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I totally agree with you , Both engines are Nissan’s , even more Japan’s best engine. I always feel difficulties which one I should take for a ride today . We should not mixed up with talking about engine and talking about particular car . We should compare Engine to engine, race car to race car . A car for sold to the public must be compared with a car like that . Talking about a car , as Alan always said , Z432 has the perfect sports package . No modification strictly needed . With my little experience, I can’t say Z432 is not a good car just only because of its small displacement, less torque, little heavier S20 engine . Z432 has lighter wheels , 5 speed , R192 4.444 limited slip diff with a rear stabilizer bar . Coil overs spring rates are just right , aluminum radiator helps reducing weight of engine room little bit , strong spark up to 10000 rpm is brought by transistor igniter system . Stainless exhaust and dual pipes exhaust system too , all of these features are standard item . Datsun 240Z Europe model ( especially Portugal model ) can be a good rival of Z432 I think . But thinking about a car for a long distance journey or a daily commuter , an easy ride , Datsun 240Z ( and Japanese L20/L24 car ) is a car for everyone . When I take my 240Z , I don’t have to wait more than 5 minutes for the water temp coming up in a busy morning , or I don’t have to carry an oil can for every 1000km adding 1 litter . I don’t have to worry about crazy expensive gas . And the exhaust fumes are not welcomed my neighbors . 4 speed transmission with 3.35 doesn’t need busy work, almost like an automatic transmission when you in a 3rd gear . All of these things make me feel “ I really love my 240Z ! “ Kats

My wife will attest this is the same sounds coming out of my exhaust pipe after a Taco Tuesday dinner.

Got the springs on the struts after cleaning and painting the top mount caps. Re-built both rear brake cylinders and installed new springs and shoes on rear struts. Also painted the differential. Started work on the front calipers. Also got my yellow zinc parts in today so now I can start the suspension assembly.

Nice hoovering, looks like PS30-00187, Mr. Takeuchi's car. Has done a few hundred thousand kilometers by now. Has an interesting airbox on it, non standard as Z432R didn't come with one.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a one, maybe two, or three, not sure, FC5W71B transmissions. It's just about the LAST thing I have yet to do on (to?) a Datsun. Always thought it was too hard and needed too many special tools. It's not. I want to record details of what I found and did along the process, but not in the usual way. -I will NOT take a video of the whole process. There are plenty great ones on YouTube. I WILL record the URL's of any helpful video's I find to help centralize the source for those videos and maybe critique each one's strengths. -I will NOT add the 300 photos I will take along the way. I WILL take photos and add notes on the tricks and traps and useful organizational methods I found and used along the way. -I WILL make one post that lists ALL the tools I needed. Some I bought, some I modified, some I made, to help you to understand what you will need if you try this. This will either convince you can or CAN'T (or shouldn't) -I WILL encourage you to attempt this yourself. It is not hard, it is just very detail oriented. -I WILL list parts sources for parts I find, especially new sources. -I will make notes about commonality I find between the various 4 and 5 speeds, if that turns there are enough to mention. For example I need a 1-2 shift fork for a 82-83 trans. What other trans have the same fork? Any? Stuff like that. Now onto the good stuff

Presumably the star-crazed original is hanging on someone's wall as garage art, as it has been replaced with a new reproduction on the auction car. Personally I'd rather have the patinated original, but that's just me. They didn't normally get as bad as that. Car may have been in a hailstorm, or attacked by acorn-throwing squirrels, at some point in its life.

So is it better to have the original spidering plexi glass then replacements? It would drive me nuts to have that crazing every where.

And dyslexia and or bad editing skills wins the award again for making sure nothing clear comes out of my fingers. FS5W71B is what I mean. Nothing special, just regular zx trans

This past week i took out the last piece of carpet. Rarely seen such a clean floor in a 280! Then i have made (again!!?) some fender ends the ones who i made earlyer were F***tup by my good friend (NOT!) Danny, who can't weld… (not saying am a pro in welding but …..anyway..) I gave him a set of 4 lower ends for the frontfenders and he cut those in half just to … i don't know.. Look at the parts you can follow his way? please explain it to me because i can't see it.. Left on pic is my old f***tup part and right my yesterday made new part.. The right one is made out of one piece, the left one is welded on diff sides and pieces put on... what was he thinking??? ? (the cut in it was to measure the width of the cutting tool i used at that moment. (1,3mm) Here i radically cut it off! I don't want this kind of junk, not on my car! (Took the last rusty spots also off!) The left hand side will be made the same way.. on a block of wood. Every part takes about 2-3 hours or metalwork to do it good. So by the time the fenders are ready for paint i'm counting on 25-30 hours with welding and making it smooth… easely..

Someone was in the Christmas spirit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tools: I hope I can edit this for a couple of days. Not going to list common stuff. Just stuff you may not have. 1. BAV attached to a BAB. (Large Vise 5 or 6" jaws, attached to Large sturdy workbench). You get to guess what BA stands for. 2. Bearing puller with splitters, large and small, with length extensions. Mine uses 3/8 course threads so I bought a bunch of Gr8 all-thread and coupler nuts. Cheap and strong enough. 3. 38mm open/box end wrench. Also 1-1/2 is just fine too. 4. Snap ring pliers. There are two thick stiff little suckers on the reverse counter gear shaft that if you don't have a proper fitting snap ring pliers, you will curse your life for hours . The tips I used are 0.090 and fit perfect. OTS makes them, sure there are many others. Don't buy cheap. see above. 5. T45 6pt star bit. 6. A press. For assembly, you may not NEED a press if you use the "heat the bearing in the oven", freeze the shaft in the freezer or snowbank, then tap together with maybe nothing more than a pipe and hammer. For disassembly bearing splitter plates and pullers do most. The main shaft has to be pushed out of the bearing in the intermediate plate, and if you had a tall enough press its easy. I'll show what I did instead below. 7. The right size magnet on a stick. Little, like 3/16 to get a couple balls out of holes. 8.

Paid $120 for the OEM and $75 for the replica. The glass is flat. I could not find an OEM replica that had a convex mirror. I’m going to see if I can retrofit one.

Quick word on parts availability, in this case my badly needed 1-2 shift fork Note the list of other Nissan vehicles at the bottom that have a 32805-Q0101 Also encouraging is the Availability column. Apparently they have more than 1, the other site wasn't quite as encouraging.

Not much progress as i'm waiting on a few bits arriving and some time to do stuff. Got a v5 and Reg number which is ace. spent some time farting about deciding on wheel colour for its main wheels. Thought I had decided, however still not sure. Got a decent LHD dash. Got some tyres, managed to get them at a more sensible price than normal, i'm very pleased as they look so good, have amazing 'performance' reviews. https://classic.michelin.com/en/Classic-Tyre-range/MXV3-A 195/65/14. Also decided on a gearbox. Thanks to Alan T ; from a 1972 KGC10 model Skyline GT showroom option 5-speed. Ratios 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1.000, 0.864 and 3.382 reverse, It is an FS5C71-B flanged output transmission with Servo type synchros. Sold a load of spare bits to free up cash for all the above, met a couple of club members which was nice. Feels nice to de-clutter also. A few bits being made, so I can properly put the running gear in, might actually get an engine in it next year.

Inquiring minds must know. 4 speed tear down and comparison coming. I have enough. More donors for input shaft clutch alignment tools. Those plastic POS alignment tools that come with clutch kits are, well, not good enough.

The first one sounds like a dog pound.

My first meter was a BECKMAN back in the 80's... very reliable. I gave it to my father a long time ago and he still uses it. I now have a monster Fluke in the garage that is too much meter.... so I agree with SteveJ's list... they are just right. Fluke make a tiny one that seems useful and inexpensive called the 101. It would be great for your son or anyone that is a young'n ? https://www.fluke.com/en-in/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-101 ~ $70-$100 new

The piece you made looks very good, you're right to cut the other one off, it would started rusting again without a doubt.

I've got a Beckman multimeter and a voltcraft for the big amps measurement.. only one thing important, buy something you can rely on.. The FLUKE is like a BECKMAN a very good multimeter. I've used them many times at work.

Are they genuine Kobe Seiko Rally Mag's or are they reproductions? Age..unfortunately. Must be old age Kats, you're getting soft. ?

Jay has them for you. Picked some up for my '73 build https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/body-exterior-parts-nissan-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/datsun-240z-1973-9-72-10-73-rear-bumper-horizontal-strip-sold-individually-nos

432R has plexiglass windows (except front) to save weight... body is lighter too.

So first post about parts. Drivetrain.com has rebuild kits. DTS -BK104 in various forms with and without synchro's. Some have said the synchro's weren't great, but the Nissan ones if you can. Nissan can also supply all the bearings and bits. Few if any hard parts. EuroDat supplied this spreadsheet of Nissan Parts numbers. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

So what are the white marks on the glass? It looks like frost or cracks but is sort of hard to tell what it really is

I forgot to say My 240Zs runs great ! Handling great ! Here are some pictures of the auction car PS30-00289 , I took the pictures 2018, you can see some items are replaced to be more proper . The exhaust system was not beautiful at that time, the bottom was loosened badly. Kats

I just picked up this one last week at a hock shop, very well built but Klein makes good stuff too.

You’d be surprised what fits on a Globemaster....

fine print: The man cave cannot be in Afghanistan.

Ok I'll write it up and post it And yes, the upper rollers are adjustable Paul (z3beemer)

The S20 and L24 are almost identical weight.. It's that the L24 has 400cc more, but the S20 has better breathing head for high rpm racing.

In fact the S20 continued to be used until the end of 1973 - winning almost every race it took part in - so you clearly didn't take much notice of our previous discussions on the subject. Oppama vs Murayama politics ring a bell at all? L24 didn't do the job at first, did it? Fewer parts? Yes, it took a little bit of development to get them to finish with as many crank throws connected to the flywheel as there were when they started... By the same token, shame our lovely L24 was fitted in the softened-up and dumbed-down HLS30U. Much better suited to the HS30 and HS30U packages ?

I just love the interior on Z432-R's... I wonder why the gear stick / shifter is bent though? 71A boxes usually had a dead straight shifter...unless it's an option box feature? I've got a Mach wheel like that, but I always seem them faded to brown, they were originally black. If anyone is planning to do a replica you'll want a set of Ikeda Bussan seats, I went to great expense in grabbing a set for myself. They are not cheap..but then again nothing Z-432-R parts wise is cheap. That's what makes these cars so special, the parts are all super rare and expensive if you can find them. Not the most comfortable, but certainly look the part in the Z. I've now taken them out since I used the car for my wedding and it wasn't gonna work with the wife's dress on the day.

The JDM rubber mats came standard on all S30-S models, so not just limited to early cars like North American HLS30s. The HLS30 front mats are also different as they have "DATSUN" molded into them.

Imagine how much this collection of 3 would go for, all in the same family! http://www.tarumi.or.jp/page053.html