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Heat it up, put it between two 3/4" sheets of plywood, then park your Z on it for a week. 😉 Time and temp will flatten it as well!

I work with CAD Drawings and renderings daily in my work life and always wanted to learn how to draw them. When i realized i need those 240Z Tank rubber pieces redone and probably should make a nice drawing, that seemed like the perfect occasion to download FreeCAD and spend an hour on youtube watching beginners guide to CAD Drwaing. I'm used to electronis CAD programs so it's not completely new, allthough i've never designed something 3D. Until today. I got the hang for simple basics pretty fast and here i have my first design for the rubber piece: Of course this is something stupidly simle. but just perfect for a total newbie like me. And it will give my rubber-shop a better idea of what they have to make for me 🙂 So after all i'm pretty proud and i hope i can improve my skills in other occasions soon. at least i've got the idea about what the CAD Designers in my company do all day now 🙂

How much are you going to share with the original owner?

Thank you all for your interest in this remarkable car. I am super thrilled with the auction, but very sad to think my girl will be leaving home. I have enjoyed every minute of time I spent with her the last year and a half. This is a journey I will never forget - and it has nothing to do with the auction. It's about THIS car. A car that should not exist. A car that fought and won against the invasion of rust and corrosion as she sat in an uninsulated garage for 44 years. A car that was immune to the invasion of mice and other pests. A car that retained her youthful softness and flexibility in every piece of rubber and vinyl. A car that never lost her shine and glow in every body panel and piece of chrome. A car with a heart of fire and fuel that refused to give up. But more than anything else, she became MY car for a brief period of time. That is what I will always remember. That is the legacy of my car. Steve

I recommend disconnecting the choke cables and throttle pedal linkage so there is no pressure on the SU linkages.

Thanks for all your help guy's @EuroDat @Zed Head @pogden, I feel more at ease, and not feeling like I got bamboozled 🤣.

That was it thank you! Now to tune the carbs!!! Thank you all for your help 🙂

Yes that is holding your throttle open. The part on the left and attached to the SU should go between the two pieces on the right.

It's not too hard to check the ratios. Put it in fifth, mark the ends of the shafts and give one input turn. .745 is before 3/4, .773 is after. But yours has the reverse lockout plate, which only came on the later 81-83 units. So it's almost certainly the .745 5th.

Well, that explains a lot! Those headlights are excellent. We are very fortunate to have them - I applied 3M headlight film over mine to prevent rock chips or breakage.

Mine did that after I rebuilt the motor and put everything back together. I got the linkage flats beside the carbs in the wrong order. Shot up to 3K at start up. Here's a picture you can double check yours to. Good luck.

Yes, heel and toes part are in black so you know which is which.

I may have to come back to this thread. In my '83 ZXT I am fortunate to have one of the few remaining pairs of Cibie Z-beam headlights, which have a wonderful lens and reflector design. The light is quite good and the distance is excellent with standard halogen lamps. I do note that the lens on my Cibies look almost identical to the lens on the PIAA headlights in post #26. I've always noticed that on high beams, I can actually see the lines on the Cibie lenses projected onto the road ahead. Therefore, I expect that those PIAA lights work very well indeed! It probably would be good for me to do the relay thing with the ZX, but that's future business for now.

I did the relay method too. Picked up the stock headlight harness to arm the relay. Routed an 8 gauge wire from the battery to a water proof box containing 4 relays. High beam, low beam, driving lights and then electric fans. Cibie glass and PIAA Superbrights H4s H4

Thank you all for your interest in this remarkable car. I am super thrilled with the auction, but very sad to think my girl will be leaving home. I have enjoyed every minute of time I spent with her the last year and a half. This is a journey I will never forget - and it has nothing to do with the auction. It's about THIS car. A car that should not exist. A car that fought and won against the invasion of rust and corrosion as she sat in an uninsulated garage for 44 years. A car that was immune to the invasion of mice and other pests. A car that retained her youthful softness and flexibility in every piece of rubber and vinyl. A car that never lost her shine and glow in every body panel and piece of chrome. A car with a heart of fire and fuel that refused to give up. But more than anything else, she became MY car for a brief period of time. That is what I will always remember. That is the legacy of my car. Steve

I agree 100%. I just hope we can stay somewhat informed on this remarkable car. I don't know if Nissan has an American museum but this one deserves a spot for sure.

I've spent a lot of time at that track. My Dad carried me to the time trials on Friday, skipping school. When I got my license he could drink some beers and let me be the designated driver. That was funny! I raced at the motorcycle track down there we called Little Tally. It was the w.e.r.a series. I ran a gsxr 750 and won a couple but the crack dealers won mostly. More money, better bikes. I've done the ride around twice and it was like $100 each time. It amazed me how steep those turns are going in. Some back up driver with a passenger's seat in the car about 160, 175mph. When I was younger the infield was wild as hell. Unbelievable what they used to do inside. Dunebuggys, falling down drunks were everywhere. Amazing what a lawsuit can change. Those were the 200mph and over days. Bill Elliott was the king then.

I agree, the price seems just about right for both parties. I was glad to see that the reserve was set a reasonable amount for this beautiful 280Z. It will be interesting to see what the auction winner does with the car - does he drive the car every once in a while or will this car be a trailer queen that is just towed to car shows? It will also be interesting to see what becomes of one of the lowest mileage classic sports cars in the world.

I've posted the Z elsewhere here, a picture of it with the race Z from a long time ago in my introductory post way back when, and most recently when I was in the first quarantine and I pulled it out of the back corner of the shop I started a build thread, and posted in the what the hell did I do today thread. By the way, you live close to this: Talladega Banking At 155mph by Racer, on Flickr Taken by yours truly, riding with Jeffery Earnhardt at 155. I was there with the Guacamole Express when I drove big trucks. It was right after the tornado ripped through Birmingham, and I was camped out at the nearby truckstop resetting my hours, so I bobtailed over to the speedway. The lady at the museum and hall of fame said I could take my car out on the track for a donation to the tornado victims. My truck wouldn't fit through the tunnel, so I got the ride in the Camaro pace car with the Earnhardt grandson. Jeffery Earnhardt by Racer, on Flickr Pretty cool, eh?

Well I figured out my green/white wire heating up with lights on issue. I noticed the heat really was starting at the plastic connector at the bottom of the steering wheel. I inspected it and there was a brown burn mark. I cut the green white wires on both sides of the connector and spliced in a new wire to connect them bypassing the wire harness connector. Now no more heat.. maybe it was a poor connection in the connector causing resistance. I am going to still change to LED though thank you ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. I did that too. Awesome upgrade from H4's. So bright I had to make sure my headlights were aimed properly... 😎

$140,000 hammer, congrats! Hope we see the buyer here too.

Small project completed tonight, rebuilding the rear brake cylinders and rear struts. Couple quick shots of the completed struts with hardware and shoes. I'll post some more in depth pictures of the entire assemblies before and after.

don’t worry about it @AK260 in a way this is pretty directly related to what I was asking (or at least to the reason why I was asking the question) so it’s all worked out

Sit in a chair and watch a movie, put a towel across your lap and start rubbing the cam with a scotch brite. No need to rush... after a few days of leisurely scrubbing, it will sparkle.

I find this picture very disappointing. The haphazard alignment and uneven spacing of the holes points to poorly thought out construction and poor craftsmanship. Sure the body is lighter, and well above the center of gravity where it counts, but is it as strong? How much chassis flex is attributed to that mess?

Be careful. I see a socket lurking...

But the vapor doesn't do the work. There is no "blasting" by vapor. Vapor is a byproduct. It's appropriate for getting attention I guess. Good luck with it. Dustless media blasting is the most appropriate term, I think, for people who know how things work. No offense. Maybe I've learned too much about science and technology to let it slide. Understanding is important, especially in today's world. .

I have had success on the rebuild of the clutch pedal pivot, and the brake pedal pivot by default as they use the same parts for the pivots. I used ZM 1519-16 Powdered Metal Bronze Sleeve Bearing Metrics from American Sleeve Bearing on line. I had to order 8 each to meet their minimum order amount. "P/M bronze stock items are manufactured of pressed copper and tin powders and impregnated with lubricating oil. They are intended by design to be self lubricating, maintenance free and low cost. Standard material specifications include: SAE 841, ASTMB 438 Grade 1 Type II, MIL-B-5687D Type 1 Grade 1, CuSn 6-6-3, Sint B 50 Standard impregnating oil conforms to SAE 30 specifications but product is also regularly supplied with special oils such as Mil-L-6085, Mil-L-17731." I used 12mm ID x 15mm stainless steel tubing to make new sleeves, 45mm long each. This tubing is not manufactured to a tight tolerance and I had to ream the tubing out to 12mm ID to fit the bolt. The OD of the tubing was also slightly to large to fit into the bearing by a couple of thousands. Chucked the tubes in my wood lathe and reduced the OD to fit into the sleeve bearing with some emery paper testing the fit as I went. The bronze sleeve bearings were an easy bench vise press into the pedal, the 16mm length is not a problem.

What is a Nos lizzy? Sounds kind of nasty...

You need to test it first. Make sure you get your eyes to bug out like the picture. There's an illustration of the filter change also. This is from 1976.