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Well I got some gas in the tank today and turned the key, I wasn't really expecting the engine to fire up the first time but it would have been nice, she's going to make me work a little more before she gives it up. Something to do with the Megasquirt no doubt, I'll give megasquirt Matt a call and see if he can help me out again. Got the the rear glass in today,all the rubber seals are in now, as well as the leather interior pieces,cleaned and dressed the tires,and installed the Mr.K rear view mirror,

Another legend gone.

Lets all raise a glass for Gregg.

People have to quit dying!

Chris Connell too. He had one of the best voices I've ever heard, Ronnie James Dio said "the best" and Dio's an all time great in my opinion.

a couple more things off my list. i bet i spent the better part of 6 hours sandblasting the grill, lots of little nooks and crannies. i believe this is the only body part on the whole car i didnt have to repair! just sandblast and paint finally got the seat foam and covers done. the foam came from msa, and the covers from interior innovations. i spent maybe 3 hours on the seats. Hardways thread here was a big help. instead of plastic, i used baby powder on the foam. the covers went on easily. i also took the seat hinges apart and powder-coated them and the screws. just waiting on carpet, wheels and door panels now

I agree. As well there is a heck of a lot of adjustment in the linkage. On some cars I repaired with loose linkage, I shortened rods and re-threaded to allow the nylon sockets to screw further in. A few important steps for adjustment that may be missed: 0. As Zup says, clean and lubricate all joints. 1. Do not use the fast idle setting screw as a stop (this screw is only used for tuning). 2. Adjust all rods to take up slack (shorten and cut new threads if needed) 3. Adjust maximum-throw stop and lock nut behind gas pedal 4. Make sure choke wires are not holding jets down at idle. A bit of slack is needed.

My engine bay might be a bit extreme for some on our forum (hopefully not ) but I also used the darker grey components to bring out the shiny plumbing:

Thanx for sharing. Probably the best thing you did............ KEEPING THE CAR & LETTING THE EX GO!. YOU GO GIRL!

Got a large batch of freshly zinced parts in today. The pictures look lousy but the parts look great. Not sure why the 'gold' color does not work well on the camera. Also picked up the powder coated air cleaner and ceramic coated exhaust manifold. They really look great. Loosely placed a couple of parts on the motor just to see how they look. It's almost like Christmas

Thank you 240Ziggy, Mike B, and 26th-z for helping me get it right. Dan

#187 is home safely. We'll sort it out this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I don't know about the Y or D on the side, but for the late 1971 and up it looks like the Lot No is a manufacturing date code of DDMM. Your 0512 would have been made on December 05, 1971. Jerry's 0503 would have been made on March 05, 1972. My 2504 would have been made on April 25, 1972 (it's a May 1972 production car).

How does one............FIND.......3 cars like this. Please give us your secret!

A couple of months ago I found this 10/70 which had been stored away for 10 years. I was able to buy this one and 2 others. A 5/70 and a 1/72. The brown one is one that can be refreshed and put back on the road fairly quickly. Looking forward to driving it soon.

We run the Arizona Z Car flywheel in the 240 race car. It's got a ton of hard miles over the last three years without a hint of problems.

OK, as I suspected, it's an example of custom/privateer fabrication making use of the factory-installed captives in the rear header rail. I guess it proves what they *could* be used for, and may well have been planned by the factory to be used for, but (as far as I'm aware) they didn't. As mentioned - I think - way back, there were at least two different positionings for the two vertical drops in the factory roll over bar/'safety bar'. There was the 'normal' gap width (as seen on the circuit race cars and the Sports/Race Option parts sold to the general public) and the factory Works rally cars, which had a wider gap between the vertical drops, to allow them to carry two spare wheels/tyres. I think the gap between the two sets of captives corresponds to one of the above, but I'd have to go to the garage to check....

Interesting, this seems to be a complaint with many s30 owners. And the " sticky " throttle. Once I had my rebuild carbs back, the issue was no longer there, so I think alot of problems are in the butterfly shafts, because they actually wear in " oval " , the pedal action is not smooth anymore

Hi Alan, Not much info on the part. It appears in a photo of shell HS30-00741 in Australia. The photos were taken a while ago. I saw the application then remembered Kats thread. Here is the Aus info: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13773-early-girl-bingo-with-photos/?p=192129 https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNl5Dbc6AlAPDlauRJ5eaLA8JMaql4Oee-fzrc9jUBQcg8UYa18piZD58gTZ1jLGQ?key=NVJGLU1oTGZvM1Y2VGx5Ymp2dW9UOGFIR3h4OGNR

I salvaged my original fender seals but now I'm thinking of back tracking and using your method. The black under the cowl vents is also a good idea.

Its actually a kidney and part of the liver, but the dash looks great.

EXCELLENT! You make it look so easy!