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Make sure you put the flare nut on before you flare the tubing.

But look at all that clean, shiny metal (and the gaping hole in the front of the rocker panel)! I managed to wait until the car was back in the garage before cracking the first beer!

Slow poke! Its 5 o'clock somewhere! 😉

Thanks everyone, I got the automatic adapter off and can now proceed!

Been there; done that! 😞

My Gerstner. It's absolutely the centerpiece of my workbench. I got it a number of years ago from a retired machinist who used it for decades at his work. When he was showing it to me, he was pointing out blemishes and little scars and telling me that it would be pretty easy to strip it and refinish it. I asked him why would I spend time taking out all the history and personality that he so lovingly put into it? He beamed.

I’m not sure what technology they would have used in the 70s but what I’ve read about is silk printing as well as acid etching the base material to the glass first to allow it to stick. I would love to get mine rubbed off and new elements put in so watching with interest! And then there is this very “rare” item https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/54396-2000-rear-hatch-glass/ If silk printed then it should be easier to remove but again, I do wonder what ghosting effects are left behind. Having said that, I was working at Deutsche Bank during the Occupy protests in London and the students protesting, took coins / sharp metal to the glass on the building, making big circle scratches. The next week, we had a glass firm come in and polish the glass, with absolutely ZERO evidence of the damage left afterwards!! We were supposed to dress casually and go through the service entrance at the back. So I put on my student jumper of old and scruffy weekend DIY jeans. But the funniest bit was our bosses - have you ever seen a mega rich banker dressed down and casual? It was more a case of banker with a “W” - boy did they stick out a mile! :p

If I were gonna try this, I would scrape a small area with a razor blade and then polish the glass with something like meguiars mirror glaze on an electric buffer

........and also one of my favorite colors for the 240Z. They look spectacular in sunshine yellow......really shows off a nice set of wheels and tires!

I can't wait on erectile dysfunction, where it's always 5 oclock.

Here's a couple more pictures,

The late 71 that I disassembled used no clips.

Cerium oxide is the traditional method but I routinely polish glass for Cody's car with paint cutting and polishing compounds. Works good, but wont remove the really deep scratches

Well now I have two tools. I will try them and see which works better for me. As long as one of them works, then I should not have any downtime and can focus on how to secure the line properly,

For a similar project I used common household bleach to remove the chrome and copper that's adhered to the Z cars tail light bezel. I'm thinking remove the hatch and use the dish of the rear window you hold as much bleach as it can. This process may take days to finish. The bleach reacts with the copper and causes it to lose its adhesion. The process emits some pretty nasty maybe even toxic fumes so be careful. Regardless I'll be following to see what your end results might be whatever you choose to do. My rear defroster has never worked either.

Looks more like an afternoon sitting in the shade, drinking piña coladas. 🙂

That crank does have an auto adapter on the back there. It shouldn't be there on a manual gearbox. They can be quite firmly attached, but it will pry off.

Make sure you put the flare nut on before you flare the tubing.

I decided to take Tweeds advice and bought that tool. I want to simplify the project and obtain a successful outcome. Not being able to make good flares is not an option that I want to consider.

A little long weekend work on wheel well cleanup this past Monday.

Hey, I'll take it, its not yellow. Already sick of the yellow.

That looks in excellent shape. The gauge sender also, which is also big money (sorry AK260...). Here are some comparables. And, probably not really available if a person tried to buy one. Make sure you keep the filler cap also. Those are NLA everywhere and anywhere. Impossible to find. https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-tank/

You can pick up a meter for 13 bucks in some stores I recommend getting it now, it’ll come in handy, I think replacing the fuse should be a good step. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

site, I think you got your heater hose memory backward. People get a hard time on the forums if they bypass the heater core, connecting the head outlet to the pump inlet. The best way is to block it completely, if you just need to get by until you can buy new hoses. If you use a bypass hose then hot coolant that has not gone through the radiator is passed right back in to the water pump. Lowers the effectiveness of the cooling system. dylancorrea those are the original hoses. They could split at any moment, spewing coolant everywhere and letting your engine overheat. Then you probably will need a new head gasket. It's pretty common for those old hoses to blow. 5/8" heater hose from any auto parts store will work.

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Assuming you'll be flaring the brake line yourself, consider buying this tool: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-51535 It's super quick and easy, and it makes near perfect flares every time. A bit pricier than the regular flaring tool kits, but I think it justifies its cost. I originally tried using one of the regular tool kits when I replaced a line, but it was super finnicky and hard to use (was a bit on the cheaper side though). Got the Titan and accomplished more in five minutes than I did after an hour or so of mucking about with the kit. Plus, you can use the Titan to flare the line while under the car if you need to make some last minute adjustments - particularly useful in your case since you're probably going to have to figure out your own custom lines.

Took a shot of what I had not bolted down: Mikuni Solex from Datsun Comp-- 50's / 3 Sets of 44's , 1 Set NOS / From Mikuni America, 44's and 40's / Webers 45's, 42's, (4)Sets of 40's / IDAL 3C 40's / 1 Mechanical Fuel Injection set up (Hillborn type) From a 2.5 liter hydroplane. I know a little bit about trips...........

"Late to this thread but better late then never.... " Wow. I disagree. I think never would have been better than late. Your first post ever on this forum - "Nyeah Nyeah Nyeah! Pbbbbbbthhhh! My part sold for exactly what wanted, so for all you people who said anything I didn't like about my auction... you are smart a$$ with little minds or have personally problems." It might just be me, but I would rather see someone come to the forum and try to participate in some way other than simply trying to profit from it's members. Add something constructive to the community before you start trying to make money off them. I mean... I get it. I understand you're trying to sell parts for the highest price you can get. Who doesn't?? Just add something constructive to the community instead of coming here to wave your fantastic awesome success in the air and rub members noses in it, and call people names simply because they have opinions you disagree with? Never would have been better than late. @Mike

Yet another fragile ego.

sounds to me like you need to find somewhere else to sell your stuff. maybe some REAL datsun website

Wow. Good luck to him! That's got to be a rare bird for the person who just has to have the real thing. Seems to me that I could pretty much "convert" my 77 glass to 69/70 JDM glass with a scraper blade and some acetone...

Your book has been an inspiration for all of us, look forward to seeing your next machine!

Hi, Mr. Humble (may I call you Wick?): We've been away from this site for awhile and just returned to find your recent posts re: trying to find your old car, VIN# HLS30-03547. I have records of the whereabouts and ownership of several thousand 240Z Datsuns. But sad to say, I show a huge gap between VIN #03486 and #03598 (sorry for the abbreviations, Alan!). However, as I continue to fill in the gaps from various sources, I'll certainly be on the lookout for "your" #03547; and will definitely notify you if and when I should happen to locate her. I, too, would like to commend you most heartily for your wonderful book. While I have not yet undertaken a restoration per se (only a "refreshing,") still I consider the book a valuable asset in my collection of Z Car books and memorabilia of various types. Thank you for all the hard work you must have put into the book as well as the car! All Z Best,..........................Kathy & Rick

Hi Wick, Do you know Carl Beck from Florida. He maintains a Z car registry at his site: http://zhome.com/ I looked but do not see your serial number listed. You might want to contact Carl as he knows a lot of the history of many early Z cars. He posts on this site. I to have a copy of your book and have referred to it many times. Thanks for taking the time to write that book. Good luck with your search!