charging nicely. The chokes have been dialed back. (Though I accidently went gorilla-mode a broke one of the air cleaner receiver bolts. Fortunately, I had a stash to replace the broken bolt.) I did one more test drive to see how the lighting was in the dark. It passed with flying colors, though I did adjust the headlight aim some when I got home. The heat is working nicely, too. It's time for the acid test. I'm taking it to a car meet tomorrow. It's the first excursion since the Mitty vintage races in 2010 at Road Atlanta.

If I remember correctly from the Chem E Transport Phenomena class (using the classic textbook by Byrd, Stuart, and Lightfoot - I actually still remember the authors!) that I displayed a mediocre understanding of 36 years ago, for optimal heat transfer, I would think you want the inlet going to the bottom (think about the return on your radiator).

Edit - didn't mean to overpower grannyknot's post. The "antifreeze coming off the timing chain" just jumped out at me. Not right! Your first impulse was correct. There should not be coolant coming from the timing chain area at all. The coolant system is completely isolated from the crankcase. Your oil is ruined but the engine might be okay. Remove the valve cover again and see if you can find where the coolant is coming from. Cracked front (timing gear) cover seems possible. Did you have any problems removing the head? The two little bolts maybe. Did you remove the front cover?

I finally took the 240Z back out for an extended drive today. That's the first time for it in almost 12 years. We went to the Worship car meet. (Think of a more intimate version of Cars and Coffee.) @gwri8 decided to drive down and visit, too. Plenty of Z cars showed up. I missed getting a photo of one of the 280Zs, though. It was nice to drive the 240Z again. Who is that mysterious photobomber? 😉

She won't hear it from me...for a price. 😉

Love it - a new expression. Mine is tired after being used long and often - "shotgun"

Yes. Easier to just plug them to block fumes and leave them for someone down the line who might go resto on the car. Plus, they're good ports for electrical wires in the future.

So I added tension to the alternator belt, and the alternator still wasn't charging. Time to load the parts cannon! I fired the cannon and tested with a new alternator. Still no charging. Now it's time to diagnose properly. I checked the sense voltage. It's good. I check the lamp voltage. It's not good. I checked on the positive side of the diode. Nope. I inspected the connector with the jumpers. Some time in the past I moved the jumper to the wrong place. I moved it back, fired up the engine, and saw 14.6 on the voltmeter. So let this be a lesson, kiddies. DON'T use the parts cannon before you make an effort to diagnose thoroughly.

Yes the front cover has the water pump and the oil pump so there's a good place to mix the two. The water pump has some funky bolt lengths and if they aren't put back right they could crack the cover.

Pictures of the wrench over the tool bag.

As Zed said ^ They are behind the plastic panel in the rear, and the one on the right rear, where the vent tank sits. If you are not using the tank I would look for some rubber caps to seal them off.

And.. yes those are the right rear side windows.. 🙂 (could also not find the numbers on how far you should torc the bolts from a mustashbar thingy.. 😉 ) so you did right to look for the standard nmbr for those bolt mm.. and use some blue stuff.

Well that sucks - Covid. I'm coming to know too many people who are getting whacked by it. I think my wife had it as well. Every single symptom she had is a positive indicator. Never went to the doctor since they just send you home anyway. Glad to hear you're okay and back at the fun stuff!

Thanks @YZFMax. It looks great,

Wow, thank you again! This is perfect! You just made me a happy man and my wife…well let’s not tell her about this extra upgrade! 😉

2nd nature to you Steve. You've helped so many people it's like tying shoe strings now.

Here's the latest list I have after working on the 240Z for a while. I'm also including H4 headlight housings and H4 LED bulbs. I like the Hella H4 housings because they look more period appropriate. The H4 bulbs I listed are polarity independent, so that's nice. White LED (license plate and reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4 Amber LED (front side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5 Red LED (rear side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights) - Recommendation removed due to bulb failure Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) - Recommendation removed due to bulb failure Green LED (gauge lights - green lenses) Recommendation changed to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VNXS6H because they are bright and fit under the lenses. Red 1156 LED (rear lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2 Hella H4 housings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

All of the lights are fairly easy to change out. I like the Hella H4 housings. Just view the attached video on YouTube (look at the lower left hand side of the image with the link) so you can see the parts link in the description. The Auxito bulbs I used do not need relays, but relays won't hurt. White LED (license plate and reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4 Amber LED (front side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5 Red LED (rear side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFR8TPT Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCCYWKF Green LED (gauge lights - note, you may need to remove the green lens in the gauges) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JGFK11 Red 1156 LED (rear lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2 Please note that I selected these for the best fit/most light that I could get. Match the lens color for all exterior lights.

I seam sealed again before undercoating the car and got her down off the rotisserie. I should have the rest of the suspension installed tomorrow and back down on the wheels by the end of the day. I've been trying to keep the shop as warm as I can to fully cure the clearcoat. Some guys start sanding after 24hrs but that's got to be California, I think I'll block it out with 1500 to break the surface and let it out gas for another week.

So I switched gears today. Wasn't really motivated to do anything but finally did (I had Covid a week ago). So I started working on the differential and differential brace to accommodate an LSD diff I drew the transverse assembly member in AutoCAD Then I plotted it out on my big plotter and mounted it to cardboard I also got the bolts for the musache bar back in the chassis. I had asked a year or to ago for torque values but never got an answer so I Googled generic torque values. They're 18mm thread and I assume they're 8.8 so I torqued them at 130#'s with a little blue lock tight. I could have gone all the way up to 200#s supposedly but that seemed like enough. I got the mustache bar hung. It's interesting you can't install it with all the other suspension in the way. I was able to thread the chassis bolts up and down so I didn't have to disassemble the suspension

I wouldn't think it would matter on in/out

Snow weekend in Texas. Too cold to do brake work. Did put new wheels in the back and tested the drum brake e-brake. It works, I didn’t mess it up too bad rebuilding them.

I believe those are where the tank vent lines go down through the floor from the vent tank

Just took this pic now… hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After painting the air dam. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk