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Hey I have to apologize to you guys. I had a little break down here, y'all are my friends and I needed to talk. My Mom's sister passed away Saturday night from complications of covid-19. Thank you all for unknowingly helping me. I really appreciate it. Cliff

I smoked from the early '80s until New Years morning 2007 at about 9am. I quit a lot of stuff then. We have the high cdb, low thc legal here now but its BS in my opinion. I prefer pharmacies for my drugs now. They say Alabama is about to start a 2oz or lower fine, up to $250. Pot grows like crazy down here in our climate so dispensary weed would never work. I'd be affraid to smoke again it makes me hyper. My doctor says I have ptsd from a closed head trauma and stimulates relax me where weed stimulates me. Crazy! I'll figure it out after I drink a little more. I'm still fairly young and smart enough to drink at home.

My friend had a car built by a repair shop here in Alberta and paid about $150,000 USD after labour for the same job as you had done. About $20,000 of that was for a built motor though, the rest mostly labour costs. My build contains no labour costs as I did it myself. It would be another $100,000 minimum for the work to have been done here. It seems it would be cheaper to ship cars to Dubai and have them restored then shipped back!

Shaquille O'neal. He's on my television all the time. Commercials. Always a nuisance but now with Safer at Home they've doubled. Streaming also affects this last money grab in my opinion. The Royal Family. No comment! is all I want to hear from those poor family members. Craig Robinson, Snoop Dog, Matthew McConaughey, Tim Allen, those damn Kardashians-Jenners, Dr Pimple Popper just showing up on my menu screen, and so many more but I hate to bore my friends. Safer at home hasn't worked like I anticipated, spending time with your loved ones, fixing your cars and house. Thank goodness for alcohol. Maybe Shaq could do that commercial?

The thrust plate has a small indented line, about 1/4" long. the cam sprocket has 3 V shaped cuts on the backside for the 3 timing chain adjustments. the line should be a frog hair to the left of the V for proper chain tightness. This is also another indicator of TDC. hope this helps.

The flywheels are all the same size with different dowel locations for 225mm and 240mm clutches, but the larger OD clutch for the Turbos and 2+2 give you more surface area and clamping load, though they are heavier and have more inertia. It's a way to get OE pedal feel and disc material, yet support more HP. A smaller, high performance clutch also works, but at the cost of heavier feel and less progressive take-up.

Grace before the Airplane

The labor cost comes from you, you are the one generating the value 😎 Please send any S30s by all mean, I ship them back within 6 months =P

I had 4 brand new KYB Excel-G as part of the spare parts coming with the car, so I am giving it a shot ! Then the T3 weld-on coil-over kit to be fitted on the original shock housing. We machined and welded metal support ring to sit the coil-over kit (original ones from T3 was not the correct diameter) and made 2 grooves to keep the O-rings in place. I am quite happy with the color theme, now just to confirm if the driving sensations are as pleasant !

This just proves how great a group of friends I have. You are the best and I won't ever forget the kindness I've been shown over the years. Always in debt to this group. I try, all though unsuccessful many times over, and over, to help but I will be here every day. You all are the best, wrenches down. Cliff

@Wally You should consider getting a copy of Tom Monroe's book, How To Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine, if you don't already have it. Lot's of detailed assembly instructions and pictures. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-Publisher/dp/B004X9A0OA

It appears the large end is a crushed tube. Stretching my imagination and making several assumptions (it was a tube, it's not an orig. part), it looks like something I'd fabricate to extend and anchor a cowl drain tube inside the fender.

The damper rubber can fail and the outer pulley will slip. If you were 100% positive that you were at TDC, you would mark a new pulley to know where zero is. All of the timing marks, both cam and ignition, are based on top dead center of #1 on the compression stroke. So, either the damper has failed or you're on the exhaust stroke on #1 or the builder installed the pulley in the wrong spot. Maybe he pushed the key out of its keyway. We were just talking about that possibility in Wally's thread. Anyway, everything starts with TDC on #1, valves closed.

yikes, turning into a cluster. Not sure what the that chunky looking stuff is, second to last pic. is that gasket material? hard to tell what is going on. I think I see the oil pump drive in the 1st pic. the last pic looks ok, but that second to last is just odd. You have a badly positioned key, slinger looks damaged. I would be tempted to just pull the cover and start all over. Making sure the key is correct any junk left over from the old seal is out and take a close up look at the slinger.

If you're sure that the #1 piston (the front piston) is at TDC, and that the camshaft is at "valves closed" on #1 then there are two possibilities for the missing or incorrect timing marks. Some of the aftermarket timing sprockets don't have the notch on the sprocket. They just rely on using the 42 links for installation and there's no way to monitor chain wear over time. So you might have to trust the builder on that. On the damper ignition timing marks you might have the wrong combination timing mark plate/pointer and damper. Some were on the left and some were on the right. jonbill just replied but I'm going to post this anyway.

The woodruff key is present on the crank, so the crank pulley can only go on in one position. And if the engine is at TDC then the crank pulley is in the right position and maybe the pointer is in the wrong position. on earlier engines, the pointer on the timing cover and the pulley marks are on the left (10 oclock) at TDC and on later engines, they're on the right (3 oclock). so it sounds like you've got an early pulley with later timiny cover/timing marks.

You can still purchase Nissan OE seals. I like to go OE whenever that is an option.

Way better than my 7 years... !!!

The small canister hose should hold vacuum at all times. If it doesn't you might want to pop the cap off the carbon canister and have a look around. The big canister hose will not hold vacuum with the engine off. And that's my little bit of confusion about the system. The FSM talks about the large line as being sealed until the control lines opens it, but in my experience, that is not the case. My theory (that I talked about a little earlier) is that the high vacuum source pulled directly from the intake manifold actually helps pull that large line into a closed position. As for the other question about not changing the idle... It's probably because that small line (and the distributor advance) is pulled from a ported vacuum source. And at idle, there's no vacuum so nothing gets pulled into the intake tract. In other words, it's not a vacuum leak on that throttle body nipple unless the throttle blade is in a specific position. At idle, there's no vacuum, and at WOT there's no vacuum. The only time there is vacuum there is at a light cruise position.

Overall restoration (strip down/bodywork/painting/reassembly): USD 25K Interior restoration (seats/dashboard/console/door panels/roof lining): USD 3K Parts+Material: USD 10-12K So in total around USD 40K to have it running again and better than new, so this is comparable, but I do not own all the equipment that you invested in for yours, if you counted it in your total. Labor cost in the UAE is very interesting and even though the workshop I work with is on the expensive side, the quality of execution is much higher than the average here. The issue is obliviously all the shipping time/costs and import taxes from the US to here, but I believe you face the same outrageous rap** to get everything in Canada...

AHHH! I see what you mean by the casting process. Yeah that would be pretty swell. I could have an extra dome light for when this one fails.... (hopefully never) Common Capt. you know you wanna take that old heavy hood off and get some carbon goodness on there 🙂 I used 3mm hardware and some eye terminals to make contact with the “plated” material. I also added the rubber washer that came with the switch and it’s pretty snug now. Tested it out in the car and it works. Just waiting on the LEDs. I went back and added some heat shrink near the terminals just for safety. Keihin carbs on this cb500 actually. It’s not too bad to work on. Dialing in the SU kinda taught me how they work, at least how to approach it. Need more stuff to tinker with, this project was supposed to take longer.

Things I am tired of: US politics, Canadian politics, anti maskers, morons who can't understand basic instructions about how to register for vaccines( BC opened for first public vaccines today, 83,000 people eligible for the first phase, 1.7 million idiots jammed phone lines), Megxit, China. Things I am grateful for: Surviving lung cancer for over a year, my family, being part of a community of like minded enthusiasts who are nothing but helpful and supportive of each other!

Just curious on your suspension plans. What are you going to use for your front and rear strut’s? Factory or an aftermarket version.

I'm sure there's no need to apologize to anyone here. And my condolences to you and your family.

Doing my own wide-band tuning today . Two are better than one !

Love that band! He was a tortured soul as with many musicians. I'll always remember the Cure for Pain disc I played over and over as I went through a break up. This off Yes though but still...damn.

I remember my experiences with my 240Z in the 1970's as my daily driver in a high-density NA city (Toronto). That flywheel was definitely designed by Nissan engineers from a 'mass marketing' perspective. That is, enough mass/momentum to save buyers who were new to the game of low-torque cars with manual transmissions. I hated it and, IMO, they over-did it. However, the sales numbers speak for themselves, don't they?

We lost a real gem when Mark Sandman died.

I had Top End Performance take mine down to about 15 lbs. in my race car. Since it's a race car, I can't say how it is in traffic, but I can't feel any difference in the pits or loading/unloading. You still have a stock flywheel, but without the extra inertia. It's cheaper than buying a new one too.

I e been trying to lay off the beer after work when I’m in the garage... I started drinking chocolate milk. Just need something to take the edge off. 😂😂😂 have you tried jazz? Not all of it is great, sometimes you can find some fire. https://kcsm.org

I have not checked compression yet, I wanted to let the rings seat for a couple hundred miles prior to testing. Probably be a couple weeks, damn job interferes with my play time in the spring! here is a pic before I dropped it in

Without judging in any way,.... what is your total cost of restoration (equivalent US dollars) to get the car from arrival in Dubai to where it will be finished? You are moving so fast!! I'm about $35,000 USD deep into mine and seven years.... Curious to know if the resto costs are comparable there to here...

And I know you don't want to, but this is what I did:

when working on fiddly bits I will hold a small magnet, the kind you use to retrieve stuff on a telescoping rod, next to the item I am working on, if something get loose the magnet tends to grab it.