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Toyota's MF10 2000GT was never envisioned as a mass-market product, so the high costs of press tooling for a unitary body were out of the question. Instead, a relatively modern and fairly sophisticated backbone chassis was chosen - similar to that in the Lotus Type 26 Elan, which debuted in 1962. I wouldn't say that the S30-series Z unibody/unitary body was "way ahead of its time". In principle the unit body idea was established and in use in the 1930s, but if we are looking at relatively inexpensive sports/GT cars then the MGB, which debuted in 1962, is a good example of prior use a good 8 years before the Z.

Did I hear someone mention plating prep?

Don’t be such a stranger Zedy......you are one of my favorite Z peeps!

I have use this safely on painted surfaces that are clear coated. 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

I Find it amazing at how closely we built our cars! From the STI diff to the L28, to the 5 speed... WOW. Just need to get me some headlight covers! ?

Wow, been so long since I posted, just been swamped with daddy duty. ? But 5 speed is in and is the bees knees man! I love being able to cruise on the freeway at 70 and not be at 4300 RPM. Z car has been running strong since 2017 ZCON and not batted an eye for any kind of Issues. Very proud of her. My roadster was selected to be in a rare cars of Houston display at the Houston Auto Show in January. I have been busy detailing her. Which leads me to my question. I am trying to get off that black RTV like adhesive you use to secure rubber trim. It is really thick around the entire windscreen and I need to get it all off. It is sitting on paint, so I cannot use brass brushes or the like unless I want to commit to repainting the windscreen. Which I really would rather avoid. How do you get old RTV/adhesive off paint without chemicals that would destroy the paint.

Love the 2000gt also. But there's a big difference in technology in favor of the S30, namely: Until the 1930s virtually every car had a structural frame, separate from its body. This construction design is known as body-on-frame ( 2000gt ). Over time, nearly all passenger cars have migrated to unibody construction ( S30 ), meaning their chassis and bodywork have been integrated into one another. I find it funny no one ever talks about thi in the whole 2000gt VS S30 debate lol, since the S30 is in fact for it's time it came out was way ahead of it's time ( with many other features on the S30 to ), with the unibody construction, while many US car manufacturers still used the body on frame design...

Hey Kats, Here is a 74 model year 260z 2+2 delivered to Australia. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LpRw6YwZb9AyAKjD9 It's a bit of a time capsule so a good example of an original engine bay. Interestingly I don't see the charcoal canister. However my 75 2+2 did indeed have the charcoal canister. I can try and look in the HS30 parts manual for Australian/NZ to see when those emission items were introduced if you're interested?

My '78 280 is 3 and a bit. I guess 3.1 as well. That completes every year 280.

That would go over very well in my neck of the woods too Wayne. We have nothing, not even Uber. The local dicks won't allow sober driver pick up option. We don't even have taxi service here just city owned "dial a ride" mini buses for the really poor folks to get groceries. I've thought about calling and asking if they'd carry me to the liquor store! Maybe something I could do one day? I'd love to have a garage to let people use for minor wrenching. I could sell beer and nachos. Toilet charge also.

You have made me super envious with the type of cars you have been able to interact with. Thank you for sharing all of the information about your cars. Its been really interesting to see how functional the fender mirrors actually are, they appear much more functional than I ever expected.... I'll have to have a longer through this thread later. Amazing seeing another Toyota 2000GT, very much an ultimate dream car for me and by chance spoke to the lady who owns the only one in the UK earlier this week. Makes me want to get out to Japan even more to see the treasurers out there, I just wouldn't know where to start! Ps I love the fact that you just drive a 432 to the airport and leave it in the parking lot ?

And for me, this type of air filer housing is better than the pre August 1973 air filter housing, as it has a separate channel inside (the bulbous bit below where the vacuum can is) which feeds the rear carb with air much more directly.

You could probably rent a lift for the day fairly cheap. Or if you're like me you use it as an excuse to go by one"...but honey, it was on sale!" If you already have the cross member to put back in, you would only need for a few hours.

Very, very nice Moelk. The car sounds and looks terrific! Thanks for the post. Guy

And some extra material he put together

A guy with a youtube channel about cars contacted me awhile ago about shooting my car for an episode. Got the result a couple of days ago. He has added subtitles in english but he misses a couple of things in translation so don’t take it to serious, i have told him so hopefully he will correct them.

Sarah, Keep in mind that if you decide to get back into the Z world, the door is open, and there is a place for you at the table. Between you, @Arne, and @sblake01 (to name just a few), it's always sad to hear about a good contributor to the forum moving away from Z cars. While we know you guys still visit, it's not as much fun as when you were hanging out here all of the time.

This is also true. I would want to use something that's not going to rust. You may also find if you get the fender end of the door lined up with the fender, that the rear edge no longer lies flat. In that case I literally twist the door by hand until I can get it to lay flat. That is one of the nice things about thin doors. This work is easier with out the door latch installed. So you can get the door right without any pressure on it