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Have you seen this yet Ferg? Our man @madkaw running through the gears. Chirping 3rd!

Yep, it's in the BAT thread, too. That business OBVIOUSLY does not do drug testing on its employees because whoever is setting the prices on their cars is on crack.

I also had this same issue. Was driving me nuts. We took the booster off to attempt to open it up. It was then I could hear something loose. We shook it and this rubber disc falls out. I'm going what's that? I had to go to the manual to find out where it went. Reinstalled and put everything back together. Wow what a difference. Back to normal again. Was very happy. Don't know why the boosters were built with that piece installed loose and not fixed in place. Could have save many owners lots of trouble.

Hey, you bought Slimeydime's car! If you bought it for collecting/investing/future resale the best you could do would be to live on the BAT board and see what the collector's critique is on similar cars that come up for sale. One thing that stands out in the pictures is the lack of detailing in the engine bay. The paint on that car is so bright, and the interior so clean, that the brown valve cover and other parts really stands out. Not in a good way. The engine bay looks filthy. No offense to Slimeydime, he probably used it as a driver. One thing that really stands out a good way on your car is the rubber (bumper ends) and vinyl, and the dash. Those parts are typically destroyed by sun and age. Take extra care of those parts, they make the difference, you can't find replacements.

Saw this and thought it was funny. Billy Gibbons of ZZ Top talks about aliens. I trimmed out the good part. https://www.youtubetrimmer.com/view/?v=YQmuibsXoDM&start=2495&end=2551

UPS, or FedEx? I’m currently helping to build another FedEx 767.

I work in the shipping and freight industry as many of you know. We have unprecedented volume right now that we cannot absorb overnight . Pre-Christmas we were at almost full capacity with 80,000 trucks and 621 airplanes. The combination of a steady decline in brick and mortar store sales vs online sales was thrown upside down when COVID hit and as of last week with vaccine shipping taking priority there is only so much freight that can be moved. We are working our tails off to meet demand. We are hiring hundreds pilots in the next year and 1000’s of employees to work ramps and hubs. It’s not easy to expand capacity as rapidly as demand can increase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Frankenstein Yes this fixed my problem. With the booster off the car I was able to shake and look in it and eventually find the disc, then I used a long sewing needle to stick it and carefully extract it. Then super glued it back on to the push rod

Haha!! Not me, but I looked pretty much like that! Only cooler. And slower.

Last thing - many of us have found that any Nissan key will operate the ignition on our Z's. They wear out fast and get loose. I could start my 76 with my 1995 Pathfinder key. So if you have some Nissan keys, or the guy selling the car does, give them a try.

Do it again. This time, though, we want video!

The punch spot is from a previous rebuild and not doing anything. The only spot you can lock the nut is where the groove is on the shaft. Someone has already reused the nut. I would rebuild the transmission and if the nut lines up where it is aready used, then take action the move it to new metal by facing the nut or adding and extra shim.

i got some led off of amazon for like $90 (“vouke H6024 7 inches Round Black Cree LED Headlight High Low Beam fit for Wrangler JK TJ LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 etc, Replace 7 inch Round Sealed Beam Headlamps,Pack of 2” was the full title on amazon) same headlights that the jeep’s use, they’re very bright, but they have a really nice cutoff for the low beams so that unless you’re looking right into it it’s not super blinding, and the high beams are awesome! i drive mostly at night to avoid any people on the roads and they work great, the only downside was figuring out the wiring, because whatever headlight wiring was in my car did not plug in and play with the headlights (the car has had a tough life so it could just be mine that’s wired wierd) but i bought a $3 relay from oriellys and made it work with very minimal wiring skills. the very white tone of the light is also very good for showing the contrast on the road of the minor bumps,cracks and rocks you otherwise wouldn’t see in the daytime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FedEx...our new 767’s are fantastic, keep up the great work. We’re buying a lot of them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry - late nite post on my iPad, must've somehow fat-fingered in an extra comma at the end of the URL. I fixed it in my post above, and here it is again: http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm

There were two different groups of VIN's for Datsun 240Z's produced in 1969. One for the Left Hand Drive models and another for the Right Hand Drive Models; HLS30 and HS30. Both had their own series of chassis serial numbers. Because all new cars offered for sale in the USA were required by Federal Law to have their Date Of Manufacture (DOM) affixed to the car; the Left Hand Drive HLS30's produced in 1969 can be individually identified if their original DOM Data Tags are still on them. It would seem that some 543 240Z'z were completed in 1969. Best guess is that 2 or 3 of them were HS30's with the remainder being HLS30's. The first 13 HLS30's were not sold to the public. Because the units were not completed in perfect serial number order, there are a few with VIN's higher than #543, that were also completed in 1969. (as shown above with #587 being completed in 12/69) http://zhome.com/History/69ZArticle.html FWIW, Carl B.

640 in Jan 1970

Oops! Missed it.

so i painted the car about 2 weeks ago, and it looks really good and i’m happy with it. also be weary with the mask you use and make sure your filters are good even if they’re brand new, i used some brand new organic vapor cartridges which were recommended for what i’m doing and should have been more than capable of filtering, but one failed and i was blowing purple snot for 3 days on top of the side effects from the chemical exposure. i do have a lil touch up i have to do along the roofline from my trim coming off and disappearing into the wind, but it’s largely unnoticed and i can always fix it later. first time driving it i was very excited and immediately got pulled over, just a warning but i’m now on a first name basis with the cop. i also dropped the gas tank below the car and lowered the cg which improved handling tremendously. with regards to the paint quality, the finish is good, but there is some minor orange peel in the clear coat that will buff right out, and i made the mistake of not allowing enough flashtime between coats for the clear (my first time ever painting my car) and as a result the clear is still fairly soft, but should harden up soon. i’ve been keeping it in a heated barn at night to help keep it warm while the solvent evaporates from the paint and hardens the clear. overall i’m very happy with the car, and i’m very excited to drive it more. it rarely gets below freezing where i live so the car will be fun to drive around during christmas break. i’m also gonna try and pull the engine sometime soonish and rebuild it with better cylinder heads and set it up to take some nitrous, my goal is around 450hp with air and 500-550+ on the sauce. i almost never do drag launches so i think my diff will be able to handle the higher power. i also have new tires and a proper roll cage happening before the engine gets faster. i’m really excited about this build, and i’m really happy with how it looks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, he definitely put that 280 through its paces on that outing, Did you see that tach bounce off the stops during the u-turn. That’s driving like you stole it. I hope yours wasn’t like an a scene from Driving Miss Daisy, Was this more like it Bruce?

The Art of the Deal.

@patcon, I saw your post earlier today and was wondering the same thing. I have a 4-speed in the shed, will try to find time to have a look. I haven’t started on my wide ratio yet, and I know mine came from a 79 ZX. It will be interesting to see whether mine has a RH or LH nut. This page has some interesting data, http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm and the company itself sells recycled parts. For what it’s worth, my transmission guy said they were very helpful in finding a “good” input shaft for my close ratio. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

That is the correct nut for your main shaft. It is an M27x1.00mm right hand thread nut. It fits all the 5 speeds FS5W71B from 1977 to 1980. After 1980 the nut changed to left hand thread. I think that is when they also changed the 5th synchro. I think fibre synchro is right hand thread and brass synchro is left hand thread. You don't need to replace it. There is a trick to recover an old nut and safely reuse it. The section that is hammered down to lock it in place doesn't have any thread inside. It doesn't add any strength to the nut, just a way to lock it in place. Remove the nut using a small srewdriver or similar, you can drive it in between the nut and shaft to open it enough to remove it without too much damage. Side the nut over something like a socket in a bench vice and use a small hammer to peen around the burred section. You want to get it to point where it doesn't bind too much when you screw it on. When you rebuild the transmission and fit the nut. Tighten the nut and check where the burred section lines up. It probably won't line up with the groove, but if it does then have the face contacting the gear hub washer machined 0.5mm. This will turn the nut 180 degrees to the groove. Every 0.25mm will move the nut 90 degrees around the shaft, 1mm being the pitch. You can do this with the overdrive nut as well.

Okay, I stumbled on a video that can only be our beloved Captain Obvious taking his Z on the last dive of the season through the rolling hills of eastern PA.

I think that rich powerful people generally think of the "rest of us" as a herd. A work force to be managed. So a few of the herd get damaged or die, there's plenty more to take their place.

When you put things back together use this stuff. No more fused in threads. I use it on eveything, pretty much everything.

The surface area of the rust that's bonding the shock cartridge to strut casing is huge, so I'm not surprised that it won't budge. You'd probably need to combine all of the strategies suggested by the members here and then add a lot of heat, too. I think you made the right decision in the end.

I've been using Carbotech on the race car. They have different compounds depending on how you drive. Give them a call and they can help you out. They're family run and you'll probably talk to the owner, wife or son. It's nice dealing with the people who actually make the stuff. Chuck

It was freezing outside but I had to open the garage door to air it out, I wish I could have grabbed the camera faster, it was a little mushroom cloud.