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Yep its here on Amazon. I used only one wheel for dozens of long welds. It's a really good grinding wheel. https://www.amazon.com/3M-1991-Reinforced-Grinding-Wheels/dp/B0002SRLF2

You were right. Since they were able to fix the vacuum leaks, the Z is running better. I had to back off the idle quite a bit. It’s running much smoother now! Thank you!

Hi , good luck on your selling , I was told by Mr . Miyate ( Nissan Shatai engineer ) , he said it was oriented to insurance matter at that time in the US , he ( engineers ) created an access panel for the bulbs each side in order to reduce insurance fee . My 03/1970 240Z still has a non-access panel type rear trim . Kats

Yes it is like a 69 car.... low vin no tail light access...

It's Running! After reading the last posts I disconnected the line to the fuel filter and blew some compressed air in to it going back to the gas tank. Heard the bubbling in the gas tank. Next I filled both float chambers (I had to order a squeeze bottle that holds fuel and the tube went over the nipple perfectly. The bottle is used for filling RC cars). While I was at it, I filled the fuel filter since I had the line disconnected, figured it wouldn't hurt to help with the priming. I used my wd-40 plastic tube and pushed the floats. They bobbed up and down with no problems. Reconnected the fuel lines hoses and the car started up perfect and runs perfect!!! So I don't know if the floats were stuck and were freed up when adding the gas thru the nipple or if there was just an air pocket in the lines. Thanks everyone for the help and Cliff, great photo and descriptions. You made it real simple for me to follow.

My '73 when new in '73 (from a Kodachrome slide that was digitized a couple of years ago) plus s From a 1971 or '72 brochure. Looks like a photo of the '70 steering wheel. (just scanned in today) 3 From a 11-72 brochure for the '73 240Z (scanned today)

"500 miles in the last few years" Sounds familiar. Priming everything worked. Good to know for us "Garage Queen" owners.

R12 is still out there, a shop should be able to get the real stuff. That is what is in mine. the replacements are often some kind of hydrocarbon (propane/butane) from the research I have done. IF you cant get R12 I would suggest R134 and a replacement Condenser like a parallel flow and maybe even a aux fan. New drier and complete flush of the evap, an a new compressor just to be sure, replace everything (evap too if you want to pop for a new one). Oh and barrier hoses as well. With all new stuff you will be into the price range of a vintage air, but will not have to do the fab work, and it will be original as far as the controls. I like the OE style since it maintains the correct use of the outside air chimney for ventilation. The correct way to diagnose an existing unit would be to have a shop evacuate the existing gas (if any) then fill with nitrogen to about 80psi (the normal off pressure for todays heat) see if it holds pressure, use soapy water to find leaks esp around the condenser. Look at the connections as well. The evap lives in a safe place so it will prob be ok. if pressure test checks out, before pulling a vacuum check to make sure the little line filter at the outside firewall connection of the high side is not plugged up, Flush the condenser with cleaning fluid install a new drier, pull a vacuum. If it hold near 30inmg for several hours after stopping the pump, then they put in the correct amount of R12 (assuming no oil was lost). The system is very simple, and as demonstrated in the video works just fine. Mine had a slow leak at the condenser, I was able to get a nice NOS unit to replace it as well as a now hard to get 33286 drier. This meant I was able to get it completely original. If I could not get the condenser and drier I would prob opt for a after market condenser of the same approx. size and modify the inlet side hard line so I can use the easier to find driers with inlets and outlets at the top.

That is what I bought. I have some left over of course, would you like me to put some on a smaller spool and send it to you? Price sure has gone up, l think I paid around 80 cdn about 5 years ago.

If you do the tie rod ends remember the driver's side has left handed threads. Lefty tighty, righty Lucy.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307 Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).

Double hood latch release cables. Now I can open the hood with locked doors if the battery dies and the remotes won’t work. No door locks looks cool but can be a real issue if you lose power! Emergency access!

look out for cheap ball joints, avoid them, moog is good, I got a "Sankei 555" made in japan. Neabour had a cheap ball joint BREAK on him Don't know the details but that was enough for me. The OE ball joints may be fine, if there are just oozing may just need a boot. IF they feel tight and have no play, you may just want to clean up and replace the boot. New is not always better.

The Moog 9011 is greaseable. 14mm Thread MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like-new suspension, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension parts brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs. Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants Loose or worn chassis parts can lead to premature tire wear Long-lasting performance Restores like-new steering and handling Material Neoprene Castle Nut Included Yes Cotter Pin Hole Yes Mounting Hole Quantity 3 Greasable Yes Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4016078500, 40160A3405, 40160A8600, 40160A8610, 40160A8625, 40160U7000

The early finisher is unique.

@kats Here is a Jan 1971 240z on first drive after a rebuild with stock sender and gauge. The oil pump is a turbo with the spring shimmed with washers to increase pressure.

TSB from 1973 Issue. Here is 140psi Sender:

I forgot to put this , my 1972( 12/71 made ) Datsun 240Z . I think a 6kg switch cooperated with a 6kg / 90lb scale work pretty good, it makes me feel happy . Kats

Hi Dan , your data helps everyone a lot , I was also wondering too about the low readings of the oil pressure. My first Z is a 1972 240Z when I was living in Bakers Field CA which always showing middle in the gauge. Then I bought a 1970 240Z , it always stayed very low in the gauge. I remember I was reading Mr. Wick Humble ‘s book and learned my 1970 car was not wrong . Here are pictures which were taken recently, my 1970 Z432 ( shared with all the other S30 DOM & EXPORT using the same 10kg switch , 10kg scale ) and 1970 Datsun 240Z , And 1972 Fairlady 240ZG ( 6kg switch with 6kg scale ) . Just for your reference. By the way , 25070-89910 ( 10kg ) switch is now approximately 200-400 USD if it is a new , S20 owners are seriously want it . Looking at my Z432 , S20 might able to be said it’s oil pressure relatively higher than L -series engine , what do you think of it. Kats

This is nitpicking bulls**t but look at the front of the valve cover above the thermostat housing, driver's side. They could've put the gasket on upside down. I guess an easy way to test that would be removing the oil fill cap and see if there's a change in rpms. If they drop you most likely won't have a vacuum leak that small...

I'd go back. Sounds like the vacuum leak wasn't fixed or you have more. They could have the timing right now but forgot to lower the idle adjustment which is too much airflow just like the vacuum leak.

I agree that looks about right but you won't know for sure until you measure the temperature of the coolant when it's hot.

put a cooking thermos in the rad start the car, let it warm up see what it reads, prob 185 looks fine. If the old rad looks good I would leave it, or get it rebuilt (new core) if it looks bad. a rad shop will charge you about 300$ maybe more. Lots of folks put those cheap China made alum one in there, I would not trust it. Would rather have a quality shop re do the old one.

Temp will depend on the thermostat, 160 or 180 degrees for example. That looks normal to me and is about where mine runs.

I replaced my series I oil sending unit PN 25070-89910 in 1979 with the correct 10 KG OEM switch and it stills seems to read OK on the 140 psi gauge. Attached is a parts page showing different PN's for the 10 KG and 6 KG units. Is there a date on shop instructions sheet that you have? Sorry I don't have any specs for the 10 KG sender. Mike