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You're in that weird area of talking like your "informed" but asking uninformed questions. Basically, your comment says "not really excited about doing things the way the Nissan engineers designed them and used for the full lifetime of the Z. I don't want to use the factory installed removal hardware that Nissan installs on every single engine that leaves the factory. " Think about that for a while. (TATFAW)

I believe it's around 127 or so.

Pardon me for the interruption, but did you find your Z lying next to the Titanic and decided to rescue it? I've scrapped better Z's, back in the day.... WOW!!!

Nice day! IMG_2304.MOV

Love TATFAW

I've been working off and on to make a wood steering wheel from a donner. 1) I stripped the old foam, sanded and powder coated the steel hub and spokes. 2) Cut up some walnut that sat around for 25+ years, soaked it in Cactus Juice wood stabilizer under vacuum, then let it soak up the juice for a week before baking it. 3) Resawed the wood and created two hexagons from the pieces, glued them together. 4) Made a router jig to cut circles, then cut a grove in the wood for the steel rim to fit in, then used the jig to cut the outside and inside diameters. 5) Glued up the two circles, sandwiching the steel rim and a 1/8-inch sheet of blood wood (also treated with Cactus Juice. 6) Routered a round over on the inside and outside of the steering wheel. Screwed up once breaking a 1/4-inch router bit and ripping out a bit of wood. 7) Sanded, sanded, and sanded. 😎 Finished with wipe on varnish. Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.

Did you even bother to click on the link that @siteunseen politely posted? When you do a google search that includes classiczcars.com, the result are primarily focused on this forum. A lot of times you get more focused results than by using the search button on this site. In Site's example you get the following, and if you click more results, you get 3 plus pages of relevant results from our forum. I will also mention that if you search from our forum with quotation marks, ie: "engine removal". you will get results for the phrase in quotations. Which also gives a good list of results. I suspect you already know this, but by reading your blunt requests for help it doesn't appear that you have the time to search for yourself. Maybe you should think about that for a while, oh and yes I do have better things to do.

Wow... i to have scrapped a 240z that was better then that!! It was a car with a original Dutch license number so it was all it's life here in NL.. But those are often also the bad ones because of the weather.. How is it possible that a Z has such a bad cowl? was it near the titanic?? (as wal280z sayd..) or in the rain? (In Tampa florida???? it's not a Florida car then..) I would like to see the rest of that Z-car? Pics? They must be of a very good car otherwise it's not worth the work you will have to correct this mess..

I think I could have made a decent down payment on a Porsche or house if I would have saved those cars and sold them in today's market. But. it would have cost me how much ?? to shelter them from Mother Nature...

It’s possible but that’s going to be a ton of work I would almost just cut that entire part out and then graft on the donor. Basically I would cut out the entire yellow area in my picture and then down far enough into the firewall and in straight lines to make welding in a new piece easier. Are you good with a welder?

Set some time aside and read. It's been gone over many times and you will learn the tricks/shortcuts. Very easy with the right preparations. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=WpdPYdLgGsKygge18KiwCQ&oq=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCgAToECCkQRzoFCCkQgAQ6BwgpEAoQoAE6BggpEBYQHjoECCkQCjoNCCkQxwEQrwEQDRCTAjoOCAAQ6gIQjwEQjAMQ5QI6BQgAEIAEOgsILhCABBCxAxCDAToICC4QgAQQsQM6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoLCAAQgAQQsQMQgwE6CAgAEIAEELEDOgsILhCABBCxAxCTAjoLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCDAToICAAQgAQQyQM6BQgAEJIDOgQIABANOgcIABDJAxANOgYIABAWEB46CAghEBYQHRAeOgUIABCGA1CULljI3AFg0OcBaAJwAHgAgAHFAYgBwx2SAQQwLjI2mAEAoAEBsAEe&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

I took the 260Z to one of the regular car meets I frequent. A fellow GZC member was there, so we parked together.

Okay I'm a pervert, I'll admit that but I apologize for going to the dark side after reading the above. Would someone please agree with me? Steve is my hero and I don't wish to upset him.

So, I thought I try some experimenting in the garage today. The wife agreed to join in, too. We generated some heat, and thanks to the baby oil, I found both holes. I felt very satisfied. Now I need to fill the holes. I'm man enough to do it. If I can't remove the old fittings, I'll probably use my cheap wire welder to fill in the air injector.

In 1978 Nissan went to a one piece rail. Not the three piece with the hose connections that your 75 has. That's worth it, for an easy switch, if you can find one. A ZX rail is also one piece but the cold start valve will need some work to get connected. Many people get an aluminum rail because it seems to help with the hot start problem.

Maybe you should start a build thread instead of a new forrum post for each random question it is helpful to have it all in one place then it’s easy to reference.

I would fix the rust first just saying if you try to start your car in it’s current state it might shake apart

I too scrapped out a few cars that I regret not saving. The rear view mirror is 20/20 as they say. Now I keep everything I can. I saved this off a 70 shell I picked up a while ago, as it was in too good of shape to scrap. I cut the firewall below the spot weld line. Most of the A pillars are there too. The bottom was toast. Getting it to FL might be a challenge, but if you were interested........

I suspect the specifications you seek would only be available through two sources... 1) The manufacturer(s). And I agree that it would be unlikely they would be willing to share that level of detail. and... 2) Someone who has purchased both and had them analyzed to determine the detailed specs. Maybe you'll find someone who has already done that analysis and is willing to share, but I think it's a long shot. Good luck with the venture. Have you considered using rubber bushings instead?

Wayne, are you thinking you might have been a bit hasty in scrapping those cars?😉

Any chance it's called '51 Machines'? If so, they are doing some amazing work on a very tired 240.

I'll add don't overthink or get intimidated, just get a good plan after researching the previous posts. It's really easy. I did my 1st one by myself after reading this book. It's the Z Bible if you ask me. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-Publisher/dp/B004X9A0OA

Yes, pretty much narrows it down to the rear carburetor. I'm not sure if the SUs have an idle circuit but that's what it sounds like.

If all 3 on one carb are like that, I would start there. Maybe stuck choke or choke cable binding up

This foot rest came out of a 1980 S130 Nissan Fairlady Z I lost in a shop fire. It has one of Ian's reproduction rubber two pieces that fit together. The passenger side of the car suffered no damage as the car on the driver's side was the culprit. The foot rest is for sale hit me up if interested. P.S. This was mounted directly to the carpet/floor pan without any spacers.

Can't wait to are the finished car!

Those dopes that have TV shows for living in Alaska need a little covid. That's what I consider ironic. They go off grid and then have a production crew around all the time.

I think it's just one guy. He used to be a Z guy. He should know better. Pretty common, you can find the stories of the guy who started selling a few parts, got bigger, and things started to go bad. I just call things like I see them. The benefit of doubt just facilitates more problems, I think. Call 'em out early so they can fix them before they get a permanent bad reputation. The instructions on the "high amp" alternator page are misleading. They lead people to buy a product, because it's a "direct replacement" that won't work if they follow the instructions that are used to make the sale. Once the part is connected wrongly, it becomes a "used" electrical part which gives the vendor the excuse not to refund the money. It's very close to being intentional. That's how it looks to me.

The pliers are very cool. Could you post a pic of all the tools once you get them all together? I've never seen a whole tool kit assembled before and it would be a good reference.

Spindle pin puller was handed over today. Hopefully it works out for @AZDatsun Eventually if I have time, I'll make more and sell them if there is a demand.

Where in AZ are you located? You can borrow mine.

Love your Z Moelk........but how can you sleep at night missing the little black door stopper? I’m so disappointed...😜

Late evening drive.

Who's Shirley?