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Really had a great time at ZCON 2018. Unfortunately, I was only able to take in a couple days at the start of the event. Best part was meeting the guys here at classiczcars.com and putting faces to the names. It was great talking cars an was and awesome event. My thanks to the clubs that put on the event, thanks for all the hard work. Best regards, Rich PS: of course I had to bring the GQ mag for signatures ?

Yes you do. I have been celebrating my 50th birthday for the last ten years.

While I was at Zcon in Atlanta I got to spend some time with Gnosez at the car show. It was a lot of fun and very informative. While we were talking, we ended up on the topic of the Bad Dog frame rails that Gnosez makes and markets. John was telling me that when the frame rails get added to the floor boards they should not be fully seam welded. They need to be spotted in with gaps between weld sections. John was telling me when people have disregarded his advise and fully welded the floor seam, cracks have appeared at the roof joint at the top of the hatch. We were wondering about that joint and since Matsuo San was just a few feet away, we went to ask him about it. When we asked him about that joint, Matsuo San said the car needed to "breathe" and they put that joint there at the hatch. The idea was that the movement, from the car flexing, there at the hatch was better than stressing the A pillar and cracking it instead. He also said that since the chrome window frame is not structurally supportive, it needed to be like that. If the door had a real frame around the glass it might have been different. So for those of us, me included, who have considered making that joint more substantial to prevent cracking, that is not such a good idea if you like your windshield to stay in the car. John may have more to add as he was interpreting for me...

Japanese market models, at launch: S30-S 'Fairlady Z-S'/'Z-S'/'Z-standard' = 'Standard', no frills model. No bumper rubber trims. PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R'/'PZR' = Super lightweight race homologation model. No bumper rubber trims. S30 'Fairlady Z-L'/'Z-DX' = 'Deluxe' model. Comes with bumper rubber trims. PS30 Fairlady Z432/'PZ' = 'Deluxe' version of 432. Comes with bumper rubber trims. So what you are seeing is one of the visible external differences between 'Standard' models and 'Deluxe' models. There were many other differences too. All Japanese models had the extra cost showroom option of bumper overiders, hence the presence of mounting holes in the bumper with black plastic grommets to fill them when not used.

Someone that evaded being photographed but I see her! Ms Maras...

I think you should stick with buying a car instead of spending so much time posting about a car you don't yet have. Good luck with the hunt!

It's a little complicated... Kinda depends on semantics. Your recollection that the flat tops are more desirable is completely wrong. The round tops are much more "desirable" than the flat tops. As proof of that, there are clearly waaaaay more people who desire round tops than flat tops. And all of the above is completely true: In 73 they changed to the flat tops. They have garnered a poor reputation. They have been nicknamed "boat anchors". It is not unusual to see round tops where flat tops originally resided. They are more complex and harder to find parts for than the round tops. And it is difficult to find knowledgeable help with the flat tops. Probably the most important parts are the final two points, but the flip side is... You can make them work great if you can find parts and have knowledgeable help. So the summary is that while the round tops are currently way more "desirable" than the flat tops, there is a small but growing contingent of 73 and 74 Z owners who are bucking the trend and are using flat tops on their cars. With great success I might add. Personally, I was into triple digits at least three times last weekend in Z's powered by flat tops. Those flat tops started great cold, idled fine at all temps, pushed you back into the seat at WOT, and got great gas mileage when your right foot wasn't deep into it.

Have a triple set of SK 40mm carbs. Comes with isolators and filter gaskets. Asking 1000 OBO.

I am not sure I would buy inner wheel wells if I was going to flair the car. I would want the flairs in hand and I might just extend the metal on out to the quarter. That way I can run big rubber without worrying about rubbing the wheel arch. I would cut the wheel arch up to clear the rubber but still be hidden by the wheel arch.

Kats, Let's face it. ANY of those would be welcome. Just think of ZCON 2020 as a continuation of the celebration starting in Japan in December 2019. There's no reason we can't celebrate the anniversary for a full year.

I believe this photo was taken at the Nissan press writers test driving event - where various members of the Japanese automotive press actually got their first drives in the various new S30-series models - held on November 5th 1969, and over the following days.

Considering the complex curve and shape, this inner fender piece is better "bought" than "built" IMHO

Curious in this advert, the one car has no paint protector on the bumper and no bumper rubber whatsoever? Vs the 432 has it? Also notice the holes for the bumperettes, but no bumperettes? Interesting to not see the paint bumper protector in so many restorations?

Haha! Save your pennies, keep looking, and something will certainly turn up!

LOL, this is typical from back in the day... of not having the knowledge how these Hitachi's work, so just slap on a 4 barrel downdraft :P

Uhmmm no...

Lol, to be honest I don't have the money right now... It will take at least a year (probably) before I get one, because I first wanna get a truck to pull the trailer I'll hide it in On top of that I'm not working, as we recently moved and still getting used to living on a ranch. I'll find my car in time, I just want to get the right one and for that, I'll keep lurking

@jayhawk Thanks for that link! I actually think I watched part of that video a couple years ago, but I'd forgotten all about it until you posted it. Definitely had some good details, like using the tweezers for the float pin, and was nice to see someone working on the exact same carb I have. The grease on finger trick was also something I never would have thought of, but will definitely help getting some of those nuts back on. Based on how much fuel came out of his one carb, I think I'm on the right track. Both my carbs had very little fuel in them when I opened the bowl. @Captain Obvious Thanks for the additional advice! I ordered a couple rebuild kits so I can replace the gaskets, valve, etc. No point in having to take the carbs apart again for that in the near future (assuming I get it dialed in decently after this first attempt). I plan to clean up the outside also, especially that window, so hopefully I won't have too much trouble seeing the fuel level. I have a mirror I use on my bicycle helmet which works beautifully since it's on an adjustable stick. Also, my secret trick is wearing a head lamp when I work. Always puts light right where I need it. I also didn't know that the car wouldn't start without the air cleaner on... good to know! Hopefully the rebuild kits arrive by Saturday and I can do this all over the coming weekend. Michael

OK, thanks for the explanation, but personally speaking I feel the North American concept of 'Model Year' is a commercial aspect of business practice that doesn't have much place in the commemoration of design debut dates. A 1969 S30-series Z is a 1969 S30-series Z to me. I don't want to wait until I'm 58 for my 57th birthday...

So here we are, 24th October 2018 and the 49th anniversary of the doors opening to the general public at the 1969 Tokyo Motor Show - the official public debut of Nissan's S30-series Z car range. Here's looking forward to the Big 50...

I have a saying... “things could always be worse”... That helps keep things in perspective for me!

Can't understand peoples prejudices against them--- 1973 bone stock 240z with flat tops and points distributor 104 mph on the back straight at CotA in Austin TX 2017 120 mph personal best on a long straight going to Road Atlanta last week 24.4 mpg averaged over ~1600 miles round trip AR to ZCON 2018 and back (not hyper-mileing) Dedicated choke circuit for cold mornings I'm happy with the flat tops---yes they are more difficult to set up properly as the primary adjustments are all internal and can't be done with the carbs on the intake (floats and fuel nozzles), parts are scarce and expensive, but once that it is done I see no reason why they would not perform for a very long time with little additional service required. Many of the reported problems with them is due to a lack of routine maintenance of the engine in general. (valve adjustment, timing, plugs, points rotor and cap) If the quoted Dave Epstein was serious with his comments I wouldn't let him near my car----

We've all safely returned home with the treasure of everlasting memories of the people, cars, and events that made the fabric of ZCON Atlanta 2018. Weather that complied, traffic that was bearable, planning that worked. While the cars are billed as the attraction, the chance to meet--- at least once in a lifetime--- these people so dedicated to the furtherance of the Z is unmatched by any other aspect. Legendary figures of our community were everywhere there. Enthusiastic youngsters and wise old owls. From stock to ultra modified. From project to weekend cruiser to pristine show car to champion racer---it had it all. And to think the Z began with this man---- and I met and I shook his hand and I thanked him.

here it is, the test setup is to eliminate all other variable (fuel rail, pump, lines) and just test the action of the static pressure test. I don't know for sure but I like the idea of the OE style pump have the built in regulation to not go too high, IIRC its 42psi, I doubt its super accurate but still better IMHO than some of the after markets that state they put out 90psi, that is a lot to bleed back. Perhaps the FPR is ok with that, but why chance it? anyway like I said its just my opinion I have no actual long term test to say aftermarket pumps are a problem.

Alright so it has been a few weeks, funds were allocated and other projects were tended too. We swapped in a new Bosch 64018 Fuel Pressure Regulator and the pressure on the rail stays rock solid at 40-PSI. Before it would steadily climb to 42/44-PSI if you raced the engine a bit. At this point, we are going to drive the car on the street/highway a bit and check the plugs. I've banged my head around other possibilities.. maybe the voltage supply is high at the fuel pump and the stock regulator still can't keep up even though this is a 'stock' replacement. One way to check is to see what the pump pressurizes the system with the oil pressure sensor unplugged and the car turned off. The car does have the alternator swapped for a 60A ZX alternator. I have reached out to Delphi for a map of their pump for reference. Has anyone else run the Delphi pump with factory rails and measured fuel pressure? It almost seems inevitable that a palnet rail and adjustable fpr is needed in this application in order to bring the pressure down. The engine is the most responsive I've ever experienced and initial issues seem to be gone but I wouldn't be surprised to see fouled plugs in the near/distant future to recreate some of those issues. As always, I appreciate everyone's help and the car has improved leaps and bounds prior to the start of this thread.

For all of Alan's Alan-isims, you have to love and respect him. He is a great resource and shares a lot of interesting information that few in the world have. We are a band of brothers and sisters here..... life is too short to waste time bickering. Just look for someone's good points and life will be better for all....

Manifold is all welded up and sanded... Just the polishing left now! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Hi Wayne, Really appreciate your work on this and everyones input. Cant wait to print it on our plotter tomorrow and hang it up in the garage. Chas

Wayne, My pleasure! Honestly I'm the one benefiting greatly from this drawing and I'll do whatever I can to make it better. And no hurry on the next rev. Maybe other suggestions will come up. You'll never tell.

No apologies necessary! None!! This document is fantastic, and even counting the tail chasing this time, this document adds so much value that I'm way ahead of the game! I'm not aware of any other issues at this time. Thank you!! I applaud all the efforts, and I'm just glad I could help make an already fantastic document a tiny bit better.

This vehicle was mechanically in great shape until an unaware texting driver smashed into the rear-passenger corner. 46K original miles, and matching numbers. not-stock 5-Speed (rebuilt), front and rear anti-sway, double weber carbs, very little rust. Extras, also available: Custom racing cam (never used), Dellorto 6-pack (rebuilt, but a few small missing parts), nice quality 240Z car-cover (used but good condition), extra wiring harness (used, but good condition), extra windshield (very good condition), and a 1978 280Z hood with louvers (very good condition). Please only sincere/interested buyers. I can provide photos. I'm told that the body can be repaired with a big frame-puller, or this vehicle can provide good hard-to-find parts.