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My restored 280Z is for sale now. See: spies@nwflorida.net https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-280/6330462965.html

I know someone that has 28s.

Those would not come into play with the switch off. The OP said he messed with the radio before his problems started. Considering the circuit has constant power, it would be tempting for someone to tap into that circuit for the memory functions of the radio. The fact that the radio was touched recently makes that area a prime suspect. I hope the OP will follow the troubleshooting in post #8 and let us know the results. If more diagnostics are required at that point, it can be performed in a measured approach instead of shotgunning ideas.

yes but with the light on you can monitor the testing with less risk to the existing wiring. the light introduces resistance to the circuit and protects the wiring from constant loads (at least until the fuse blows). The light will be on but the brightness will vary as you turn things on and off and hopefully enough of a change in brightness for finding the short.

Keep in mind that I know a lot about troubleshooting because I've done enough things to cause trouble, whether it was in my cars or in my projects at work.

I"M not interested in finding auctions on eBay. I would like to hear from people who have experience with how well they work, and what kind of bulb is employed.

Found what I was thinking of.. "Datsun also used this generation Z to expand the sporty coupe's repertoire: A 2+2 body style was added, splicing in almost a foot of wheelbase and rear jump seats that only kids and yoga instructors could fit in, as well as a first-ever three-speed automatic transmission. " https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2007/03/Datsun-260Z/1424363.html I've owned one 240, two 260's and 2 280's, all manual Too many out there with autos, must have mis-interpeted the article or it was wrong.

It'll have a smile.

It's a shallow set It'll have a smile. Or if the blower is teethy and has a cough, a frown.

Thanks for all of the replies. I ordered this one because price was right and had the grommet assembled. I think I will try using the old grommet by slicing it.

My 240Z (early 1970 model) uses a 20A for the parking/tail lights. I think I remember that if the 32V rating is on one end of the fuse the amp rating is on the other end and can be hard to read in my experience. So if one end says 32V the other end should say 20A.

I'm slowly (oh so slowly) getting ready for North Georgia's ZCON next year. I have the mechanical side done now for the sparkle. "She's only rock and roll", mine's gonna say "She's gonna drive me to drinking".

The primary problem is the red paint. Sent from my SM-G920V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I know some company makes them then sends them to Embee Coatings in Santa Ana, CA for the ceramic coating. You might call Embee and see if they'll say? http://www.embeeperformance.com/

Just another dealer "value added" improvement. Datsun supplied no embellishments, only purpose built options and performance improvements. There are a couple of threads here about modern suppliers of these strips. You can get a near perfect replacement if your rubber parts have shrunk. These things happen with age you know.

fuel flow check: Just hold the lid to your face and blow air through the fuel entrance in the lid. Open and close the needle valve by moving the float and you should hear the air stop and start when the valve opens and closes. Balancing: Too much vacuum on one carb at idle means it is doing all the work and the other two are not. You need to close the throttle valve stops on all to be the same before you start balancing. Also ensure the idle enrichment screws are all backed out by the same amount at start. Do not turn any enrichment screws until the air is first balanced. Here are the steps to follow: 1. Gently turn all 6 idle enrichment screws in until they stop then back each out 1 full turn (note: some recommend anywhere between 1.5 turns to 2.5turns however the SK Carb manual recommends between 3/4 to 1 full turn so 1 full turn should do) 2. Disconnect push rods from carb arms. 3. Turn back all 3 idle stop screws until each is not touching the idle stop. Then turn each in until it just kisses the stop, then give each an additional 2 turns to open the throttles a crack. 4. Start the engine and let it warm up for 10 min until it is nice and hot. (Don't worry about rpms unless they are too low). 5. Measure the air flow into each carb and adjust the idle stop screws until you get the air balanced AND such that you have lowered the rpms to between 650 and 850rpms. Hopefully this will get you in the ball park before you have to mess with the enrichment screws and linkage.

Congrats on that trophy Jai ! Well deserved ! Your post put a huge grin on my face. You go girl !! PS: That Lissa sure is a cutie.

Great photos Mike, and I think they bring up an interesting question regarding the orientation of the hold-down. Which way is 'UP'? Many, many times I see the hold-down facing DOWN. That is, with the pressed-out shape of the hold-down facing down and IN the spare wheel rather than facing UP and sticking out of the spare wheel. The T-handle can be used either way, but the (correct?) orientation of the octopus dot-grip side of the rubber would seem to suggest that it is intended to grip the spare wheel. If the dot-grip is facing fresh air then what function is it performing? Nissan themselves seem to have been confused by this. I see both orientations in various factory documentation. For example: ...which I think is the correct orientation. The temptation is to fit the pressed-out shape of the hold-down into the centre of the spare wheel, and it seems to make sense, but I think it was not actually designed to work that way. I believe they dropped the rubber cover for the T-handle quite soon into production.

The early Z's used a simple vinyl covering on the A-pillars, but in 77 they switched to a screw retained plastic trim A-pillar cover. Well Datsun must have messed up some dimension somewhere because the plastic trim covers often crack due to the stress of tightening the screws. On my right hand side, I had one of the screws pull through. Cracked the plastic mounting hole clean off. My first attempt to remedy the situation was to simply buy another used pair somewhere off some forum. Unfortunately, the donor pair I bought not only had the same problem, but it was even the same screw, same location. This meant that I couldn't even use one side from my original pair, and the other side from the donor pair. It became clear that this is a common problem and it's not just me. With that in mind, I took matters into my own hands. Here's what I started with. My right side. Completely cracked off mounting hole in the lower position: It's supposed to look like this. Here's the other side where the screw boss is still intact: Figuring I had nothing to lose, I put a piece of tape over the hole on the visible side: Crosshatched the plastic on the hidden side: Taped a short length of small diameter cardboard tube where the mounting boss should be and filled the moat with epoxy: Gave it a day to cure, peeled off the cardboard, and using a dremel and some hand filing, I contoured the new boss to fit the into place on the car and drilled the hole for the screw: Countersink the other side for the screw head: Used a small brush to paint the exposed epoxy: And after the paint dried, the repair is nearly invisible: So I also figured that since I'd already seen two broken bosses, I would take the opportunity to reinforce the remaining ones which had not broken off (yet). I crosshatched the area and blobbed on a generous amount of epoxy to support the posts. And while I was looking at everything, I also noticed a couple small cracks starting to form along the edges, so I made a couple metal splints and epoxied them into place as reinforcement. After all this work, these things should be good for another forty years. Here's one of the splints next to a reinforced mounting boss: Installed back in the car, and I know it's the little things, but I don't have to look over at the right side of the car and see that missing screw in the cracked off mounting boss! Happy Happy!

Back in the day, that's where you hid the dimebag from the fuzz.

I'm thinking about trying this out around here, small town with lazy men. Come in and clean out the garage and add minimal shelving and cabinets to leave room for cars and boats. If anybody has had this done or maybe thought about it and thinks it would be a good idea, make money with little work , chime in and tell me I'm onto something or a dam fool I'd appreciate it. 20 years in general construction so I know the basics it's just whether or not people would pay to keep from doing it themselves. My Mom paid $2,000 to have her closets revamped and she's extremely happy with the results. I'm growing older and worn out!