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"Late to this thread but better late then never.... " Wow. I disagree. I think never would have been better than late. Your first post ever on this forum - "Nyeah Nyeah Nyeah! Pbbbbbbthhhh! My part sold for exactly what wanted, so for all you people who said anything I didn't like about my auction... you are smart a$$ with little minds or have personally problems." It might just be me, but I would rather see someone come to the forum and try to participate in some way other than simply trying to profit from it's members. Add something constructive to the community before you start trying to make money off them. I mean... I get it. I understand you're trying to sell parts for the highest price you can get. Who doesn't?? Just add something constructive to the community instead of coming here to wave your fantastic awesome success in the air and rub members noses in it, and call people names simply because they have opinions you disagree with? Never would have been better than late. @Mike

I replaced the fuel rail with braided lines, placing them closer to the carburetors and away from all of the heat of the engine. So far, I have not been able to replicate the heat soak problem I was having before. Maybe I finally slayed the dragon.

i have done mine the way I want it, but also in a way that it should sell quickly if i need to sell. IMO, do what you like. i do think that leaving the interior black would be your best bet, as it does look pretty nice.

Took it down to Matt's shop about 10 days ago, he got the engine performing like it never did with the old Motronic ECU when it was in the M6, scared the crap out of myself on the way home, fastest car I have ever driven! Gets a little floaty at high speed so I may have to try a splitter and/or a rear spoiler, I should probably try a bit more toe in as well. The car has been up at Jody's all week getting the wet sanding/buffing done, I will be at Zfest rain or shine, see you there.

A little pseudo time lapse... Whew!

Where are you moving to and when? I might be able to pay you a visit soon if needed.

Does the engine rev freely when it's not under a load? Patcon is right. That doesn't look like much fuel for a four minute run. A fuel pressure and volume test will rule out lack of fuel up to the carbs. Any crud in the float bowl is bad. The crud can slosh it's way into the needle and seat, potentially, either partially plugging the fuel orifice Lack of fuel) or stop the needle valve from seating. (too much fuel) depending on the size of the crud. Be sure to remove and clean it. I'm curious if the floats have deteriorated to the point that they don't float at the proper height anymore. On the outside of the float lid, where the fuel line connects, clean the small (last chance) filter (fine screen) located in the banjo fitting. Check the float height, reset the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns and fire it up.

How you manage to make a single sale with that attitude of yours, I will never know. I agree with Captain Obvious - Never would have been better than late. You seem to have the maturity of a 10 year old boy.

So the $550 "No Sale" one on eBay is now offered here for $700? My little mind is beginning to spin. I can't wait until it's listed on Amazon for $2000. Dennis

You don't have to bring your Z to the meetings. I brought my daily driver to the last one since SWMBO accompanied me and wanted the luxury of AC. Send me a PM with your contact info, and I can get you hooked up with my people. I'm going over to Lawrenceville at noon today to get help from a friend to install braided fuel lines in my car.

Check your driver door production tag too. Curious to know your build date.

sounds to me like you need to find somewhere else to sell your stuff. maybe some REAL datsun website

You need some black bumpers for her!

You could also, and should, put a Fram G3 clear filter on the hose from the tank to the supply side of the fuel pump. You'll be able to see the crap if there is any. EFI to carbs was very common in the early '80s from all I've read. The carbs have screen filters right before the float bowls that would be easy to look and see if you have a cruddy tank. I would check those first, dropping and cleaning a tank is a jobby job. Good looking car. We'll get to see it at ZCON 2018 in Duluth, Ga. If we're lucky. 8^)

Thanks for tagging me, @Zed Head. @eloZada, there are a lot of great S30 guys in the ATL. Many of us work on our cars at home, and some guys even have their own shops. A lot of them are members of the Georgia Z Club, too. You can track me down through the GZC facebook page. If you don't happen to be on facebook, you can keep up with the GZC at http://georgiazclub.wordpress.com This is a great time to be a Z owner in Atlanta. We are in the planning stages for the 2018 ZCON here. Get involved. Meet the guys. Have fun with your Z.

I know there's at least one member in Georgia that likes to get out and about and he's a carb guy. @SteveJ Before you drop the tank, just disconnect the line before the fuel filter, get the pump to run if you still have an electrical pump and see what comes out. Use a 2 liter soda bottle so you can see it. You'll know in a few seconds if you have an obstruction in the tank. Or measure at the carbs. See if the float bowls are full. Maybe that's what you meant by "carburetor twitching"? And yes, your car did come with EFI. Check your engine numbers to see if it's still a 2.8 liter or a swap. And 1976 still put the engine serial number on the metal plate by the clutch MC. Compare those.

I have mixed feelings about the whole thing. I've never liked the Photobucket links because they're usually slow to load. And sometimes people let their accounts lapse or go dead and the links disappear anyway. I've always thought it made sense to load them on to the site that you post on. No offense to all y'all Photobucketeers. The internet is kind of like a big old tree. Branches will die and fall off and eventually the whole thing is going to fall over. Paper books will become like gold.

A really big improvement!

Took the stripes off. Looks better now. Before After

I doubt that Matt! But I still reference your build time to time.

Don't overlook those other rotors, used for swaps. The 280Z rear discs, and Toyota truck. Maybe somebody had an "upgrade" planned.

I think one is 240Z and the other 280Z. You need to match the rotor with hub so everything lines up. In other words you can put a 240Z hub/rotor on a 280Z and vice versa. Calipers are the same. Chuck