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Agree with what was said above. That book will walk you completely through tear down then rebuild yourself. There's a few things you have to take to a machine shop and get done but I got out cheap there, about $200 if I remember right. Take tons of pictures and write everything down you may not be sure about. A roll of cheap painters tape was a big help for me on the connections, wiring and plug-ins. You can do both sides with a piece of tape then add 1 & 1 or A & A. Get a box of quart size zip-locs for all the nuts and bolts then write what it is on a piece of paper then drop it inside the bag. I wrote on the outside with a Sharpie, bad idea as it smeared off. A gallon of lacquer thinner and some small brass wire brushes for cleaning from your local hardware store is about as cheap as you'll find. Cheap spray on oven cleaning foam also works good. It's like $.99 at walmart. A few 5 gallon buckets will be useful too. All 6 pistons fit perfect in the bottom for me, poured about 2 inches of lacquer thinner in there and they came out like new. Read, read and read. You'll see something helpful every time, have fun young man! Here's a days worth... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=ueSNXvXSLrCwytMPxNeXiA0&q=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&oq=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQA0oJCBcSBTEyLTc1SgkIGBIFMTItMTNQqKsBWP7KAWDq1gFoAHAAeACAAWSIAbsHkgEEMTIuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwi1k876idnoAhUwmHIEHcTrBdEQ4dUDCAw&uact=5

My new shopping look! Especially when someone coughs!!!!

It seems to spray on thicker than any primer I have used, rattle can or gun. A trick used with this spray putty was to spray the area and than directly after a very quick wave over with black primer. The idea is not to coat it with black, but to give it a speckle so when you block sand you can quickly see the low spots. Those spots gef a recoat and again with black primer.

I initially bought M8 wing nuts, but they are quite a bit bigger than the M6 which are pretty much identical to the OEM wings (other than the silver zinc finish). I can these as an option however, as they would be much easier to tighten and loosen than the stock size wing nuts. I must be spending too much time with my Grand daughter and the Disney+ movies. All I see is

The product I use is the brand Motip https://www.ts24.nl/product_info.php/info/141299/MoTip-Spuitplamuur/?pla_source=14&gclid=CjwKCAjw7LX0BRBiEiwA__gNw2FhZ5mUh_K5KI3XxirtSWVF8Ho3S-RaN6UBna96oFDzaxyvTTp8rhoChWIQAvD_BwE There are other brands https://www.nonpaints.com/en/1k-spray-putty-in-aerosol-spraymax

Proof of concept. top is OEM, center is my forgery, bottom is the component parts that you start with. The wing nut is an M6 x 1.0 so I remove the hex head of a bolt, turn it down then run a die over it to thread. Today I will experiment with ways to permanently affix the wing nut to the bolt. Red Locktite, welding, silver soldering are all options. Sort of the same issue about the lower bolt that forms the threaded leg of hex coupler. It is threaded in 3 threads, then presently a thin nut is used to lock it in place. I would prefer to weld that in. I will likely TIG it on, then turn it smooth over the weld area.

So I’ve made some good progress rebuilding this distributor. The Atlanticz rebuild instructions are fantastic. So I have carcasses and parts from 3.5 distributors (One I cannibalized in the yard because it was frozen to the front cover) I have 3 vacuum advance assemblies. I bench tested them and 2 of 3 were bad. The good one looks rough...very rusty but it holds vac pressure and the plunger moves and holds. I’m actually building 2 distributors, one a a primary and the other as a back up. I went online to hunt down a new vacuum advance. Of course they’re no longer in stock anywhere. The part number is 22301-p7900 or 7901. I did find some that look identical, Stanza and 200sx. Parts numbers are different, but part looks exactly the same, not sure if those would work, look at links below. first eBay link is titles 22301-p7901 but on the phone it has a different part number on the box 22301-D2100 https://www.ebay.com/p/1173306983 Another website says I can use a Standard Motor Product part VC351. See this link, at the bottom is talks about different Nissan Vaccum advances compatibility with Standard Brand. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Late-model_Vacuum_Advance What do you guys think?

I like the second table, esp. the fact that the standard dates back to 1922 and therefore encompasses the period when the S30 was being built. It indicates that the 1.1mm thickness offered by contemporary supplier Parker Steel (see my earlier entry in this thread) is not really relevant to the sheet used for the S30 body panels. It looks, instead, like 1.2mm (0.0472") would be closer to the truth. The JFE brochure provides some interesting insights into the cross-section of sheet steels available to modern-day automotive/manufacturing engineers for body pressings. With techniques like hydroforming and materials like high-strength and ultra-high-strength now available, things are a lot different than they were back in 1969.

It's About Time?

Never under estimate the power of well applied bondo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

grab a copy of this https://www.ebay.com/itm/How-To-Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-OHC-Engine-Book-ISBN-0895863537/143572353532?hash=item216d9441fc:g:H3kAAOSwdIVeZXSZ that ebay listing for the book is pretty cheap... If you are new around motors, check out some of the 10X videos from Whats the status of the motor? do you have it in a stand? Is it cleaned up? did you do a compression test // leakdown test on it? I grabbed a concrete mixing tub a couple years ago when i was building my motor, and just lets the droppings / liquids fall into the tub. Helps when you want to clean your trans, or diff too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-Black-Large-Concrete-Mixing-Tub-887102C/205451585 And a big bag of coffee filters (fiber free, easier to see the dirt, and cheap) and start cleaning, keep cleaning as you go. you probably want a turbo, i want a turbo.

And welded up the DS as well ....a bit of Bondo and she'll be good as new(ish) ...

Cost north of $60K? More than that. Yep. I’m embarrassed with the final numbers, but it sure looks like showroom again, even the underside is awesome. Approved by my wife!

I got a prototype on my hands super easy install I would say maybe 15 minutes max and then some time to adjust your timing. Here are some pictures. Overall very impressed heavy duty product and I recommend it! I was easily able to put my timing where ever I wanted it when previously my lockdown screw was at the very end of adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's a pretty air tight case.

There are no stupid questions about this. At the very end, the doc says some stuff about what happens with this virus long term. The detail I picked out is that all the viruses, including all the variants of the common cold, become weaker with time, and simply enter the rotation of viruses we already have anti-bodies to, and if you do get it, it will be no more severe than the average cold. This particular one is just new, so NO ONE has immunity yet (well, some do now....) and it’s a bit of a nasty one, spreads easily (no kidding), and it’s killing lots of folks. So until we control it short term (distancing, wash hands, NTDF (no toucha da face)), a vaccine finally gets distributed, and enough time passes, the danger persists. As to origin, good luck ever learning the truth about that one. Viruses have been coming to reality for a long time with no Intentional human interference. The whole mutation thing. New ones pop up all the time. Very few get out into the general population the way this one did. Hopefully we are learning what to do (And not do) next time.

I was out driving the other day and found a car lot with all right hand drives. This was among them and I thought how cool would it be to show up at ZCon driving this beauty! No, I didn't buy it..

It would go nicely with Dan Banks's fire truck. http://cincyconcours.com/largeimage.asp?txt_image=_DSC2518&txt_year=2011

A $3000 dollar investment is ridiculously small for Trump. Not even worth mentioning. That's a nice bottle of wine for guys at this level. It would be like mentioning I bought a six pack last night. It would be small for most normal investors. Just another chance to take a swipe at the president. If reporters went after both parties equally, it wouldn't bother me so much. However that will probably never be the case since 90+% of the media are Democrats I am tied of people in this thread taking swipes at the president and touting other politicians as being totally on the ball. I have watched many of the presidential updates and I don't see them the way some others view them. I voted for the man once and I will be again! I suspect the overwhelming silence from others on the forum suggests that others might feel the same way...

Turn the key, Turn the key!

Here are a few references regarding Japanese cold finished sheet steel thicknesses and tolerances. JFE CR Steel Sheet [Japan].pdf

I did my best to take the measurement where it was clean bare metal on both sides. Here is a picture from the underside. No sanding has been done, just solvent cleaning after removal of undercoating and the tar mat inside.

How to be first in line when you hear that the price of a gallon of gas just dropped below $1.00. Dennis VID-20190618-WA00291.mp4

Brilliant! I was lucky enough to meet some guys over here at the phillip island historics last month who made the trip from NZ who were big fans of yours!

You mean like these, recently removed from my '73? <grin> (this brand name was well known in the '70s and 80s, but has now disappeared completely)