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For those of you thinking of a switch to Maxima rear calipers on their S30 I have a bit of a warning. I installed the Z Car Depot rear emergency cable brackets on my 1976 280Z. I am using the larger 11.4" / 289 mm rotors off the Canadian model NA 300ZX . This requires a 1986 Maxima rear caliper which has a larger frame offset than the smaller 10.1"/ 256mm . Note that reman calipers often have the wrong frames supplied. So it can be a real PITA finding the correct frames for the larger rotors. Took us Four sets of calipers to finally find the correct ones. Note. A-1 cardone and Centric seem to be the only manufacturers that list the different frame brackets. Any how. Two problems with the Z Car depot calipers. 1: As delivered. The center hole is too small for the 280Z rear cable to fit through. It has to be drilled larger by about 0.80". Actually a carbide tipped grinder works better as the hole has a cutout to slip the cable through. That causes the Drill to " walk " and create an oblong hole. Nuts!! 2: If you are using the larger 289mm 300ZX rotors, the cable bracket will align the emergency cable smack dab in the middle of your rear sway bar. Not good. You have to Bend the bracket some more to change the angle. Not good as it's freakin" thick. 3: If you are using the smaller 256 mm 300ZX rotors, you will probably be OK... as the emergency cable should now clear the rear sway bar. I needed the larger rear rotors to balance my brake bias. I have 11.750" front rotors with Z32 4 Pot aluminium calipers. Need all the rear brake I can get.

My Zilver is hankerin' to get spruced up for ZCON 2018 in Atlanta. 1st on my list of many: NOS Nichira muffler waiting to take its first deep breath--no more deductions for a "rusty tailpipe" or "can dirt". In storage for years. Time to go to work.

I went AN throughout my fuel system all the way back to the pump at the tank, although that is not how I started off. I knew little about these when I started the install but this site provided a ton of information on the fittings, how to assemble, etc. So if you haven't been here yet I recommend it highly. They also sell all of the parts as well: https://www.anplumbing.com/adapters/aluminum-adapters.html I'm running triples and so my install is a little different. However, when I originally started down this path, I did not want to go all the way to the tank and so I ended up cutting and flaring the OEM fuel hard line so that I could make the conversion from hard line to AN. I found this hard line adapter on the site listed above. They also make banjo fittings for AN but I believe you can also get a direct thread in to the carbs from an AN as well. Check the site above. One last thing. I hope you have deep pockets. Although I would do it again in an instant, it is not an inexpensive proposition. Just a heads up. Here's a few pictures of my install. If you have any other questions, just let me know. Mike.

920 Safari gold with shaved side marker on the Z31 fender. I cannot wait to see the whole car in this color!

so that there will be room on the dip stick for the stop-leak seal conditioner.

Seems like the US cars were all red, Europe and others required amber. If I remember right. I bought mine from futofab.com and love 'em.

Yes, high temp gloss clear coat for the serial number. Yes, I checked that when I picked it up from the shop. I can't even feel a mild depression in this area. I thought i might feel a ridge or something,but it is as smooth and linear as the rest of the cylinder.

Cleco, then zip cut, then tack, then butt weld. That’s what worked best for me. Cleco’s are great for test fitting.

I'm doing this:

Working on Cody's goon. Trying to get it Hwy ready. Also working on momma's 350z to get new cats on it and a re-engineered clutch pedal. I am going to borrow it from her for the week. Look ma no hands!!! ?

The fire has burned over 13,000 acres and is now about 90% contained. We were downwind for a few days and got a lot of ash even though the fire was several miles away. Not as bad as the fires in Northern California, but still a loss for people in the community that burned. All safe and good here, just ashy. Dennis

That car is sooo...sligthly worse than my 27th! If you get the car and want to cut the roof off, I might go for the roof. Is that rust or dents on the leading edge? Otherwise, it looks pretty good? Agreed, that car is toast. I did see some interesting parts, though. And never discount the hardware you can salvage. All the little clips and tabs, the nuts and bolts. They can get polished up and re-plated pretty easily. I would be interested in the steering shaft, perhaps the rack. Does it have tool lids behind the seats? I could go for those. The a/c compressor is vintage. How's the wiring harness? Let me know what you decide. I say the car is worth $1,200

Yep. Drivers door opened and closed fine, passenger would not. I honestly think it was hit in the rear too. True color is safari gold, but there appears to be a bend in the rear deck right where the strut tower meets on passenger side which I thought was odd, but then also look at the non original gas tank lid and the lime showing through and under the bumper as well. Plus the rot from the inside where the emblem was is really bad and looked like bonds too. To many unknowns. I know he wants to get rid of it. I’m sure he will call me back and I’ll offer him $500. He won’t take it but I really don’t need it.

I sold my first 240z back in 2001 (because I had bought another 240z), I still regret it. Learnt my lesson. Never sell them! Hence I've got 4 now lol..

Cliff - I just saw the pic of your car that you posted in the "Tail Light Issue" thread. It looks like you have the aftermarket bumper sold by MSA and others. If so, that is the model of bumper I had problems with because the arc of the center bar was too shallow for the curve of the valance on my car. That probably explains why yours is so close. At least you had more success than me in that you were able to get it installed. Yaayyyy!!!

Finally, just last week the car went to media blasting. As of right now, we're grinding out the areas that need patching or have heavy filler covering rot and rusted out areas - overall not as bad as I expected but as you can see the fenders are not in great shape. I may think about replacing them. As you can see from the second picture below, the roof has lost all integrity since I removed the sunroof that was installed. I'm picking up a donor roof on Saturday in Sacramento and will let my body guy take the replacement job as it's just too much for me. Looking forward to getting that done as it's a big eye sore at the moment.

Done! Many, many thanks to everyone who replied. Bearing mind I've never driven a 240 in the rain, I am disappointed at the speed of the wipers, and definitely will be following Zerpie's advice and switching to a more powerful brand of WW motor. This forum is really exceptional, with so many knowledgeable people ready to share their experience and wisdom. I think I'd better sign up for a monthly contribution. Cheers, Richard

I have decided to sell my 1974 260Z 2+2 as is. It has been garaged since I purchased it in 1993. It has not been driven or started for about 15 years. I want $5,000 for it as is.

As I had a hard time trying to find info on dealer-installed A/C's, I wanted to share what I was able to come across. Please note that I've since sold this setup, but it should give those of you interested in A/C some ideas.

My niece and her husband who is a firefighter lost their house in the Redding fire, he is still on the job.