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I know that the stainless steel roof trims (see image below) on late model coupes (01/76 on) are fitted with clips (see image below), certainly to part number 73812-N4425 and 73813-N4425, for example. In NOS examples, they are normally contained in a little bag (see image below) as part of the roof trim assembly itself, but not clipped into it (I say normally, as a couple I purchased didn't have them).

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Wait... Are you asking if I've done something just like that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VomBuudIDsM

Well, the rotational clunk is gone!! All the lasers actually helped. Still some little gremlins to sort like the speedo decided to stop working and now my power steering thinks I’m stopped and it’s on full power assist all the time..! Easy fix. Weather is crap this weekend so I will try and get a good pull down the road next week and send the data log to the tuner for evaluation. Onward!

Having the luck to look at many of these, I have seen some from the later 280’s that DO have clips in them. Now as to why anyone thought you might need them, I can’t imagine. Assuming they are not bent or deformed or twisted, they snap on VERY firmly. About the only problems I’ve had installing them stems from a fresh paint job where too much paint thickness on the gutter pinch weld. I am fairly confident that the factory would not spend extra money on these if they hadn’t had reported issues that these clips addressed. I can go look if any of the rails I have contain these clips to show what they look like. And here is my hot tip for drip trim removal https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65066-new-way-to-remove-stainless-drip-rail-trim/ .

You could always take the door to the paint shop. Have them scan it and see which formulation the scan is closer to

Here is where the A pillar vinyl starts

Won't work. You'll be able to calculus the living crap out of it, but the car just doesn't respond to Fourier transforms, Laplace Transforms, OR diffy Q.

The dimmer switch just supplies a ground to the headlight circuit. Looking at those three wires (in your first picture above) that came loose out of the broken switch, the Black is the ground, The Red/White is the High Beam ground (I think) and the Red/Yellow is the Low Beam ground. The switch just changes which wire gets connected to the Black ground wire. To get by, you could just connect the black wire with the Red/Yellow (If that gives you high beams when you switch the lights on, I was wrong - so, just connect the Black to the Red/White instead). Then you'll have Low Beams for driving while you find a replacement for the broken switch. The Ground is always connected to one or the other depending on the position of the switch so you don't need to worry about leaving the wires connected. Power to the headlights comes from the headlamp switch on the right of the steering column.

The drip rail stainless steel trim is designed to be installed without any clips or mechanical devices to hold them on. They simply snap on over the drip rail.

The late 71 that I disassembled used no clips.

What clips? If you're talking about the gutter trim, I think you just press it on.

Check out the color Z they chose for the opening seconds!

Very nice idea that highlights more Z-cars than any other model. I like it. And they use a manual transmission Z in more than one place! Nice!

Yesterday i played an old cassette from 34 years old.. sounded like if i had recorded it the day before.. (studio equipment) and i had my tv on the remote has a mic.. to ask for something.. it was switched on but nothing was on it.. half our later i went to youtube.. what you think.. suddenly i got the song from the old cassette on youtube! It was lonely shepherd an instrumental recording.. So.. my guess.. the mic on the remote must have been switched on without me pushing the "speak now" switch button ?? Somebody is listening in... creepy!!!