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The legislation seems stupid to the masses... but unfortunately the masses are stupid. They are taking over like zombies! What a sad world. Glad to be checking out in the next 30 years or so.

A good buddy @chaseincats put me onto this upgrade last year, he originally found it over on HybridZ. The replacement motor and fan comes from one of our favorite donor cars - a '99 Kia Sportage. He pulled one from a salvage car and installed it into his 280Z. Yes, the housing needs a 1/16th trim all around the opening but that is the only mod. His electrical plug was a direct fit. For my 240Z, the OE motor is hardwired with a spade and bullet fitting. Another buddy recently did the same upgrade for his '72 resto project and he put together a jumper for me with the correct plug for the motor and the spade and bullet for my harness. Grinding out the housing with everything still in the car is a bit of a PITA (I'm getting too old for this crawling around!), but everything came together well. The new fan puts out lots of air and is super quiet. A new motor with fan is available at Rockauto for $35 if you not inclined to hit a salvage yard, as in my case.

If you need any tips, info or photos, ask away.

Why yes... Yes, it does. Enjoy.

I think the debates start to get worse when the price goes up. From what I've seen, there seems to be tipping point where a high bidding price assumes the car should be 'correct' in many aspects. There are many great Z's out there for sale, however, when they reach this kind of price range the owner should know about these corrections. Aside from the dash, the other changes don't seem to be that bad. My ultimate gripe with some of the comments on BAT are the lack of helpful information. I'd rather see these guys state their observation and offer some advice on how to remedy the problem. A new owner shelling out $40k+ will want real information, not a pissing contest... That's why we should invite them here -- we can truly help them get their car to the next level. Mike

Whatever the future may bring, I've become more aware of changes in driving habits. Couple weeks ago I was behind a driver who was all over the road. When I was able to pass safely I saw her looking down at her phone. Last fall I was one of the first to stop at an accident where an SUV rolled on it's side and a woman in the other car was trapped inside. We pulled the SUV driver out, she said she was lost and looking a map on the screen. I've been seeing a lot more "failure to yield" in the last few years, when drivers making a left turn cut off approaching cars. I don't know but I suspect they've gotten used to following orders from their navigation systems and just turn when told to. Also, on a recent road trip to Arizona there were a lot of slow big rigs in the right hand lane. Often there would be line of cars in the left lane waiting to pass, and a driver would fly past in the right lane, get behind the truck, and then slip between the left lane cars and pass. So it's 80 mph and only about a car length between cars. One little mistake and it's a tragedy. And on a 6 hour trip they might only save about a minute doing that. I usually ended up passing them later, with the cruise set at 79 mph.

The blower works/fits all s30s. If you have a 280z, the power connector is plug and play (but with series 1 240s, the connector to the blower motor needs the adapter @jfa.series1 fabricated). While the 280z's blower motor is beefier than the 240's, the sportage motor handily eclipses both. In my '78 280 for example, the level 5 fan speed setting with the original motor is roughly equivalent to level 3 using the sportage motor. These things move A LOT more air and are way quieter like Jim was saying.

The history is quite a bit more vague than the scarabs. They didn't make 74 cars, the company that now owns the name is hoping to try and cash in on it, with a dubious start. Some of the cars were nothing more than a set of triples and wheels. There's 3 or 4 with good history(big sam), the rest are without it(69 cars and counting) Some cars called samurais are not classed as so by the guy that came up with the concept, theres more cars being added to the register each year. Theres no set spec, no set design, no set anything.

I finally got around to addressing my lack of a faster idle at start, which has been the case since I acquired the car. After reading through this thread I removed my AAR to see what’s what. At about 70 degrees there was barely a sliver of a crescent shape to let air through. Hooked it up to a battery to see what happens, and nothing. No change in the shape of the crescent. Put it back in the car and ordered the 300ZX AAR part number 22660-45P00 from Courtesy at a cost of 100.66. Price has gone up. Put the new one in the car and upon startup my car now idles around 1200rpm. Success! P.S. my car is an April ’75 build date 280z California Emissions car.

just got off the phone with Hung, 6-8 weeks out. the were having some problems with the mold, and want to work it out to have a quality product. Hopefully folks are purchasing to have them as a spare, and not already taken theirs off. I only have a single large crack so its not a big deal for me to wait. So will check back in 6-8 and let you all know where we are on this. I will not demount my existing until I have the replacement in hand. At that time I have to decide if it would be right to redo the entire AC. I have a brand new evap unit with a standard TVX, but mine is not leaking now so I don't know.

FWIW, the Greenlight toy car people have a Hot Wheels sized Big Sam in an upcoming release. They've done a pretty good job of recognizing Zs in their Japanese car selection, including models that represent BRE, Bob Sharp, Safari, rally and Baja versions (like Carl Beck's BRE offroader). In their scale and price range, details can be ... vague, but overall it's been a good assortment.

Grill: Yes, Bug will need some modifications. Valance: No 240Z indicator: Possible. With air-dam. To fit a 240Z grill you need to remove the 280Z indicators and preferably the supports. The two outer sdctions of the valances will fit, but the valance center section is too high and hit the frame section undrr the larger 280Z radiator. If you use an air-dam for the 240Z, you can fit the 240Z indicators. The air-dam is low enough the cover the frame and doesn't curve back like to original valance. If you go this route, don't forget to get the two 240Z wiring harness with lamp socket. They ard different to the 280Z and the sockets won't fit. How do I know all this. Been there, done that..... Here is my thread on it. Success.

One of the factors to take into account with regard to Bring-A-Troller is that comments are pre-moderated. If the moderators don't think your sincerely-offered, helpully-intended observations (ahem...) are of interest or of relevance to the auction process then there's a good chance they simply won't get through their net. Meanwhile, certain 'players' are seen to be part of the in-crowd and even their most inane and sloppy posts get a free pass. Even when you do make the cut, if enough members of the in-crowd don't like the perceived tone of your trolling well-intentioned pithy observations then phut, you're 'unhelpful' and gone. By all means get them over here and see if it's possible to teach them the difference between 'Concours' and 'Concourse', 'Camaro' and 'Camero'.

Uh oh! Does that mean I have to start wearing a tie? ?

That part went well!

Truth be told I am painting my second complete car. So I am just a novice. The first was an mgb. This one is a 73 240z. When I painted the “B” I removed the doors, hood and trunk lid. The first problem was how to paint both sides of something using a 2 stage paint system. I purchased a few paint stands (scissor type) and they are a necessity if you are going to do any paint or body work. After struggling with the stands and painting one side at a time I finally broke down and bought a simple rolling rack. Mine isn’t very expensive (about $90). It is terrific for painting small light parts both sides at once. I never figured out a good way to suspend heavy awkward items like doors. I tried the obvious stuff: hooks through holes … ect. but a door doesn’t hang well unless it is suspended from the right spots and at the right height for painting. It is also preferable to have the part hanging in the same way that it will be mounted on the car. I looked online for tips on how best to hang parts for painting both sides but never found anything particularly insightful. So, in an attempt to help some novice painter out there. All doors have hinges. Hinges on most cars bolt onto the door via a threaded hole. There are usually holes on the opposite side. If the threaded holes are not large enough to hold the weight of the door any hole without threads will do. My first attempt was to use the hinge bolt (8 x 1.25). Simple right. Put the bolt through a few links of chain and screw it into the hinge hole. Use another bolt through a large hole on the other side. Make sure you use large washers to distribute the load on the entire surface of the hole. Pass the bolt from the inside of the door through the hole and a few links of chain and a nut. This works but the chain will inevitably hit the top of the door skin and also be in the way as you paint the inside border that shows after you install the door card. So here what worked well for me. You need longer bolts. So that the chains hang unobstructed vertically, and far enough away from the door to allow you to get paint where you need it. I wanted a single bolt for a bunch of different parts. I needed bolts that were approximately 6 in. long. Could not find anything that long that was threaded all the way. I did find 8 mm threaded rod. It was 36 inches. Cut two (2) six (6) inch pieces. Used a thread file to clean up the ends. For the bolt through the unthreaded hole I put a nut followed by a large washer. Passed the combination through the inside of the door through the hole. Next was another washer and a nut to hold the assembly tight against the door. Next I placed a nut and then a washer the about 6 in. of chain followed by a washer and a final nut. If you are nervous about nuts coming loose on threaded rods you can double nut the ends. On the opposite side (the hinge side) I threaded the rod into the threaded hinge hole. I threaded enough of the rod to have about an inch showing on the inside of the door – this insures that you are using all of the threads to hold the door. Next I threaded a nut down the rod about 1.5 inches, followed by a washer, the chain, another washer and then a final nut. The door can then be hung with the chains vertical and away from the skin. I know this was not brain surgery, but it solved an issue for me, and I hope as a minimum it saves you some time.

Well, I primed the door both sides at the same time but it was hung in a weird position with wire. I don't think anything other than coverage is important with regard to primer. I hand block everything before applying color. So, there is primer under the washer. My plan was to spot repair that area when i take it off the rack. I may even wait until after the door is hung. I have not found a way to avoid some nicks and scratches during the assembly stage so touch up is just a part of the process. Aesthetically the washers and the latch will probably hide this defect effectively. But thanks I forgot to mention that issue and the novice painter might not realize that the area would need touch up at some point. Good catch.

Where these things so often go off the rails is the debate over “correctness” - as in, that shouldn’t be that way, period. There doesn’t appear to be anything in the description that claims it’s The One True Datsun, but rather a nicely maintained and presented example. This is a used car, nearly 50 years old. If there’s no misrepresentation of what it is or isn’t, the discussion about variations and changes can be interesting and educational. But the ego-polishers charge in with their absolutes and the whole process gets hijacked.

I too suffer/benefit from deeper opinion. Graying and thinning hair, no benefits. Edit: shampoo savings=more money for my cars.

Or straight mineral oil just like the old time baseball hitters used on there bats, lets you still feel the wood.

A dip into some good urethane would really bring out the color I think. Looks good as is too.

Not sure what you are referring to: Use original bumpers? You could, but it's just hard finding a good set of 70-72 240Z bumpers. They are getting harder to find, in good condition. For as little as $500 you can have a new aftermarket set. Or fitting 240Z bumpers: The 280Z frame mounting points are different to the 240Z. You can not use the 240Z mounting brackets. There are brackets available to fit 240Z bumpers to a 280Z. I make them for starters.

Old I know but here's a pic thanks to Hoover, @240260280