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Mike W

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Everything posted by Mike W

  1. I have used the Spicer U-Joints on both the half shafts as well as the drive shaft and am very happy with the performance. Most recently I rebuilt a used set of half shafts using the Spicer U Joints (5-1505X) when we upgraded our diff and have had no issues with them since the initial install back in 2017. I purchased them at Autoplicity as they had the best pricing at the time. You can find them here at an even lower price that I paid almost 4 years ago. https://autoplicity.com/2016476-dana-spicer-axle-products-drivetrain-components?openOptions=True Hope that helps. Mike
  2. The threads on the valve itself are 1/8 NPT. You would either need to get an adapter that converts that to the metric fittings on the Z lines or remake the lines with the appropriate fittings. They actually sell a version with SAE adapters included. You can find it here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Motors-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-With-Fittings,387281.html As far as mounting it, I attached a 1/8 inch aluminum "plate" to the side of the valve and drilled and tapped a hole in that plate. I then used a small right angle bracket that attaches to the valve in the new t
  3. I encountered the same issue when I changed to a big brake kit from Arizona Z car including the change to discs on the rear. In my opinion the Wilwood prop valve is big and clunky and I wanted something more compact that ideally could be installed in the same position as the OEM fixed prop valve. So I ended up using this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Compact-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,1979.html It's really small and adjustable but does require conversion fittings to adapt to metric lines. Alternatively you could change the fittings on the lines themselves
  4. Well I just checked my install as I do not recall any interference problems. I ended up plugging that hole with an allen wrench style fitting and it just clears the manifold by about a millimeter or so. Here a few pictures to illustrate.
  5. Mike W

    led bulbs

    Well I located my spreadsheet for the LED bulb replacement. I have a late 260Z but pretty sure all of the bulbs for the gauges were the same. I believe that all of the bulbs I purchased came from Amazon. When I decided to do this I bought a variety of bulbs to try out and I also performed a sort of longevity test on the bulbs. I had found when I did this same thing to my F-150 a number of the LED's from Amazon burned out quickly and given the tediousness of changing them in the Z I did not want to have to deal with bad bulbs right after they got installed. So far all of mine have been
  6. Mike W

    led bulbs

    The BA9 example I used was just an example of the ones that are not sensitive to polarity so I'm not sure if these are the brightest ones you can get. When I did my interior gauges I did a lot of experimentation on bulb color, and ended up trying quite a few different options. One thing to consider is the possibility of removing the green plastic filters inside of the gauges. With the filters still installed, you will be limited to the size of the bulb you can use as the filter will restrict the bulb length. I tried both green and white bulbs with and without the filters and in the end I r
  7. Mike W

    led bulbs

    You can get LED's which are not sensitive to polarity and that makes this job a lot easier. Go to Super Bright LEDs dot com and they have a variety of these for our cars. Here's an example: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/3/ Hope that helps. Mike.
  8. ZCON is still a go as far as I know. Chris Karl posted a few times on Facebook this past weekend when he and some of his ZCON team were in Nashville locking things down. Not exactly sure how they are going to deal with the big crowds, especially at the opening and closing banquets, but I understand they have a plan. If I hear anything else I'll try and provide an update here. Mike.
  9. I used this exact same switch that the OP posted. I ended up mounting it on the inside of the glove box so it could not be seen and would also provide a convenient way of resetting it from inside the car in the event of it tripping. I've been running it this way for quite a number of years and have never had an issue. Hope that helps. Mike.
  10. I plan to get rid of the downdrafts and in fact already have a new stroker motor in development. Will probably be going ITB’s on this build.
  11. Charles, Good to hear that someone else has used DB Electric and with positive results / reviews. They are only the distributor in this case but they appear to be a very solid company. Phil, Yes I think you can interchange a number of the individual parts. I was considering using the new motor, solenoid, gears, etc from the new one and the casing from the original Nissan one, but I haven't made that decision yet. Having said that I do think that swap would easily work. Mike.
  12. So for some reason I have not had a lot of luck with the rebuilt aftermarket starters that are available through most of the normal outlets. I have gone through numerous ones, both the original style as well as the gear reduction style, and for some reason they just don't seem to last. The most recent episode of this was while I was visiting my brothers in the Chicago area. I had hauled my Z up to my brother's home outside of Chicago and over the course of the week, we attended numerous shows and cruise ins in the area. Was a real blast until the last day, when the starter appeared to have
  13. Here's a link to the same person in Japan that I bought mine from 4-5 years ago: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260z-280z-Harada-Intake-manifold-for-triple-Mikuni-Webers/283568679779?hash=item420602ab63:g:upIAAOSwVvBdRLCj @Rio24 I do not recall that my issue was worse with heat soak. It seemed to happen all of the time so perhaps you are dealing with something a little different. Mike.
  14. @Rio24 Yes I had a rather severe return to idle issue with my old Cannon manifold and it certainly contributed to the problem, but the manifold itself was not the only issue. The main issue with the Cannon wrt this problem is that the 3 heim joints do not line up and I found on my setup that this misalignment caused excessive friction and a very slow return to idle. I had to use rather heave return springs which really impacted the drivability of the car and so I needed to find a better solution. I ended up eliminating the center joint but doing this made the main throttle rod
  15. I can probably help you with the 123 ignition. I believe that I was one of the first to actually install and use this in a Z and did a pretty extensive write up after I completed the install. You can find my thread here: All in all I am very happy with the system although there are a few quirks you should know about before you start. A quick summary for you: 1. On install the instructions will tell you to get the engine to TDC, install the 123 and apply power, and then turn it in the direction of rotation until a little green LED lights up. In theory that should put the 123 also
  16. Thanks Blue for the compliments!! My engine bay is actually toned down a little now from the way it was in Memphis. I've replaced my valve cover with one that is powder coated black, moved the breather to the back of the cover, and routed my wires around the front of the cover rather than over it. You see more of the engine that way and given that its black its easier on the eyes!! Haha! Here's an update picture.
  17. I was one of the first people to use the 123 ignition on a Z and I have been running this setup since 2015. I concur that the setup and install instructions are lacking and I too experienced an advanced timing situation after the initial "LED Install" procedure but unfortunately did not realize this for quite some time so I was running more advanced that I originally thought. Fortunately nothing catastrophic happened to my engine and I was able to correct this by checking the initial settings with a timing light. Although the 123 people indicated in their emails to the OP that timing should
  18. I was one of the earliest users of the 123 ignition in a Z car and so have quite a bit of experience with it over the years that I have used it. I can also tell you that I had a similar advance problem at idle with my initial install. If I remember correctly, and according to the install instructions, everything needs to be at TDC on the engine. You install the 123 distributor, apply power, and turn it until an LED turns on and that's where you are supposed to lock the distributor in place. However, after some trial and error, I figured out that at idle I was at about 30 degrees advan
  19. For the last few weeks every time I try to open the mobile app I get an "Invalid License" error message. It continues to say "This forum is currently not available on this app. Please contact the forum administrator." Is anyone else having this problem? Mike.
  20. Really glad this helped out!! Before I used the 123 system I ran a Mallory Unilite with the MSD box but found that the tach would not operate properly with the tach signal from the MSD. I tried a couple of different adapters, both passive and active, and the active one worked best, so that's whats in my car. However, it should not be required just to get the car to run. It is only used to provide a proper signal to the tach so it works correctly. Mike.
  21. OK. I'm the original poster on this thread and may have been the first, or one of the firsts, to use the 123 ignition on an L6 Z engine. I also use an MSD 6AL on mine and have had no issues with it since it was originally installed. I will say that when I was first contemplating using the 123 system, there was a note I believe on the 123 Ignition site in Europe, that indicated using a multi spark ignition system with the 123 was not recommended. I ended up contacting their US rep who put me in touch with their chief engineer in Europe so I could understand more about the MSD issue. Turns
  22. Thanks for the nice words!! All four corners are the same wheels. 16 x 8.25. Weird size but that's what they are. Rubbing in the rear occurred on the outer lip. At 0 offset there are no issues on the inside at all. Plenty of clearance with the strut and spring. Mike.
  23. I would have to check my CD microfiche to see exactly when they changed the design of the rack, but I do believe that the Captain is correct that it was around the time of the 260 transition. As far as 260 manufacture dates, I'm pretty sure that the "small bumper" 260 ended production in 8/74 and the "large bumper" 260 went from 9/74 to 11/74. My car is a large bumper 260Z and has an 11/74 manufacture date. I believe that it was one of the last 260's to be built (for the US market). I agree with the other comments about the rack bushings. Those definitely need to be changed. If t
  24. I'm going to chime in on this as I just went through a very lengthy exercise to source a new set of tires and wheels for my car. So for reference, mine is a late manufacture 260Z (read that as 280Z). I run Eibach lowering springs and Tokiko illuminas. My present setup uses 16 x 7" Konig Rewinds (0 offset) on Michelin Pilot Sport 225-50X16. I have zero clearance problems on the front and some very minor rubbing on the rear when I go over hard bumps at speed. Rolling the rear fenders solved 90% of that problem. My only regret is that I did not do the rolling before the car was painted
  25. So to add a little controversy to this discussion, I have had raging debates with a number of my Z club members about the wisdom of using Dot 5 silicon fluid versus the more conventional Dot 3/4 fluid. To me the benefits of using a non corrosive fluid (to paint) out weighed the negatives that I had read about Dot 5, so I gave it a try about 2 years ago when I installed a big brake kit on my car. I can say for certain that I do not have poor pedal feel and in fact my pedal feels a little better than with Dot 3/4. I have not noticed any differences in stopping power, although with the b
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