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They definitely more red than the air cleaners. Very red. Just did a little test. Ford Red from Duplicolor is VERY close. The hue and overall shade feels really close to the original. Fresh spray on the right, old patina on the left of the square drive hole...

Maybe when June rolls around and your wife's honey-do list has finally been cleared and we're still locked down, you could spend some quality time inventorying your unwanted parts and putting them up for sale here on the CZCC virtual 'yard'. Might raise enough cash to pay for that that epoxy floor coating you've been promising yourself for the garage. Or maybe some of that cool, rich-guy modular flooring laid down in a chequered flag pattern? Or a giant 'Z'.

zKars had a great thought using rubber "O" rings on the outside of the site glasses to mark the desired fuel level. I headed down to my local hardware store to look for a pair that would be the right size. For those interested in doing the same, the size I found that seems to work well is 3/16" x 5/16" x 1/16." It's a stretch fit, but they will likely stay put as a result. The only down side is they are 1/16" thick so you can't see the whole tube. I intentionally did not scribe or mark lines when designing the tool as I know some may want to experiment with different levels. The "O" rings are a nice solution, as they can be easily moved to suit individual users.

Rebuild my primary distributor is complete. Came out pretty good, everything spins freely and gaps look even. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They look Klingon origin?

Here is a look at the holders that I made.

Word on the street is that @jfa.series1 is busy removing corrosion and contaminates from Z parts....he probably will not have his "paint application" hat on until the weekend!!

I've always read chevy orange for the air filters was close enough for a driver, no judges. That handle is the same I believe. Maybe @jfa.series1 knows? He probably bought the real deal from datsunspirit or banzi though knowing his awards. 8^)

No, remembering virus protein signatures is a feature of the immune system, not a characteristic of the virus.

Sorry, I missed this earlier note from @grannyknot. Wish I could remember where I got my gauge chart from (it dates back several years). The discrepancy between GK's values and those from my chart are large, so I just went looking for another source and came up with this one from machinemfg.com (website for a machine manufacturer). I wouldn't call it a definitive source, but the values coincide with the chart that I posted... www.machinemfg.com/sheet-metal-gauge-sizes-chart-inch-mm/#Sheet_metal_GAUGE_thickness_chart So then I searched for a chart for the American Wire Gauge (AWG) and discovered that its values agree with GK's... www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm None of my sources are definitive. If someone wants to post the tables from an accepted engineering reference like Shigley's, that would resolve the issue once and for all (I never could afford that book when I was in school and just used my employer's copy after I got out into the workforce). It appears, though, that we've tripped over yet another facet of wacky world of 'gauge' measurements -- that is, that gauges have different 'thickness' values, depending on whether you're looking a wire diameter vs. sheet thickness. Another vote in favor of metric.

Here’s some pics:

And use a piece of metal shaped like a (side) banana peel.. sort of.. why? The upper piece will bend as you hit it with a big hammer. And make it square after you made the big dent.. think about it, you'll get the picture. (make the edges with a chisel (for steel obviously… my translator could give no good word for it but i mean the chisel that you use for breaking stone walls and can be used to make a nice edge in sheet metal.) Also use some clamps and then make the bend.. or whatever you need to do. Btw, i think it's a good idea to make a special topic on these things, or make a list with where one can find certain "make it yourself" substitute parts.. Back to GAUGE's and inches and millimeters!! ?

Lined up and clamped the rear quarter panels in place ... and then replaced each clamp with a Cleco ... Then same drill on the driver's side ... It's starting to feel like working on an actual car ...???

View of the wheel houses through the hatch ... View from underneath ... Done ... next just have to drill and Cleco the quarter panels ...

So now that the dog legs are fixed, I can final fit the rear quarters and the wheel house repair panels. The plan is to fit them and Cleco them in place and then weld and panel bond them in place when the car is on the rotisserie. It's tricky because the quarter panel and the door edge and the wheel house all need to line up perfectly... First, the wheel house .... before...pretty rotted ... I decided it would be simple to cut back to good metal and section in the new wheel house. Cut line (one metal ruler width from the flange)... Same width cut on the new wheel house patch ... I put a flange on the new sections and Cleco'd them in. They will get lap welded in place once the car is on the rotisserie....

I used a gallon paint can stir stick under the float mounting bracket. They fit good and are soft wood. Slide one under there and push down the tang with your finger. When it looks like this you should be very close. Good luck.

The top of the rectangular block on the side of the bowl is very close.

Perfect advice on the rear stub axle retaining nut! Used the Dremel tool to cut off the flat areas of the nut, mounted the whole assembly back onto the rim, stood the tire up and wedged it with a jack stand, and had no luck with the 4 ft cheater pipe on the breaker bar. A couple minutes of heat from the torch and it broke free quite easily with the cheater pipe and unthreaded smoothly off with just the breaker bar. Next step is to remove the splined flange and see about removing the stub axle. Not sure if my slide hammer will do the job or may have to invest or borrow a larger press. I just have a small 1 ton hand arbor press which is usually adequate for most of my projects. Thanks again for the great tips. Slowly making progress on this resurrection project. Thanks, John.

I really like this idea and hadn't thought to make a wood form to hammer over. Thanks for sharing this.

I did that on the 77 280 and turned out quite presentable. Only another Z guy would take a 2nd look.

Yes it does look a lot like there’s but I built my own and also made my own hole holders to keep wires apart.

I got a prototype on my hands super easy install I would say maybe 15 minutes max and then some time to adjust your timing. Here are some pictures. Overall very impressed heavy duty product and I recommend it! I was easily able to put my timing where ever I wanted it when previously my lockdown screw was at the very end of adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flying!

Don't Google "240z factory restoration program" because the "factory" didn't "restore" them. Let's get that misconception cleared up right away! Short answer; Nissan USA hired a number of "contractors" to recondition previously sold 240zs and then sold them through selected dealers with 12 month / 12,000 mile warranties. Many many parts were replaced in the process but the speedometers were not replaced in all cases and odometers were not reset to 0 miles.