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FOUND SMOKING GUN!!!! I finally found the source of my miss and sometimes backfire thru AFM. With all the things I had done I didn't look at the spark at the plugs. So...... I removed the spark wire at each plug, plugged in a spare spark plug and started the motor. Each plug was firing, but VERY weak. To cut to the chase the ignition coil was the problem. Let me rephrase that....I was the problem. I remove and replaced the coil many years ago for whatever reason. The Primary side coil resistance is supposed to be 0.40---0.55 ohms, per service manual for the 75. The Fire ball I put in there many years ago was 1.6 ohms. This might not seem to be a big change , but when I replace the coil with a "Flame-thrower -2" what a difference. The new coil has a primary resistance of 0.6 ohms , but try and find a coil today which is 0.4 ohms is not possible. I know I have my OEM coil , but at the moment I can't locate it .BTW this new coil is used with the OEM ballast resistor. This is a good day!!! PS : I should give credit to a u-tube guy with a site called "Restoration for beginners". He seems to have good understanding of basic mechanics and after watching his segment on ignition systems, which covered coil replacement, he ran into the same problem with selecting coils. Oh yea his car is a 78 280z.

Some more work modifying the lower heat shield to align the throttle cable linkage. I think I should have enough distance for the SS cable to be safe from any heat related damage. This pic shows the hole I opened in the heat shield for the cable to pass through to the "wheel guide" I made. The heat shields will be powder coated when complete. This pic shows the side view and the washer I welded into place to retain the cable and locking collar for tension on the cable. You can also see the slotted hole which will serve as the tensioner on the wheel guide. From here, you can see the path of the cable will align to under the throttle body to allow the cable to "pull" the butterfly open in a smooth arc.

I purchased this 1973 240z CA/AZ (one owner car) that's been hibernating for 25 years in a AZ. garage. I am working on waking it up. (See NEW MEMBER - NEW CAR Topic). Work started - Pulled the head, there was a bent push rod and a bad lifter. Sent head off for a rebuild (forgot to take a picture before installing). The timing chain was installed incorrectly in the past (180 degrees off) this would make the car run poorly (as you can imagine). Maybe that's why the PO parked the car in a garage for the last 25 years. The exhaust manifold was cracked all the way through, it couldn't be repaired so I ordered a coated header. Exhaust system from MSA TBC Coated 6-1 Header and MSA Premium Exhaust System. New parts installed - new timing chain, water pump, fuel pump, MSA 60 Amp alternator, and motor mounts. Exhaust came in last week, finishing up the engine and then starting up the engine / car for the first time in 25 years.

I'm going to say around $600.00 - $800.00 depending on condition. Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knee would hit the bottom of the steering wheel (with seat back all the way) whenever I put my foot on the brake pedal. It got to be kind of a PITA after a couple of years.

Yes, 918. It looks great, I just hadn’t seen it up close in real life. I’ve only seen one 918 Z in my life and it was 200ft away going the opposite direction on an interstate. I'm stoked for it, but I was a bit surprised by it. The photos you find online are no way to tell, and it wasn’t the original orange when I bought it. I held this photo (found somewhere on this site) up to the samples and they were really close:

Jerry i am currently vacationing about 60 miles from ellensburg and will pass through there on Sunday. What did have in mind. PM me or text 206-300-614 eight

:Mic Drop:

Hey guys, I'm looking into parts that would be suitable for reproduction via 3D modeling/Printing. Things I'm looking into are things like rare emblems, mirrors, shift knobs, and accessories. My current project is reproducing a set of Suichuuka "Flower" Mirrors as seen here: You can see progress on those here https://www.instagram.com/rl_design_fab I've also had success 3D printing Stainless steel Pillar emblems and would like to make a set of these rare versions which I think were on the 432 Z: If anyone has reference images for any rare parts that might be good candidates for bringing back to life I'd be super happy to hear your ideas! Thanks!

Done. Mogul Gear 300 75w90. Bolts triple checked for torque. New gaskets, new everything except the case, bearings, and gears. No leaks. I had to scrap the old cover because the mating surface was shot from sitting in. Yard for years. Luckily the case is fine, and a new cover and gasket solved the problem.

You seem to be living in an alternate reality, Aston Martin never bought in cars and sold them as factory refurbished. It's only in the last five or six years it has happened as that is when the works service side of the operation became licensed to sell cars. Best to stick to what you know Alan rather than spouting mistruths about stuff you know nothing of. I speak from experience as the former Director of Service has been quite a good friend since the 1980's and provided me unlimited access to the records. A lot of the information is in the books I have written on Aston Martin.

License plate lamp housing. All of the ones I have found used have been warped all to heck.

Thanks, its a very solid car and the undercarriage is very clean. I plan to eventually go back to the original Red (110) the current engine bay color. It came with the rountops. The plan is to get the car running and then I will decide what to do.(probably keep the round tops).

@JessHS130, @ntownsen, @Jon Dickson, @alm102486, @Gwen. @Robin. From our Member map.

No..no… I live in the Netherlands.. HOLLAND... The Dutch! Haha.. confusing hey? Des pay bas...

Of course. Ellensburg is quite a ways from where I am located, or I'd go check it out. It's a college town with about 20.000 people, so hopefully someone on here can take a look at it for you. Best of luck!

Chassis fuel lines are good. Removed the defective 280z tank today, picking up a good 240z tank tomorrow morning. Should be back to running by noon.

Not wanting to start a religious war over gasket brands, I've had two high annoyance gasket failures with Fel-Pro. First was a head gasket on an Acura Integra, and the second was an oil pan gasket failure on a Honda Civic. I'll use simple paper gaskets from them, but the complicated stuff doesn't seem to work for me. I'm just cutting my losses.

Pucker? I know you don't want to kiss one! You couldn't drive a sewing needle up my arse with a sledgehammer when those underground yellow jackets are hovering about.

Red Wasps make me pucker a little I gotta admit... Remember not too long ago (maybe a year or so) a blue 76' ,what seemed to be quite a bit rougher than this latest, went for 36K on BAT. I'm not sure that it was even a one owner car but I do remember that the paint was not near as nice.

A wasp nest surprises me more than anything nowadays.

Numbers like that are rewarding on many levels and also a good reason to keep a car as original as possible.

My Dad used to "fix" his work (logger) pocket watch by soaking it in clean diesel oil and letting it drain. He kept cheap ones going for years that way. Would it be worthwhile to lightly lube the works of these old clocks with a super light weight oil like turbine oil?

@Captain Obvious attached below is schematic with details of FA6004 audo amp in 1972 portable Hitachi radio. Same 8pin SIP module. It may be similar in some ways. The best I can do. FA6004 Details.pdf

I bravely swapped bad unit's output stage to working unit and it continued working. I put working units output stage in bad radio an no change. I then moved good AF SIP to bad radio and it worked... risky but easy. I did verify all voltages in power transistors were the same before swapping so low risk in the end.

One thing's for sure, the original book ('Z: 35 Years Of Nissan's Sports Car', published by Motorbooks in 2005) could do with a re-write. It would have benefitted from some pretty strict fact-checking and photo caption sub-editing before original publication. Being polite, it's not any kind of reference work on the marque.

A little less vintage...

Update: So the Subaru dif is mostly done. It needs to be flushed again and I think the cover gasket is leaking, but since I bent the dust shroud on the input flange I’m putting this in storage until I’m in the mood to mess with it again. It needs to be sitting on the wheels to get that front lock nut torqued to 195 nm, otherwise I’m only going to continue messing up my hard work (see 2nd to last image).