Leaderboard

Never underestimate the rust of the dark side.

Okay I have everything put back together so will go get 10gal of gas tomorrow morning and see if I can get it running, I got all the signals, lights and engine running well before I tore down so if I'm lucky ... I'll shoot a little video if all goes well.

I agree, I like to see the fuel too that's why I got one, but the problem is not the glass it's the cheap pot metal on either end, it has no strength. This is a much safer bet,

Thanks for posting that, I like the real rust myself, that green Z just reminds me of the antiquing craze back in the 70's.

No problem with the oil cap or dipstick removal. The only thing I ever noticed when pulling the oil cap was more valve train noise. The plugs are a bit too dark. I'd start with new NGK BP6ES's. A couple of things to check are, choke cable adjustment, sticking nozzles (either one will prevent the nozzles from returning to their top position. Try turning the mixture screws (secondary mixture adjustment) to 2 1/4 turns and check the plug color after a few miles. If none of these suggestions work I'd look at the float adjustment, which is the primary mixture adjustment. The oil loss is likely from poor valve stem seals. Not a difficult job if one has the right spring compressor. These engines are very reliable. It would also be a good idea to take a compression test to see if theirs any problem with the valves or rings. The results will likely set your mind at ease.

I have the 2000Z model, Kats. Could use a new faceplate or I'm going to have to repair it.

The GATES # are correct. They are quite a rare commodity. Both boxes are actually labeled-MADE IN THE USA. Hopefully that includes the contents, not just the box. Being in the retail auto parts business, it is quite discouraging to see how few parts are actually made in the USA. GATES #23832 is the 2" ID. GATES #23820 is the 1-1/4" ID. Both come in 6 ft lengths. Both are listed in our company's catalog system under defrost hose. Thanks again for the responses. I am doing my best to keep the resurrection process going on the 78Z, John-Lugoff, SC.

Are you certain the new coolant was a 50 50 mix? Antifreeze does not dissipate heat as well as water / antifreeze. Heater temp control at max hot when you circulated the new coolant?

That could be an air pocket, to be sure all the air is out open the rad cap when the engine is cool and jack up the car front of the car as high as the jack will go, start the engine and turn the heater on full. Leave the cap off as long as you can before it overflows then cap the rad and bring the engine up to normal temp, turn the engine off, leave it the car on the jack and let it cool over night. Next morning open the cap and top off the coolant if needed, that should do it or at least it has always worked for me. If that doesn't do the trick you could replace the thermostat or at a minimum pull it out and test it in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer.

You are 100% right Chris! I've split a couple of the ends over the years and that threaded center stalk deteriorates over time. A fuel filter that's not fuel proof? Anyway I hand tighten mine and check them all the time. I will look around for an aluminum one like you've posted, Jegs has good variety. Thanks, Cliff. I like this one...

Top pic looks like Darth Vader is taking the photo.

Who would like some Pie?

Real rust versus fake rust.

Cleaned then painted the inside of the fenders with POR-15, then a light undercoat. Installed and aligned fenders and side marker lights along with a few engine items. Here is a quick phone pic of the car along with my embarrassing garage stuff in the background. We're getting closer. I really need a larger place. Will pick up the hood and remaining body parts next week.

That doesn't do much for me but I bet it took a lot of work to get it that way.

I would think about how you want to spend your time. I would definitely fix the leaks at some point but maybe you don't want to do it now. If you do everything else on your list, plus install a set of KYB strut inserts, you can start driving and enjoying the car. And, you can assess further what all needs to be addressed. If you pull the suspension apart and start painting all of the black under the car, you are starting a big project that likely renders your car on stands for a decently long time. Same goes for fixing the leaks. Those jobs open up multiple boxes of worms and could leave you without a car to enjoy for a while. Also, fixing the transmission seals is totally doable but it isn't an insignificant exercise. I did it last summer and it was pretty challenging getting the bolt that connects the shift fork to the shift rod removed (without damaging it) so I could replace the shifting o-ring and seal. Not trying to scare you. It is just not a clutch swap. It is a messy less than intuitive job if you have never been inside of a transmission before. Again though, it really depends on how you want to spend your time. If you really want to devote 6 months to getting all of these things right so you can drive and enjoy after then great. If you think you will get worn out and a bit frustrated when the car has been on stands for months and you can't drive it then maybe that tells you something also.

gwri8 has a pretty good list. One item I find difficult to remove with out mangling is the drip rail trim. It takes a little practice to get them off with out distorting them. If your window seals are hard at all, I would just cut them and remove the glass. If they are still pliable, I would try to remove the glass with the seal or have a glass company do it. The front windshield is easy to break if you push it too hard. Mark, also makes a very good point. The sheet metal is very thin on these cars and a careless blaster will destroy a car very quickly. I would have them DA the whole car really well. They will find any trouble spots at that point. I don't think I would go looking for extra work. There are risks associated with stripping the car back to bare metal. You can develop surface rust and that can cause paint failures later. Even rust that is really not obvious; been there , done that. If the existing paint is adhered well, I don't believe I would pay someone to strip it off...