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https://twitter.com/jheil/status/1233077802553028609

Don't hold your breath, on second thought that might be a good idea.

I sure hope VP Pence gets this Corona virus under control before ZCON.

Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.

probably from the same seller of the original fake hubcaps that sold on ebay. I did read a review that some of the hubcaps flew off the car while driving.

And just in case everyone isn't already tired of talk about pulling main bearing caps, here's what I did for the remaining (2, 3, 5, 6) caps. I grabbed some steel rod just slightly larger OD than the bolt holes through the caps. Turned them down a small amount so they just barely slipped into the bolt holes. Here's the pair of them, You can see the machined ends at the bottom: Slip the pair of them into the holes like so: And when you squeeze them together, they pretty much lock into the holes giving you a handle to wiggle a little bit and easily pull the caps up off the block: Sure, I could have just tapped them with a hammer and used the original cap bolts to wiggle the caps off, but for ten minutes of invested time, now I've got handles.

The edge fingers at the hole are not like any of the original pictures I have but they do closely match the early poor-quality fakes from 2 years ago but they better match Terrapin originals. I think they are real or a very good reproduction. The IKI stamp and Made in Japan require further exploration. I'll check mine in the garage and get back. Circa 1970 version 1 Circa 1970 version 2 2020 2018 fake

I got the carburetors, manifold etc. back from Paltech. Sent these away about a month ago, along with some extra parts to get plated. They look really awesome. I am very excited to see they came out this nice. I am hoping that the quality of the machine work to put in new bushings and shafts, plates, etc. is very high quality. Everything feels really tight and looks great. The domes are more polished than they should be for original appearance, but I didn't specify not to polish them, nor am I trying to build a top tier show car. So, can't fault him for making them "too nice". Soooooooo, here are the pics! In the last pic above, I have a question. I only have three of the four original style hose clamps for the fuel supply hoses (from fuel rail to each carb) and those are pictured. However, I think the original color of these shouldn't be gold "cad". Is the original color on these supposed to be silver? It's my screw up if so, but I may need to get them re-plated. Also, I need to track down a fourth!

I have a couple I believe are original, The have the punched valve stem hole like Kats made note of. A makers country of orgin stamping on the side IKI MADE IN JAPAN. Inked markings inside. They are rough I know......

I was in Lisbon in 2018 and bought some NOS parts from a nice previous z owner. It was a 1974. He shared these photos:

Hi! I'm Mário and I'm from Portugal...recently I restores my Z...a Portuguese one! Well, I learn a lot reading this topic, and I found some interesting features, like the 432 suspension and many other details. I can confirm about the stabilizer bars sizes and all extras our Portuguese Z's have! It's very interesting because my Z is the lowest vin in Portugal, sold and registered in August 71, but the manufacture month is March. There are 70 Z's sold in this year (71) and all with lowest vins...mine is HLS30U-23644...there are several diferences from the others sold during 72 and in the end by 73. Mine has rear and front spoiler, vertical defrost lines, kobe seiko wheels, blue windows, two interior air buttons, passenger foot rest, different gear box, 1st series center console, plastic engine ventilator, engine bay light, 71 vertical antena radio and many more...above the gloves compartment there are 4 letter, and accordong to a doce, they, the portuguese Z's, where specific for our market...but it's hard to find such information. From 71 to 73 only 139 were sold...these days, less than 45 are running... here are some photos of my Z...It's all std...no modifications...even the engine and compartment parts.

Hi everyone, Decided to post my current build . I started this project back in July of 2017, my initial expectation was to build a nice somewhat daily driver and possibly do a few track days. This is my first attempt to restoring a vehicle, prior to this I've never attempted anything remotely as complex as this. As always what I thought would be a simple project ended up being a much bigger task. I started with a $200 flux core welder and ended up borrowing @grannyknot Miller welder, that alone made a massive difference and cannot thank him enough for all the help and guidance through out this build. Details of what came with the vehicle when purchased. -L28 fully rebuild (according to the seller) -5 speed transmission out of 86 300zx -R200 rear differential 3.54 ratio My current plan is to build a period looking 240z with a few mods here and there such as, z432 rear spoiler, xenon front air dam and recently purchased used rs watanabe's 15x7. I will be posting pictures as this build continues to evolve.

Here is my title registration...some fields are scratched on purpose... You can see the suffix "U" when related to Model...but the vin is HLS30-xxxxx without the suffix... Now, I'll search for the glovebox photos...10 minutes again...ahahaha

Here I let you a document that proves that you're right...even the 260's are "Q". This document is related to imports to Portugal...as you can state, 71 has 70 z's imported, 72 - 25 Z's and 73-44 Z's... But a small and little detail, the 70 Z's from 1971, only 40 were sold in this year, the other 30 left were sold during 72... Mine is from March (1971) and was registered on the 27th August. I'll send you now the title...10 minutes...

I have some photos on my glovebox and it's written with 3 letters and 2 numbers...I'm actually searching for the photos! But I'll upload the title with the suffix "U"...but you're right...they're "Q"...now I remember of something I have that was shared by someone that was connected to Entreposto...I'll upload right away!!! Yes, I have! I'll have to find them...but it will be easy...I've all organized!!! Just have to look at my discs. Thanks. I guess we've talked on another forum about this case and letters! But you're right...they're "Q" but the title says "U"...I'll upload the clues...even under the glovebox...just trying to find the photos...10 minutes...ok! I've here a nice document! Regards Mário

I don’t know if I would characterize the dizzies as unreliable , but it is old stuff . I think if you had a spare module on hand and cleaned the dizzie up well you should be okay. The module failing is probably the only thing that will disable you - vs a sticky vacuum advance . In the end , even with rebuilding everything you can - it’s still (car)a mechanical item and there’s Murphy’s law - and it’s over 45 years old .

I like the point about the tunnel shape . That is a big deal compared to what’s available now . Zed Findings floors are well made but don’t follow the tunnel shape correctly on the early Z .

Thanks for the heads up. I am planning to proceed very cautiously. The interior is perfect except for the strips. I've had the car since new and it was only not garaged for 2 months when first purchased. It has been garaged since then.

MSA ceramic coated headers did the job for me, followed up with 2.5" exhaust. badabing. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6012CH

Ask him what, exactly, he does. And if his price includes the ignition module. I posted in your other thread, a Standard brand ignition module can cost $140. You might be up to $340 by the time it's ready to use.

I agree with those above, I think they are really good reproductions based only on the pic's. "If it looks too good to be true....." Especially if the seller is being elusive. JMHO.

My BS detector goes off loud when I see those too although I don't have any specific tell to point to that is a clear indication they are repros. I do worry that it seems the people who are making these are simply getting better at fixing their mistakes and making the repros harder to distinguish from the original versions. I suspect the chatter here pointing out the differences is allowing them to monitor this thread (and maybe others like it) and use the info within to improve the parts. Double edge sword... Better repros that are virtually indistinguishable from the originals are a good thing. But if they are sold claiming to be NOS parts made by the original manufacturer, it's a lie and should not be allowed.

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I’d like to run this engine prior to install. Some much easier to address problems Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Mário , thank you so much for joining here ! One day I will visit Portugal to see your beautiful car! Alan explains perfectly, “ U “ means USA and Canada and some .And first of all, the test report had indicated “ HLS30Q (Europe version) “ as a title , so it is very clear about your car is HLS30Q . Here is a good example for it . Kats

Hi , I am still feeling the driver’s seat looked different from the passenger’s seat . This picture makes me wonder if our seats would have changed its shape in 1970 , the BAT green car seems to have the seat just like this black seat in the driver’s seat maybe produced in later 1970 . The seat back has different shape than the earlier one especially around the shoulder area . Kats

Feb 2018 fakes:

I don't know. I would guess - as per thread title - that it was 'HLS30Q', plus - it seems likely - an extra letter identifier for the Portuguese sub-variant, because they were unique in certain details. Maybe something like 'HLS30QU' or 'HLS30QE' (for the well-regarded 'Entreposto') would have worked. 'HLS30U' just doesn't make sense as an identifier for the Portuguese market variants. Nissan tended not to share 'Katashiki' codes across variants that were quite different, and - as we know - 'HLS30U' was the base code for the North American market models, with extra suffixes for further sub-variants. Why would Nissan risk confusing matters by also using 'HLS30U' for the Portuguese market cars? I've often asked for evidence of factory codes from glovebox bases on Portuguese market cars, which might give useful clues, but nothing forthcoming so far.

And yet I've never seen it on any official Nissan documentation with regard to the Portuguese market cars. Personally speaking, I don't usually trust titles/registration documentation for the Export cars. They are - by their nature - local bureaucracy and subject to all sorts of personal failings. My 1970 Fairlady Z-L was registered here in the UK as a 'Fairlady Turbo' simply because the person at the government agency who issued its documentation chose the wrong model from their list. Wrong, but 'official' and now set in stone.

It was like pulling teeth to get the seller to send me these last 3 pictures that are just a little more closer up. I don't see the "IKI Made In Japan" stamped anywhere that Terrapin Z mentioned. The seller also told me that the set of 4 are original. What do you think of these last 3 pictures?

I think the carbs look great! The polished domes don't bother me one bit

Awesome! This car still exists and it was red when new!!! It's vin is HLS30-092212 and is a 72. Until now he had 12 owners ans the last one until the moment is from 1998, and the engine number is L24-116221...so cool to see old photos!!! ahahah... Here we had many parts, but now all has to be bought online from Japan or USA, because Nissan Ibérica is not dealing right with old cars, unfortunately!

Buyer beware.

Are they claimed to be original or reproductions? Perhaps ask for a higher resolution photo of this area and we can tell. The photos above are too small to see details.

Perfect! Haha!! "Crank" that sucker in there!

What I would have used, had I known it was M16 x 1.5, ?

It's been a while since my last post. I finally got the Z back mid January and made some progress. Brake lines complete and suspension installed Engine bay harness installed. I still have to figure out the engine bay relay's as they did not come with the car for some reason. Trying out this new window gasket from Spaenaur #825-065 as my Z did not have any of those "S" clips that attach to the OEM fender rubber seals. I decided to go with wider Watanabe's 15X9 -13 rear and 15x8.5 -6 front and run the marugen shoukai fender flares as I'm not happy how my rear quarter panels ended up. The painter messed up the body line and the inner lip of the rear quarter is full of filler. Plan is to get the differential in this weekend and doors. If anyone is interested I have my Watanabe 15x7 for sale, shoot me a pm for details.

With the hands of a surgeon! I'm affraid I have the hands of a drunk stone mason. Great job Sir!

Ran into the same problem described earlier in this post (that refuses to die!!!). My driver side door would lock with the key yet would not unlock. Not totally convinced that the hanger wire repair will be long lasting and wanting a method that (if failed) would still allow me to repair the cylinder via the FUA technique described before, I decided to try a different approach without the addition of any "parts". The wear on the flat "shoulder" of the cylinder where the arm makes contact and pushes it to rotate, transforms that shoulder into a type of ramp which allows the arm to slide over that edge thus preventing rotation of the arm. When I examined the worn ramp effect under magnification I noticed that the wear on the cylinder metal was truly minimal but the fact that the 90 degree (flat) shoulder was minimally altered rendered the rotation of the arm ineffective. With the use of a fine diamond burr on the Dremel I shaved a minimal amount of metal at the base of the "ramp" transforming it again into a flat step, very similar in shape to the unworn one on the other side of my cylinder (the side used to lock the door). To my surprise, the remedy proved immediately effective mainly because the original shape of the "shoulder" is attained with very minimal loss of material (less then 1mm) and no extra parts (wire) are needed for the repair. Total cost of repair; $0.00. Now my cylinder locks AND unlocks the driver side door properly. Granted, eventually the cylinder metal will wear again but by that time maybe ZCar Depot will make replacement cylinders for the '77 and '78 Zs that can be keyed alike with the original Nissan keys. Here are some illustrative pics: Pic above showing the deformed "shoulder" on the cylinder (circled in red). Ramp squared off and back to original shape with fine diamond Dremel burr. Unlock side (left) and Lock side (right) are quite similar after Dremel work. Lock arm back in position and working properly to either side.

I had to Google Wanda Wiggins. I was precoccupied in the 70s and missed those shows.