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Removed the tint from my 73.......

As opposed to the rest of us completely normal and well socialized examples of humanity!

Pulled the F54/P79 out of the parts car finally. Not sure how I want to build it yet. Whether stock or some moderate performance gains. The '80ZX I have on the road now doesn't need rebuild yet, but I believe I've read that the N47 head on that car with a more aggressive cam coupled with the F54 would produce some good performance gains. For now I will break it apart and see what's what. It'll be my 1st L series rebuild. I will be getting ahold of the how to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun L series book for sure. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I also made some other modifications to my blasting cabinet. I siliconed every seam I could. I built a dust cyclone out of two 5 gallon buckets which are connected to a shop vacuum. So my cabinet never clouds up. The only downside is the vacuum could be quieter. When the media seems low I just empty the cyclone back into the cabinet. The filter sees very little dust because of the cyclone...

Did some Black Zinc plating today...Turned out really nice IMO..

You should report that to ebay. I believe if there was no reserve, he is obligated to some degree. You should sic the ebay dogs on him. First for counterfeit parts, then for improper business practices.

If you are disappointed that you were unable to be ripped-off on Ebay there is still craigslist https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/wto/d/240z-dhubcaps-from-69-70/6520499119.html

I let him know that these are reproductions.

Dear Kats, thank you so much for this rare insight and information. Really interesting read. As for the topic, i'd like to add a few of my own documents. 1. The swiss 240Z Sales brochure which i got from my good friend Stefan a while ago. These are scans from above original printed sales brochure which he found and donated to me. It was found in an old stock at an ex Datsun, now nissan Dealership. Enjoy the read While the B/W pictures inside are probably some Nissan / Datsun stock photos, the one on the first and last pages (red colored car) show the typical Swiss car with front and rear spoiler, which is also mentionend especially in the text about aerodynamics. Most cars were delivered like that over here. It's a common practice for swiss car import companies (like nissan switzerland) to add parts, which are optional in other markets, as a standard feature to boost "sportiness" of a car, as switzerland has a higher density of sporty cars compared to surrounding countries. It's also interresting to see how they advertised it by explaining the aerodynamics with some details, with it's rallye heritage and with the fact that it was very popular in america. In general the description is very technical. really trying to explain how good and simple the car is. Quite funny when comparing it with todays sales brochures, which is all about emotions and how practical a car is. 2nd: The swiss homologation fiches in french, Which i got from t he swiss car registry office. On a side note, we have four official languages in switzerland (german, french, italian and romanian). So most docuements are available in italien, french an german, while romanian is only for a small part of switzerland which all of them also speak a second official language. What is particulary interresting here is the second page: It says the chassis used for homologation was HLS30-00243 and the document was released on 6. May 1970. in the additional notes at the bottom it mentions which bulbs have to be used for the lamps. It also mentions the IKI 5004 side markers used and that they had to install a second set of taillights (type ULO K 11254), since the original set that came with the car was leaky. on the third page (additinional sheet, this time in german) there were some later informations like - what kind of lamps where installed Note fom 10. november 1971) - Where the car's serial number is found (note from 19. July 1972) - Note from 7. February 1973, that from Chassis-nr HLS30-132850 a brake boost / force limiter (don't know the official english word for it) was installed for the rear brakes, to reach the braking performance requirements, which were introduced after the car's initial homologation.

Good tips! I use a powerful led flood light on top of the viewing window looking in from the outside. Works fairly well. I have run out of the plastic protector sheets... time for more!

The other thing is that the Z car has an open hatch area. You get a lot of road and differential noise amplified by that big Tin Drum in the back. Commonly called a spare Tire well. And the glass hatch reflects any noise forward. I have carpeting and underlay already ( Custom carpets for 280Z ) but I still get an annoying diff whine at certain speeds. Hoping that some DynaMat will reduce the whine somewhat. It seems to be an inherent trait of the R200... but I suspect I may have a pinion bearing getting a bit noisy. Was supposed to tackle the diff this winter.... but it was too danged cold!! I had the same situation on my Third Gen Camaro. Rear hatch glass reflected a lot of diff and road noise. Dynamat in the spare tire well area really cut the noise down.

I added some sealed halogen floodlights in the corners of my blasting cabinet. Also I spaced the glass and mylar sheet up about a 1/2" with a double mesh of metal window screen below it. It helps deflect the media and it stays clear much longer. I would love to have a larger cabinet but the cost escalates quickly with size. another trick is to blast with the shop lights off.

Sometimes the fog is so thick you can't see your nose but you know it's there when somebody takes a crap on it for 5 or 6 years.

If you read up on the p79 head that Eliji has done for Guy you see it's easy and a straight forward head to modify. Shave the head and put pre '79 valves with a descent cam from what I understand. I think if you google "diseazed motor rebuild classiczcars.com" you should find it. With that book it was fun and motivating for me, I couldn't wait to start the next phase. He writes like that, one project at a time. Start buying parts now with any extra money you might have. Advance Auto has 25% off coupon codes on retailmenot.com That saved me a good bit of money! Also have some Nissan part numbers that will help, their parts are magically superior and should be used at every turn when possible. Glad you're doing a doing a build, we'll have some good conversations that end well for a change.

I'm curious who's hard brake lines did you use? Did you buy new or did you replate your old ones? Also, same question for your door seals? Did you go with aftermarket or did you have NOS set aside? If you went with aftermarket, do you need to slam your doors?

Kats it is called Pirelli Rubber Upholstery Webbing 2"..... and yes it is just like the original

Who knows? At this point in time, all I know is, he's got an engine with supposedly good compression, rebuilt carbs from ZTherapy and it's never run worth a damn. It should be easy to eliminate the carbs from the running crappy scenario and move on to the next problem. Hopefully the running crappy will be in the past and the fuel and engine overheating issue can be looked at. I can't believe that Panama heat is the sole problem either. There are Z's running in Arizona and other hot areas that have beat the overheating problem. I must confess, I've have had kind of an uneasy feeling that Jalex would be better off with a stock engine due to the driving conditions in Panama. Used engines are still cheap and only take a few hours to install. That said, I'm not ready to tap out yet. We've got a way to go before a different engine is a possibility. Let's get back to the carbs and floats and cross those off the list.

I did the Dyna Mat and carpet in my 77". I think you're right about hearing the engine and even though I also have 2.5' exhaust with a magna flow the reasons were that I wanted to be more selective in the noises that I hear. More often than not my stereo is not even turned on but I don't care to hear road pebbles bouncing off the undercarriage. Like mentioned above, mine is not a track car either. As far as weight reduction, like granny knot said, it's all about power to weight ratio. Dyna Mat in the interior will only add about 15 lbs. If I were really serious about the ratio, I would lose 20 or 30 lbs off my butt., like that is going to happen....

Because it’s not my race car... This is a classic sports car for fun cruising and road trips WITH MY WIFE. .... so unless I plan on enduring a bone rattling torture chamber by myself for 13 hour drives, my car will be more comfortable than light.

Rebuilt and replated the original 70-71 Tokico 7/8" master cylinder.

Shouldn't throw anything away! Hoarding is an essential characteristic of Datsun ownership!

Finally got around to installing my new end links from Zcardepot. Bought the kit from them. $20 + shipping. As you can see in the pics I had help. My handy dandy quick grip clamp from H.F. Worked perfect. Was able to do the install without adding any weight to the corners like you read in some of the forums. An hour job total time. While I was under there I took a look around and things sure are oily under there. I think most of it is coming from my front main! Oh well, guess I'll do that next.

Kats, We are very privileged to be able to see 'Maruhi' (Secret) factory internal documentation such as this. Thank you! This was the testing that Takei san was involved in, yes? I see the name Takahashi on the report too. Datsun Netherlands was clearly a great influence on all this as Nissan's European base. I had heard in the past that Nissan had a lot of feedback coming from Datsun Netherlands with regard to product refinement and development, and Nissan took it seriously. Lots of sightings in period of mysterious Japanese cars on Japanese temporary-export 'Carnet' plates whizzing around on European roads. Some of them full of electronic measuring instruments and men with clipboards taking notes... For me, the 'Entreposto' Portuguese market 240Zs were the prettiest and nicest-equipped of all the Export market versions.

I happen to have a set of Grant rings waiting to go into my rebuild. Since Chickenman mentioned modern materials, I pulled out the instructions that came from Grant. Step 4 states: "Check piston ring end clearance. Check in cylinder near bottom of ring travel. Ring end clearance should be approximately 0.003" to 0.004" per inch of cylinder diameter." With our 83mm bores in the L24's, this works out to 0.249-0.332mm. Nominally, this is 0.29mm. Blue said the average gap would work out to 0.416mm or about 0.126mm too large on average. Since this is a circumferal measurement, it equates to a diameter that is 0.040mm undersized. Or conversely, it could be said the bore is 0.040mm (0.0015") oversize relative to the rings supplied. I think the operative word in the instructions was "approximately". The critical dimension is the low limit. Too low and the gap closes down to solid as the engine warms. When this happens, the rings dig into the cylinder wall with catastrophic results. Remember the allowable taper on the cylinder is 0.008" compared to the calculated 0.0015" oversize. Since Blue's cylinders had little to no taper, I would not think the excessive gap would be a problem. Of course, this comes from someone who hasn't rebuild an engine in over fifty years. If I'm full of it, please educate me.