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I haven't tried the conversion to a 260Z or 280Z distributor. I went with the ZX conversion in my 73. A PO did the conversion in my 74. The 260Z and 280Z used a transistor ignition unit (TIU) to control the spark. You would to need to figure out how to install a TIU into the car. Another alternative would be to use a GM HEI to trigger the spark. There is information online (including this forum) from people who have converted their cars to use an HEI module. I cannot say what would happen to your tachometer with either conversion. It may require figuring out how to adapt a 260Z or 280Z tach into your wiring.

Possibly an over-zealous refresh. Here is a photo before the refresh: Here is another (with green distributor cap too)

And it's finally assembled with the fuel lines! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Well I didn't make to the Edmonton show with the Z. Just ran out of time on Saturday solving a little ignition problem. Took the 510, had fun. Today I worked through the ignition problem. Very interesting problem and solution. I had an intermittent spark miss as you apply throttle under load, getting worst as the RPM's rise. Long story short, it boiled down to bad connections. Even though I used brand new spade connector crimps with brand new terminals and a pro crimper to connect to various spades on the ballest resistor and terminal strips on the coil terminals, they were making poor connections when pushed onto the terminals. The fix was stop using them and go to soldered on ring terminals on the coil posts, and soldering on wires to the ballast resistor to completely remove the use of the spade connectors. They seem to press on tightly, but if you wiggle them once all the way one, they are NOT tightly connected. And they get worse each time you disconnect them. These are terminals purchased from Vintage Connections. They sell two qualities of the female 1/4" spade connectors. One are made of thin brass, the other is much thicker and stiffer, BUT they latch SO tightly that you pretty much can't push a 4 or more terminal connector together with pliers. The thinner ones are great, BUT if you mate them more than once or twice, they FM side loosen up and the connection goes to pot. Both have their issues. Along the way I also discovered two, yes two bad NEW mechanical fuel pumps. At one point I was wondering about fuel volumes under load and if that maybe part of the "missing" problem, ie going lean. I had installed one of these "tin can" style replacements that I foolishly bought a while ago, when I first got this thing running again. Maybe it is as bad as they say, I think. So I recently bought a GMB brand pump that looks like the original, so I put it on. It worked for about 10 min of test and tune driving. Suddenly the car wouldn't restart. As I was in the throws of solving ignition problems, I was about to light a fire under it all, wonder WTH could possibly be wrong now. It usually starts instantly with the slightless touch of the key. So I take a hose off of one carb, and crank the motor. Not even a dribble. You've GOT to be kidding me. Take the hose off the pump outlet. Still not even a dribble. So I put the tin can back on. I leave the hose off to see what it is doing. Well it's dribbling, but sure as hell not pumping properly. Ok, that's it, off it comes, both go in the scrap metal bin, and I pull out my NOS Kyoto or whatever pump I've been hoarding and bolt that on. OMG that thing pumps like a freaking fire hose. I'm still stinking of gas from the bombardment. So, DO NOT use that tin can thing (didn't we already know that?) and don't bother with the $37 GMB pump, it's trash too. I'll have to take it apart and see what ripped. So today's lesson? Even when you have a bunch of NEW parts, no matter how carefully installed, don't trust nothing. And now I can go for a decent little toodle around town this evening and get some proving miles on this thing and GET IT SOLD.

Your battery is probably so dead that the alternator can't keep the voltage up at low RPM. If you went from a stone dead battery to driving the car after getting a jump, that's a n issue. It puts a heavy load on the alternator also. We all use jumper cables at will but sometimes they shouldn't be used. Should have charged the battery up first. Plus letting a battery go completely dead is bad for it. They often don't recover. Check your voltages.

Here's that writeup with the wiring scheme.

Excellent price for a Series I car. Congrats, Chuck!

I guess I did ok then. $1400 and he drove over an hour to deliver it. Chuck

The reason why the early 280ZX distributor is a popular upgrade is simplicity. It is a complete unit with the "matchbox" TIU built into the side. Less wiring. The 260Z and 280Z units use a bulky external TIU outside the distributor and preferably wired in the cabin out of the weather. Using a 4-pin HEI module would reduce the bulkiness, but it's still external. The 280zx dissy has a better more powerfull VR pick-up and runs a 12v coil, no resistor block. The 260Z and 280Z up to August 77 used a 7v coil and resistor.

Not sure I recall but I can deduce from context. No problem ?

Some more progress and some more discoveries. I captured a picture of the cover with the bolts pointing to their home for a reference. I had already labeled the others on my bench. Much like all others it was covered in grime. An initial cleaning got a lot off but a final cleaning it still needed. On a good note, there are no broken bolts in the timing cover or the block including the 10mm at the 10:30 position as referenced above. I cleaned out the one hole in the block that I thought had a broken bolt in it. Turned out it was packed with orange gasket sealant. A sharp pick got most of it out and all threads will receive a good clean out with a tap before everything is reassembled. Unfortunately one of the water neck bolts snapped off. I currently have some ATF and Acetone sitting on it and had fed it a few times this evening. I will feed it some more in the morning before heading to work and try to get it out with some heat tomorrow evening. Any thoughts on my harmonic balancer? My search has uncovered that no one makes an original style balancer and the aftermarket stuff from MSA and Z Car Depot do not accept stock Datsun pulleys should I ever decide to install A/C in the car.

Yea it was a nightmare taking it off a 240z I owned.

Looks beautiful, very nice job! Just a few quick comments. My early '70 did not come with decals on the air filter so I am thinking that you would not need those. I am not sure when the decals started showing up, but I would guess yours did not come with those originally. Also, the timing chain cover looks unique. Mine has ridges in it. Maybe the early ones were flat like in your picture.

The aluminum and steel drums are both available at MSA. The aluminum ones aren't very cheap though about $130 each versus $43 for the steel ones

Here you go... The marked one with tape is the fronts.

That filter looks NASTY! I would agree with your suspicion that there is junk in the tank. As far as the AC goes, am I missing something here? I didn't see a compressor or AC lines in your video.