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Hello! Thanks for the welcome. I work in Calgary and commute from Dunmore every week. My '71 240z #10714 is a very clean original California car imported to Canada by the fellow who sold it to me. I found it on Trader in Smithers BC. The owner drove it three hours to Prince George to meet me and had shipped his spares pallet by FedEx to give to me. I bought it on sight. Got the pallet loaded into my truck at the freight depot and brought the car to Calgary on a trailer (see pic). He had it in the garage for 7 years waiting for his son to be old enough to restore it with him. Turns out his son didn't care for cars. Bad for Dad, good for me. Later on I drove it to the Hat and began the build. Painful drive with the stock engine and a 4 speed! It has solid floors, battery tray and spare tire well but rust in the bottom of the dog legs. Stripping the whole car by hand revealed one repaint and minor fender benders on the DS quarter and PS front fender where the panels had some bondo over a small repair. It had the original driveline. I've been working on it for 18 months but as I"m out of town during the week it goes slowly.

My HLS30U cars . Please note the original dash has the motifs of the bonnet sleek line on the gage clusters .Beautiful , is not it ? Kats

Hey guys, Sorry for the delay in posting. Was heads down with all of the cleaning and powdercoating required to have the car ready to drive in April when my antique license plates come back into effect. Progress Report Rear of car has been completely disassembled All of the small frame pieces have been cleaned and powder coated. Prop shaft, drivers side rear hub and components are prepped and ready for paint when it warms up here Disassembling passenger side hub this week so I can prep it and the half-shafts Broke one of the bolts in the cross-member that connects the control arms, so I have to have someone tap it and reweld it which sucks. But lesson learned about heat over strength lol. Only bolt have broken thus far, so I feel good about it. General note: One thing that I found super cool. The prop shaft u-joints had a bunch of surface rust, but when they came out of the sand booth, all of the original factory text was visible. Picture below, super neat to seen. Was amazed how many factory paint markings from assembly were still visible under the undercoating layer. More to come soon!

I made some good progress yesterday. As always, clicking on the image will give you a larger picture. Rosette welds on inner panel and finish grinding on wheel house repair area, marking out where to cut on the rocker curved surface: Trimming replacement rocker piece to fit (no overlapping joints): Fit is decent. After removal of the area being replaced, I took some pics showing the inside of the rocker: Inside the rocker looks very good. Starting to tack the new panel in: Several angles: Continuing to weld all the way around: Just a small spot that needed to be closed: Grind down welds - finish work: More rosette welds where needed. Additionally, I used a small amount of fiberglass body filler in a few strategic areas. Fiberglass body filler is 100% waterproof. And I learned recently that it is a good idea to use it on certain weld seams like these to fill tiny holes that are present after welding and grinding down. Additionally, I wanted to fill the pitting and couple of holes in the rocker panel in the area that I did not replace. Finish repair of inner panels in red oxide primer. Final fitting of outer replacement panel. Taking time here to get the fit dead on is really important. The finished result after grinding down the welds will come out much better if old to new panel alignment is 100% level and weld gaps are present but don't exceed 1 mm. New to old panel fit is good. The gap got wider than optimum in a couple of areas (middle photo): Front edge fit. Door gap in corner corrected for better gap consistency: There isn't much more welding and finish grinding to do here to complete this part of the project. Body work elsewhere on the panels is probably about 75% at a guess. I am going to be spraying the whole thing and all loose panels in epoxy primer one more time, then the high build primer, and started guide coat sanding.

So smooth

Which, of course, is proof that his technical skills aren't too strong.

Hey grannyknot......you stealing my cars lol! Don’t know why I put all my cars under “about me”. Probably because my technical skills aren’t too strong. I always call SteveJ when I need help!

Back in "the hood".

Hi Brad , good question ! I wasn’t told the price nor I asked about it . Because I feel I should not ask (I can not explain well) at that moment. Maybe the price is just below 3000 0000JPY , still cheaper than the green BAT car ? BTW , here is another good Z432 , https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/iphone/13/700057058930190531001.html?yclid=YJAD.1582399100.i6yT8rSdcq3d5.PLfQCIwf2Lk6Fmbh_6jUGOZ19ftYcOXBl004fnLr4y1qwChSmRDjhW1ViCfQ5yjwk- very attractive original Sunshine yellow , nice interior . Very hard to obtain the Z432 horn pad and the earliest 8 track stereo are in place and they are so beautiful. Here are some you tube for your interest, I think these video’s Z432 is the one on the sale . The asking price is 3300 0000JPY.(still cheaper than the green BAT car ) . The man who is doing the tuning is the legendary tuner Mr. Kubo . Kats

It took an enthusiast from half way round the world to let me know that his was less than 60 miles from me. This is HLS30-00869.

First part is Mazda, Z stuff starts at about 11:30 ...

I rerouted my early '77 to the better pcv route. Here's the thread. Thanks again Captain.

That's the test I go by when I have done major surgery on a car, do the doors still close nicely, panel gaps. I did all my seam stitch welding with the car on the rotisserie with no problems, but I did jump around every 5-6 stitches to a different area while that one cooled off.

I reached out to Randy Jaffe. He owns the 46 car in Trisha's post, and he has studied the BRE cars in depth. The originals use 14x7 LeMans wheels. The wheels he currently uses are VTO 15x7 running Hoosier racing tires due to the lack of racing rubber for 14 inch wheels. (The Goodyear you see in the pics are from a stencil he created to replicate as much as possible how the car looked in the day.)

The original Libre wheels were made by American Racing (I believe). I also believe they did not come with a black center and many were painted later. Here is a pic of our car with those American Racing Libre wheels. Both the VTO and BRE Libre are made by VTO. It is possible to get caps and decals with the American Racing logo for the Libre style. I also included a pic of the Morton car which (i believe) used what BRE now sells as the "LeMans" . Both are similar in size and will fit and look great.

Hi Mike , thanks for your work , I hope people will keep enjoying about Fairlady Z series more and more . Alan , thanks for about your kind word for my thread “ Datsun-240Z VS Fairlady-Z432 “ , this thread has been active since 2007 I thank you everyone here for joining it . About the Z432-R , I agree , some pieces must be replaced to the correct parts. Besides that , this car pulled that much money from the buyer . I think the key could be a posture . This time this car looked more correct in “ height “ than it was used to be . We feel uneasy when we see the car sits too low , or wears different wheels , those things make us wonder if the car has been modified heavily or , not been taken care of properly in its life . Someone would have noticed the head light cover is a later type , but I think this could be happened for the car as made in 1970 but sold in 1972 . It is a well known rumor “ clearance sale “ of Nissan . Nissan Works team moved to L24 instead of S20 , then Nissan sold remaining Z432-Rs to the public with a bargain price. Mr. Kubo (a legendary engine tuner ) said he was offered a Z432-R way cheaper than a standard Fairlady Z ( S30S) . I have never seen a Z432-R which was made after Feb 1971 . Maybe nobody has seen except Alan ! Nissan was preparing for it ( we see the newer parts numbers in the catalog )but politics changed ,so I think they just discontinued making 1971 and later Z432-R . Kats

Sounds like a bad distributor but that's just too easy to say. Here's my "go to" on everything 280. This is a ZX dizzy but they're pretty much the same except for the matchbox ignition module. You could read over it and maybe something will light that bulb in your head. I know I've found loose ball bearings in mine when I first bought it. It may be as simple as the reluctor being out of spec? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html Thank you Phillip for putting this together! It's been a big help to a lot of us. @240260280

Yes, the 'factory' Nissan parts resemble the contemporary Lotus 'race' parts to my eye. I think there was a difference between the Lotus road cars and the Lotus race cars, and the road car stuff was certainly beefier than the race stuff. The Lotus race FRP parts/bodies I've seen were - I believe - made by Specialised Mouldings (they made for other companies such as Lola and GRD) when Lotus moved premises from Cheshunt to Hethel, whereas the early Lotus roadgoing FRP stuff was sturdier and perhaps not as refined. The quality of the Nissan FRP parts is similar to what I've seen on gliders. I took some original Nissan race option parts to an FRP specialist here in England for some repair work, and they remarked on the quality. They were quite surprised that the parts dated from the early 1970s, and pointed out the finesse in the detail areas. Quite time-consuming work, they said. Here's a couple of photos of a (repaired, and in primer) factory 432-R bonnet: I would imagine - from looking at it - that this was made in two pieces, with the outer skin section made in one piece and then the inner section (with the steel hinge brackets, prop bracket and the captive nuts for the male catch mechanism moulded into it) was bonded to it.

The Z432 tail tube and the standard exhaust manifold are now ready for a new paint . The 20010-E8730 is a NOS , but need to be painted to much other parts. Me , sticking with a standard single pipe muffler ! Because my ZG’s tube has 05/72 date code on the tube , I can’t replace it with a new one . Kats

Hi , I let my treasure go to the other Fairlady 240ZG , it is an optional item which was available for the L-series engined car in Japan . The dual exhaust system for the L-series engine is one of the rarest part to obtain nowadays. Maybe back in the old days too , most of people even don’t know what it is . The front and center tubes “ 20010-E8730 “ is the one , this was made specifically for the L-series standard exhaust manifold to bolt on . I imagine so few people chose this set up when people going to have sporty “ dual exhaust systems “ back in 70’s and 80’s . I think this is not so sportier than the one with the full race exhaust manifold set up . Usually, people have Nissan sports option replica exhaust manifold with the Z432 genuine center and tail pipes or , after market set up for their cars . Please see the pictures, they are all genuine Nissan exhaust systems. The ones the left is designed for the L-series standard exhaust manifold, the ones on the right is for the L-series engine with the genuine Nissan race option exhaust manifold with genuine Z432 center and tail pipes set up . Everybody who has S30 series car can attach this “ 20010-E8730” on his car . Kats

Ok, onward with the work at hand - reconstruction in progress: Fit turned out really nice with this custom piece: Some more that had to be cut out because it was just too damaged: It is actually pretty incredible how far rust goes when it takes hold. Eventually the removal of cancer came to an end and reconstruction started to take hold: Some red oxide primer was used in hidden areas and welding of replacements finally began: Though never seen by anyone, grinding down welds couldn't be helped: Zooming in on some of the welds to the thinest original metal: I will soon be able to finish the work in this area. Drilled through in preparation for rosette welds...

The only sure fire high speed of mine is "free fall" and I think that's around 120mph if I pushed it out the back of an airplane.

It is?

You think they were added in America because they have no Japanese writing on them? Rhetorical question: Does that belief hold true with other stickers/labels or tags on the cars? How about where the stickers were printed? You think Nissan would print the stickers in Japan and then send them to the USA to be affixed to cars already fitted with the air pumps? Why could they not just affix them to the appropriate cars in Japan? Or do you think the stickers were printed in the USA? I'm not buying it. If the stickers were applied in the USA (where? port of entry?) I reckon we would see all sorts of anomalies in positioning and application, but as far as I am aware we don't. So I say more likely affixed - to appropriate cars - at Nissan Shatai in Hiratsuka. It also has other peculiarities that make its status as a content examplar slightly rocky. Will you be citing it as proof that early HLS30-prefixed cars didn't have radios or clocks? The Yuasa battery and splash pan might get you "not constructive" downvote on BaT should you bring them to the attention of the Experten level portfolio investors over there. "TEHO". As I've pointed out before, the content of the early HLS30Us was clearly somewhat fluid so such a very early example - not sold to the general public and used by Nissan to make the relevant technical servicing publications - is not necessarily what we should use to judge whether what was coming down the actual production line some weeks or months later is 'correct' or not.

Hey Kats, I think I have the high tech version of that manual.

Today Kats

Haha! I'm really sorry... I still can't figure out what you're trying to accomplish, so I'm gonna shoot in the dark and hope I hit something valuable. They changed some of the PCV and AAR air piping between 77 and 78. In 77, it looked like this (sorry for the crappy pic). They pulled the air for both the upper PCV tube to the valve cover and the AAR off the same point on the throttle body. That point is just on the upstream (low vacuum) side of the throttle plate inside the throttle body: In 78, they added a rubber nipple to the flex boot on the intake side of the throttle body and split up the air intakes for the PCV from the AAR. The PCV still got it's air from the same place as 77 (upstream of the throttle plate in the throttle body), but they moved the air intake for the AAR farther upstream to the new rubber nipple on the flex boot. The boot is missing from this pic, but at the very bottom of the pic you can see where the metal tube leading to the AAR would connect to it: I've not got any real info on the reason they made that change, but I would speculate... On my 77, I get a lot of crud that comes out of the valve cover and through that upper PCV tube. I don't know if I've got too much blow by for the PCV to handle or what, but all I know is that it's dirty. So in my 77, I've got this dirty air stream coming off my valve cover, only to be sucked back through the AAR into my manifold. My AAR doesn't like the dirty air and gets really cruddy inside as a result. So my speculation is that Datsun figured this out, and in 78 they changed the piping to split those two sources and moved the AAR intake farther upstream into cleaner air so it doesn't pull through all that crud coming off the valve cover. None of this stuff will have anything to do with how long it takes your engine to warm up. If your AAR is dirty inside from breathing sticky oily residue from the valve cover, then it may take longer than it's supposed to for your AAR to close. Won't take the engine longer to warm up, but it may take longer than normal for the idle to drop. So, like I said, shooting in the dark, but hoping I hit something!