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@rossiz has SUs on his 280 and I'm pretty sure he runs a/c. He isn't a half full, half empty kind of guy. He does it 100%. Maybe he'll chime in with his insight. Good guy.

I think he was drunk. LOL. Not a show room job by any means but not bad. When I got the car it had no paint on it what so ever and I was getting concerned about salt roads and rust. I am trying to remember where they came from. Why do you ask? I had some electrical issues with alternator and external voltage regulator and if I recall that caused issues with the links. Upgraded to the 60 amp alternator with the internal voltage regulator. Thanks.

http://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/ and http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

I like your new picture Mr Arnett. She's a beauty!

Pretty much all modern cars have aluminum or steel bars under the bumper cover. One of the problems with the z is not the bumpers. It's where the bumpers mount. If the bumpers were super strong, the force would just be transferred to the chassis and hatch floor. It would do alot more damage if it were transferred further into the car. Even the blue car above are starting to be viable for rebuilding due to the price of these cars.

Maybe i should measure the diameter with a caliper first.

It's a $3000 car and no more than that.

Hover cars will be great one of these days. I'll be dead though just like before Alabama has legal weed.

The 240 and 280 front isolators are identical. the difference is the rear, 280's are higher, 1" or more. The lowering springs take car of the front. I have 16" wheels with 205 55 Dunlops, around 3/4" gap to top of fenders. Choose tire size with care.... I will look for a better side pix to post. Orange car is my lowered 77.

Pretty nice paint and a good color. Couldn't the painter find some newspaper to cover the battery and other goodies? Looks like one of those bank robber quick color change jobs. Not terrible, adds character. Are those eBay fusible links? Good luck.

By the way, if this is too much of a pain please let me know. The reasons we are stepping away from our own branded app are due to updates and cost. The application required a monthly obligation (on my part) and the development was getting expensive to maintain (Apple and Google both have annual developer fees). Requirements are changing just about every year and it also takes a lot of time to catch up and keep it active. From what I saw, we have less than 10 people using it and the investment didn't make much sense. Our website also works in a mobile web browser just fine too. It was designed to scale automatically to fit any device (responsive design). Native notifications are also on the way, even without an application.

Hi All, Thanks for all the pics and advice. Spent a 1/2 day measuring, remeasuring, again and again before drilling. Looks great but you can never count on the spoiler manufacture having exact tolerances. The spoiler is 1/4" wider (over hang rear fender) on one side from center point. Oh well with my OCD I'll only look at the driver side of the car.☺️ Great info on the rubber washers, will install. On to paint 901 silver.

Cool thanks. Yeah, it's pretty much the only real issue I have with the car right now (of course there are small things always on a 40+ year old car). After I couldn't get the leak to stop, my solution just became not filling the tank completely full... and THIS is why: https://zcarsource.com/rebuilt-280z-gas-tank-sending-unit-for-the-1975-76-datsun-280z The 75-76 one is $250 for a rebuilt one, and you send them your old one. That's why I was looking at an alternative. And yes, 76 does go in from the side of the tank. I wonder if it would be possible to "block" the hole in the tank, and remove the sender completely? My last DD's fuel gauge didn't work, so I went with the tripmeter reset method... until I didn't want to completely fill the tank. I ran out of gas a few times haha.

I'd get the lowering springs for the 280 and use 240 rear strut insulators. If the drop isn't enough you could also slice of 0.25" off the insulator.

When you get the cooling system repaired, give it a complete (including a valve adj.) tune-up. Tracking down the source of future problems will be a lot easier if you know the basics are good.

Thanks... I don't have the time or the money to take the head off right now, so I'm just trying to get it back into a driving state. I purchased it from someone who grossly lied to me about the condition and I'm just trying to salvage it at this point without breaking the bank. Unfortunately the hole is too big now to just apply some JB Weld... good idea if I had thought of that (or asked) before I starting trying to pry it out.

Start with the size

Had kind of a lazy afternoon testfitting sheet metal before welding in the rockers .... not perfect but workable .... Nice parallel lines ... Inner fender repair fits decent .... Funny how no two sugar scoops are identical ....

Great minds and all that jazz... I too used small "O" rings to seal each of the six bolts when reinstalling my spoiler.

Add new cap, rotor, wires to your tune up list, NGK copper plugs only. Many here like the NGK wire set as well. Look for high resistance connections on the coolant temperature sensor and it's two bullet connections, (needs a solid connection to the ECU to regulate fuel demand).

Me too! You need it when? Dat soon?

There's a few cold start parts that could be bad or out of adjustment. The cold start valve, the AAR auxiliary air regulator both help on first start up.

Red Line fluid for the transmission and the rear differential would be my recommendation. Be sure the differential fill plug will come loose before draining. Good tutorial... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Thanks Phillip, @240260280z

Here ya go. Color is very consistent.

While you're there you should probably replace all of the hoses. Even the injector hoses if they have that braided hose on them, which seems to be on the rail. Probably original. Mine were and they eventually sprung a leak. I smelled fuel, stopped, popped the hood with the engine still running, and a thin stream of raw gasoline shot by my head to the sidewalk. Luckily there were no people walking by, and i had a screwdriver in the car to crank the clamps down. The hoses had tiny lengthwise cracks. You can probably see them with a bright light on the end of the hose. Plus you'll probably bend things if you try to replace the FPR without removing the injectors. I've seen many bent rails.

one more thing, don't be surprised if the engine running number is not 30 after the new FPR, is may only drop few psi from the engine off pressure (around 36-38). I say this since I suspect you may have vacuum leaks to correct, possible idle bypass screw miss adjustment, maybe even a hung up dash pot on the throttle return. You will just have to work the issues one at a time, but the operational FPR is 1st. insufficient vacuum will resullt in higher readings on the FPR while at idle. With that carbon build up on the plugs I suspect the EGR and maybe the PCV valve will need to be looked into as well, a leaking EGR is just like a vacuum leak. You are going to want to get that vacuum gauge and have it ready. You can test the pcv just by seeing if you can hear is rattle when shaking it. The EGR needs to be cleaned if all carbon'd up and test for function when the vacuum is applied to the port that controls the opening and closing.

The bottom of a car door Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The answer is in your picture.

Do it. Fires up like a modern EFI car. Photos on the way. Aluminum stock, bike brake cable, and a few little things. [ATTACH=CONFIG]52658[/ATTACH]

I've actually seen a few motorcyclists out and about in the past 2 weeks... must have a death wish! Aaaand last Saturday a pothole finally got me.... ruined the tire AND bent the aluminum wheel on my DD S10... and the temp spare was flat... but it seemed fine until I lowered the weight on it... so now I have 3 matching wheels, and 1 87 Monte SS wheel. Oh well...