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Yes Zed Head, you're right! PN: 32604-P0100 (AKA: "RING-BAULK) Items 39 and 44 in schematic. (Apparently less than $10 at a "local" place). I only read Jim's reply and started hunting for information. (After a couple of hours searching; also chasing our cat to give him meds) I stumbled across a large pdf with lots of part numbers. Would anyone be interested in the rest? (it's ~40M ). I included section 177 because it shows the Nissan publication number. By the way, how do I delete a duplicate copy/pasted image? Edit, thanks Z.H. BTW, I see the same microfiche publication "C-0010V" is already available under Resources tab.

For the longest time, I have watched the evolution of the Led 7" round headlight technology and recently decided to upgrade to a set that fairly well mimic the look of the stock glass sealed beams at a reasonable price. I did not want the projector Hid look, too high tech looking, plastic, fan cooling, or a blue light hue. The set I found was from Vintage Car Leds who aim their products at the customer who wants the oem glass look with the advantages of Led bulbs. I chose the 3500 series of their lamps which are moderately priced, and appeared that with the bulb (4000 LM) / heat sink installed (no silly fan) would fit in the confines of the S30 housing. Of course as many are aware, Nissan and many other Japanese auto companies use negative switching of the ground side of the headlight system, the Led's expect the positive side to switch. That being said & with Dave Irwin no longer an option to supply the 240 kit (easy to adapt to the 280 style round connectors) I decided to build my own high quality negative switched harness. I did not want to hack the oem wiring, so I replaced the lighting harness all the way to the headlight buckets. I used real 12 gauge copper wire for the main power source and 14 gauge on the heavy lifting side of the relays feeding the headlights. On the low current trigger side from the combo switch to the relays is 16 gauge. My main intent was to make everything reversible without any modifications should the day ever come to put the system back to factory spec. The headlight assembly fits in the stock housing and its inside bracket but its a close fit, I tried using my bore scope camera thru the bucket grommet hole but could not get a worthwhile picture as it is difficult to maneuver in there. Looked to be about 1/16" clearance. The one gripe I have is that the pigtail from the bulb exits at the back of the heat sink, wish is was the side to provide more clearance. I also upgraded the headlight plug connector to a more heat resistant porcelain type. This plus into the pigtail from the Led bulb. The upshot of all this is ........ a dramatic change in usable light compared to the sealed beams without blinding oncoming traffic. Also,the very low current now thru the combination switch, I was saving a nos combo switch that I just installed which has never seen full load current - it should last a very long time. Impressed so far, will try to get some action pictures driving after dark, but so far - highly recommended. In other news .... I am playing around with the fog / driving lights as a inexpensive solution to fill the gap below the 240 bumper. Its still in progress, a fun project, will notch the fabricated bar I made to clear the lower grill mount and get them about an inch or more lower. Again, all factory mount holes were utilized, including relocating the horns.

Keeping the injectors cool is probably worth doing. That is the source of the heat soak/hot start problem for many EFI systems, apparently. If the shields block air flow then they also block hot air rising from the exhaust system. So, dual function, radiant and convective.

The spade connects to a condenser on the back side of the distributor.

I looked through Facebook's marketplace earlier. Lots of datsuns on there. 240s were $4k to $25k. Give it a look if you haven't.

I recently rebuilt carbs with no filters. What a pile of dirt and silt inside. The engine is also blowing oil through the top of valve cover so open air engines is not a good thing nor cool based on first hand observations. I notice a lot of road grit is thrown up by the vehicles in front as they pass over it. It is very noticeable when traveling behind a truck with a Jersey Barrier on the side. Grit collects at the barrier and you sand blast your car as you drive through the wake of the truck in front.

Well it took me some time to get to it, but, here's a small write up from our visit to Japan this year. Schedule: Tokyo - 4 days Hakoke - 3 days Kyoto / Nara - 4 days Tokyo - 3 days Tokyo: We immediately went to the hotel after our long flight. We took a local train (not the express for some reason) from Narita to the Shinjuku district. It was a longer train ride because it stopped at many of the local stops. Next time I'll take the express airport train. Took a few photos outside the station and checked in. We stayed at a nice Japanese hotel (not a big chain) located just outside the main tourist areas. The walk was fun and we got to see a nice park along the way. The next few days we spent roaming around Tokyo, taking photos, visiting temples, and looking at all the cherry blossoms. We also visited a museum where they had the Thinker and Gates of Hell on display outside. It was interesting because I've also seen these in Paris. It was a great cultural experience for my 10yo son. Japan was definitely crowded this time of year, I think everyone wants to come and see the blossoms in full bloom. Many of the Japanese ladies liked to wear Kimono's as they walked around for the day. I loved it.. We also took a tourist boat down the river and visited a very well manicured park with old trees and gorgeous blooms! Later on we went shopping, ate a lot of food, and met up with other friends from Seattle. We were fortunate to run into two other families from our hometown during their visit at the same time we were in the area. We were able to traverse across multiple towns using the awesome train systems. Every train we rode on was ON TIME (a far cry from any train system I've used in the US).

Another thought, and a reason to just go through the whole series of EFI component tests and measurements. If your coolant temperature sensor circuit is "open" the ECU will dump loads of extra fuel thinking that it's super cold out. It might be that that is the reason the PO lowered the fuel pressure. You already have many of the important numbers. Keep measuring and confirming. A multimeter is a very valuable tool for the EFI systems. You might save yourself some time and money by doing the full set of tests first.

I used an online calculator just for fun and it comes up surprisingly close to "turbo" injector for your measured pressure. Assuming that the 188 cc number is at 36 psi. Some flow rate charts aren't clear on what pressure they measure at. Whatever you do, keep track of your starting points so you can reset them if needed. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/technical

I'm doing the same. Super cool setup!

Wow, another one! glad you are ok. Nice looking car, hope the repair goes well. I am driving down to Hot Springs for the weekend, in light of all this, maybe I won't take as many backroads ...

When I get scammed through an auction or internet retailer, if they don't back up what they sell, I contact my credit card company. They will back me up. At one time, I was restoring an old Jeep truck. I bought 4 refinished wheels but they didn't match. They had variations in the color and the casting. They said I bought 4 wheels. Not a set of wheels so they refused to take them back. My credit card company went to bat for me. My paypal account is tied to my credit card only and not my checking for that reason. If someone purchased a car using Paypal in similar condition as old yeller above and the ad was as deceptive, I wonder if a person would be successful by contacting their credit card company and withholding payment?

Thanks for the well wishes everyone. I took the car out today and other than the cosmetic, there doesn't seem to be any other ill effects. Wow! What a coincidence! That must've scared the crap out of the wife. (Would explain the pants... )

Hey Grannyknot, I talked to Eiji at Spirit Datsun about a filter setup, he said "where am I driving, the Sahara?"! Doesn't use them at all on his car. I think I will get some socks to filter big particles if I'm going on a road trip. We tied to keep the mechanical linkage for the throttle, but it was really too much bother, would of had to replace the throttle shaft . I'll look at the routing for the cable, we tried to keep a gentle curve so the cable wouldn't bind. The fuel lines around the sump are not too pretty, but I wanted the sump to make it easier to revert to stock setup.

That's an odd looking building. Did a double take 3 times.

Great write-up of your vacation! I took my wife and son to Japan earlier this year and we had a blast. I would live in Japan, it's amazing and the rich culture is so fascinating! I just realized that I have not yet summarized my trip and will have to do that soon... here's a link to my post:

If you're talking about just the frame rails under the floor pans and not the ones in the engine bay it would be relatively easy to fab. your own. I bought my floor pan rails from ZedFindings and would do it again. Reasonably priced and excellent quality.

It can be done, but there are also mountings on the frame rails-you would need some good material, and a big heavy brake to bend it with and a jig to put(and hold) everything in the right place for welding-depending on what part of the rails you need to replace.. I didn't see the need to reinvent the whole nine yards I bought a set from Charley Osborne at Zed Findings and spent the time getting ready for them cleaning up what was there, working out how to put them in the right place and practicing my welding.. Those I bought are outwardly indistinguishable from factory parts. If you diy-be sure to post everything!

Don't disregard automatic Zs. Looking at Zs over the years I've found the automatic Zs are usually still in better shape, a better chance that they were garaged sometime in their life, usually were driven less spiritedly and don't cost quite as much. It's really easy to convert an automatic to a manual in Zs and the used parts aren't very expensive yet, especially if you go with a four speed. Carbed Zs ended with the 1974 260Z. Anything after that was injected.

Buyer beware! Some very unsatisfied buyers. One star reviews from real people, 5 stars from one person; fake I'm sure. https://www.bbb.org/us/ca/glendale/profile/auto-brokers/vintage-car-collector-1216-762227/customer-reviews Take your time, the right one will find you. Kind of weird how that works but it does.

This is a perfect example of what I'm tempted to call Katayama Lore. The origin of the anecdote was Mr Koichi IWATA of Nissan Japan's Export Department, who accompanied the display of two cars (210-series Bluebirds) and a small pickup truck at the 1958 Los Angeles Imported Car Show. Mr IWATA reported that he drove at least one of the 210s around the Los Angeles area, and that it had struggled to keep up with traffic on the freeways. His conclusion was that it was almost dangerously underpowered for freeway on-ramps and inclines in comparison with larger-engined domestics. Of course, he reported this to his superiors in Japan. Mr KATAYAMA appears to have, and I'm being polite here..., inherited the anecdote as his own. Mr KATAYAMA arrived in the USA in 1960... No 4 cyl 'prototype' of the S30-series Z was sent to the USA.