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What he said. Don't mess with the AFM until you have exhausted all other options. But speaking of such things... I just finished my handy-dandy patent pending AFM adjustment tool. No more risk of SPROING-ing my spring anymore! Looks like this: And here's how it's used. The tip fits in the little hole and the tool gear meshes with the AFM gear and allows controllable adjustment without worrying about losing control. I wasn't there when they calibrated the AFMs at the factory, but I suspect they used something like this:

I'm not sure that production is really a good idea... I worry that would just encourage people to mess with their AFM's when they probably shouldn't. My AFM came to me already messed with, and the glue blobs completely removed from the inside. Even with bright light, magnification and careful study, I could never determine where my AFM started. My PO removed all traces of the original calibration marks. All I knew was that my car ran very rich, has aftermarket injectors, and my PO messed with everything including the AFM. I had exhausted all other avenues and came to the back-hand conclusion that my PO messed up my AFM. It would certainly have fit his MO. He was after "more power", and I think someone told him that "more fuel makes more power" so he tweaked the AFM. I have since re-tweaked my AFM and it runs waaaaaay better now. So about the tool... I do have a milling machine, but I didn't use it for the gear teeth. I did the teeth on a "shaper". I'm sure you know what that is, but for those who never heard of one, the shaper is the predecessor to the milling machine. Old school. The saying is "You can make anything you want on a shaper. Except money." One tooth at a time and then rotate the workpiece to the next position using an indexing head: Here's a shot of my ancient indexing head. From the late 1800's or very early 1900's: Sorry for the thread-jack!

Designed and I’m in the process of printing some wheel caps. Laser cut the logos in acrylic. Caps printed in TEPG filament.

Here is a decent one. It needs to be cleaned and likely repainted to make it pretty, but its straight, functional, has a filter and yes I have the wing bolts to go with. PM me or email me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll talk turkey. No wait, thankgiving is just over here, I've had enough turkey.

I got a new gun/ nozzle system. I accidentally bought two so if anyone wants one let me know. Hose is now 3/4 for the slurry pump, air is 5/8. So much much bigger. Hopefully moves a lot more slurry. Also the nozzle tip can be changed out. It can be 4,5,6,8,10, 12 and 14mm. I found the nozzle by doing some youtube stalking of vapor honing stuff. I kind of feel bad about it.

Cut out my strut towers Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm planning to go anyway. Someone reminded me it's more than just a car.

Too much going on at work. Cross my fingers for next year Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I know it's not Saturday nite, but....

Are you coming to Atlanta? Zconn is almost in our back yard!

Hmm, auction ended just a couple of minutes after my original post....

This can be purchased separately and is available in 918 Orange

He's reading your post.

The only thing it's lacking is a built in blender for tailgate party Margaritas. Dennis

If the green car is your 00051, that would be great!! No rear defroster, no OK sticker , and , all the glasses looked clear glass , to seeing the things through the glasses looked just it is , non tinted . What do you think of it to compare your 00051 ? Kats PS : I took my ZG today for 500 km trip to see Mr. Yamamoto ( OK Racing ) very fun to drive , I feel this car is faster than my Z432 . Maby the same if I judge them by the stop watch . But this L24 with SU / 5 speed with 3.9 rear diff , and the G nose . These things make this car so fast and quiet , stable on the highway , and fun to steer on a mountain road . Mr. K must be smiling in his yellow G nose 240Z . Why did not Mr. K give a choice for customers as a variation model in the US ? It should not be an optional parts , should be ? Cost matter ? Styling taste ? Japan is the only country where G nose is available with the car , some other destinations received as an optional parts . Kats

It runs and is drivable. You're ahead of many. A few things I saw that I didn't see mentioned by others: You should never see 16 volts on the voltmeter. That's not a fusible link problem, that's a bad alternator (actually the regulator in the internally regulated alternator). Assuming that the wires to the T plug on the alt are intact. I think that 4 speeds were an option in 1978. 5 speeds were standard issue. But they are direct swaps so it's possible somebody just blew up the original 5 speed and swapped in an old 4 speed. The engine does not have a functional PCV system. The little filter on the valve cover is a sign. If it was tuned to stock settings it wouldn't even run with the opening to the crankcase, through the valve cover. Unfortunately that means you probably have a tuning adventure ahead of you as you get things back to stock condition. Overall, with the fusible link silicone and the valve cover filter, it looks like somebody has been hacking in the engine bay. good luck. Check out the downloads section for an official 1978 FSM.

Thanks for the warm welcome and advice, guys. This forum has already helped out with a number of things, so I plan on sticking around and utilizing it to get this BP back to the condition it deserves. May see if I can eventually contribute to the knowledge here and there. ? I've started a thread archiving the progress we've made up til now. Be sure to check it out:

I’m out guys. My back is not doing so well. Sitting in one position is the worst scenario for me. I guess my tune up was a failure .