Leaderboard

I've thought about making the bolt that mounts the fuel bowl into an eccentric/offset bolt with a 0.5 cm offset... Someday I'll have time to make one...., two I guess.

Figuring out the fuel level in the float chamber is easy. What we really need is for somebody to come up with a mechanism that allows the float level to be adjusted needing to remove the float chamber lid.

Success!!!! All's well that ends well. I didn't put em upside down and didn't forget the bump stops. Also, I installed new inner and outer control arm bushings, new stainless brake lines and new brake hoses. Ready to go back together....every project is an exciting venture.....ain't we lucky!

The photo above gives me an idea, I think we have to start measuring tools by how many "beers long" they are or their weight in "beers".... sort of like horses and hands.

Great to meet you finally and to help with the project! Note that appropriate entrance requirement was met. Wait a minute, I think you called me an antique!!!

Gotcha. You saw this also. I think this what the link referenced I believe. I don't think it's anymore than you already know. http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/engines.html Aside from the year, what are you trying to determine? You trying to know if if came from a Z, truck or sedan? You might call Nissan directly and see if they can tell.

desiccant bags need to be redried from time to time using an oven, so i don't think putting it in there would be any more beneficial than opening it up to clean out moisture from time to time. Also, if there is a moisture leak, then it would be dehumidifying everything, not just the TPS since it's not sealed. Use a silicon spray instead. You can drill out the two small rivets on the back, and use M5 screws to hold the cover on again after you've opened it (for anyone reading that hasn't opened theirs yet). I've done this to all my Z31 TPS's. You can even use silicon gel/grease if that's all you have. The silicon spray will coat everything that doesn't need to short, and the finger-follower will just wipe silicon off of where they ride and make contact.

Very cool rally shot!

There have been a number of changes in the way PA has handled their state inspections over the years, and I'm no historical expert on what changed when, but with a combination of fading brain cells and digging around on-line, I can provide some insight. - Back in 69/70 (at the time of the stickers in question) state inspections were required twice per year and expired on one of four quarterly "cycles". The cycle number is the big number on the sticker and was easily discernible by cops from a distance. - As far back as I can remember, you were allowed to get your vehicle inspected during a three month window ending on the day your sticker expired. So for example, if your sticker expired at the end of January, you could take your car in for inspection in Nov, Dec, or Jan. So decoding what I can from the sticker that SteveJ posted as an example... Prior to the inspection sticker shown here, this vehicle would have carried a cycle 2 sticker expiring at the end of Jan 69. The punched out date at the bottom of the sticker shows this vehicle was inspected on Nov 17, (1969), which is during the three month window leading up to the end of cycle 2. A car due at the end of cycle 2 could taken in for inspection during Nov, Dec, or Jan. The current inspection expires on June 31, 1970 which is the end of cycle 4. I believe the inspection station number to which the sticker was issued is the ID dot coded at the top of the sticker. If that's the case, then this sticker was originally issued to station A122 (whoever that is). As for the reference to the PA Department of Revenue, that's who got the fee for the cost of inspection. Even today, when you're sending the check to pay for your yearly license plate registration, you make the check out to the PA Dept of Revenue. In the case of inspections, the station buys the stickers from the state and then the station sells them to the customer. it's just where the money collects at the state level. Some other neat details and pics available here: http://www.bufs-plates.com/windshield/pennsylvania/pa-ws-1969-1983.html Did I ever tell you that I've got my PA state inspection mechanics license? Never officially inspected a vehicle, but I took the certification tests and have carried the license for quite some time. The mechanic owns the license, but the station owns the stickers. A certified mechanic working for an authorized station is who performs the inspection, and that's not me.

Site, That won't work. You need to change the height of the float with respect to the height of the nozzle. Any changes you make with the routing of the tubing will have no effect. Think "water level" when building a deck. The tube position/routing doesn't matter.

Chris, I agree the 240Z is less reinforced in places, but I don't know if a 240Z or a 260Z would have been much worse. The reinforced door deflected some of the impact, but lets face it the improvements made to the 280Z are marginal compared to cars these days. And it was an S10, a bit like getting hit by a concrete block travelling at 60mph. You have luck on your side surviving such an impact in an S30. Ive weighed up the risks and try to reduce them by avoiding places were accidents occur often and drive outside peak hour when it is not so buzy. The rest is just luck I guess.

I think Jim's Five and Dime might be a better name.....

That tool requires you to wear steel toe boots.

Your only other alternative for springs only are the Vogtland or wait for MSA to finally get more of 'their' brand in. Their are literally NO other choices. I refuse to run coilers as I do not want to go that far from stock mounting points. And I will NOT cut my car for camber plates. So I will just wait or order set of Vogtland and write up a review of them.

That is one BFW!

Just spent the morning touring the Calgary Datsun Museum of Antiquities.... also known as [mention=11371]zkars[/mention] shop and warehouse! Picked up a trunkload of goodies for my project. So much gold hiding in these garages! Thank the Lord above for people like Jim!

Great read. I was THERE. I was home on mid-tour leave from Korea. Came down from Ohio with my Brother who was a D Prod TR4A racer not qualified (wrecked at MO). :-( Wife and I saw the beautiful BRE Z cars, came home in May 71, put $100 down at the Bel Air MD dealer. Top of the list in Oct..no cars...Dock strike...Dec they shipped cars from Vancouver BC. Got the pick of five Z's. Unheard of as then you got whatever came in next to the dealer. The blue and white Z has 89,000 miles and took 2nd at ZCON in Toronto last summer . Lots of Autocross trophies in Baltimore/Washington Council of Sports Car Clubs. Joe Ruffing and I did three evens in three states one Sunday. He had a 2000 that he ran the stuff out of. Fast. Miss him.

The big hose is for between the tank and the fuel pump. There is none in the engine bay, for fuel flow. " One way to proactively prevent this problem is by placing a fuel filter between the fuel tank and fuel pump. A Fram G3 disposable filter is the perfect choice: It has 3/8" fittings (the G3 is really G3/8"). This works well with the 10mm Nissan fuel hose. "

I think you can raise funds for the beer by "extracting" all the classic cars from Cuba and selling at Barrett-Jackson. Operation "Barricuba"

Just a little bondo she will be fine

Haha!! I'm honored! And appointments to my cabinet would certainly be whatever you desired. You guys are doing a great job with the suggested appointments as you have absolutely no experience or legitimate reason to exist in the posts you are looking to fill. That's perfect! All, however, with the exception of Cliff... He's well suited for the not so secret service guarding the football and growler. Someone's got to be the behind the scenes brains of the operation. I think that'll be him because it sure won't be me!