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I was forced to drive my Z around today by this miscreant (@Captain Obvious). He demanded that I take him to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame/Dawsonville City Hall. (Fortunately it's the same building.) We look homeless in this photo, don't we?

My white 70 was rescued after being given up for dead in the Arizona desert!

He really liked that place...

As I mentioned. You do it at your Bank and Buyer does it at his Bank ( Or Credit Union ) . Everything is done electronically between the Banks. Only the Banks see your account details and the buyers account details. Once money is in your bank via Banking Electronic transfer the deal is done. Buyer cannot back out ( Unlike PayPal..in which buyer can cancel Automotive and Housing deals ). You then can have your Bank send a FAX of the registration, to the buyers Bank. BTW, a Fax is a legal document. An E-Mail is not. The Banks handle all the documentation for you. The seller has the easy part. The buyer is the one who takes the risk and has to check out the car with due diligence. You usually have a simple Bill of Sale Faxed between Banks with particulars of sale, VIN Numbers of cars. and pictures of VIN Number and mileage on car will also have to be sent to your Bank. Your Bank will give the particular details they want. Best to talk to them before hand. I have a personal friend ( John Carlson ) from High School. He is President and CEO of the National Association of Automobile Clubs of Canada Corporation and was inducted into the Hall of Fame the Vintage Car Club of Canada in 1986 This is the way he advised me to handle my cross country purchase of my 280Z, and how the Big $$$ Vintage owners do it. If you ever watch Chasing Classic Cars, vehicles costing hundreds of thousand of dollars ( or Millions ) are transferred regularly by Electronic Transfer between banking institutions. I trust what he tells me: http://naacc.ca/john-carlson.html The only better way IMHO, is if the buyer fly's down and hands you cash money...

Hi my friends, A catch up on Redbird and her new clutch. What a difference in her performance, oh the ZOOM she has now! I had no idea her driving was so not right. Since the clutch she tries to jump out from underneath me. Ha! The trick with the alcohol in the gas seems to have cleared out those bugger gremlins that were making her stall out. Nothing but good smooth running now. Should have figured that out immediately. Hopefully my avoiding that gas station will cause that to not happen again. When I picked her up, I managed to leave the shop without stalling her out. That was good, I did not want to look bad in front of Pete. Lost it tho at the first stoplight. The remainder of the trip home went well. Today as I drove to church, I didn't even think of it and muscle memory took over the job for a beautiful drive. At church, I was telling a friend about how this group jumped in and gifted me with $ for the clutch, and that the total was only $30 under the cost of the labor. At that point, he got out his wallet and handed me $30, and said "now your labor charges are all paid for." How amazing that was, I had no idea he would do that, what a sweet man. So... the total of the installation of the clutch was $335, and with what you all sent plus Jim's gift at church, I have received the full amount I owed Pete. I have been sending the $ to him via PayPal. Easier than driving over there, costs less gas too. Now all I have to do is to finish out the month, with the $99 I spent for the parts, missing from the purse. It is difficult to manage, but we (Deanna, RedBird, and myself) will make it. Cuts out the goodies for the month. Not gonna worry about that tho. I have a wonderful ZOOM, in fine shape to drive! Hahaha... I typed a "Z" back in that last sentence, and the auto correct changed it to ZOOM. I like that better, so will leave it. Have a great afternoon all, blessings for each of you. You are the BEST, Jai

Those purple and gray velour seats are very, very rare Jim........don't believe I've ever seen em that nice before! Windshields (Nissan) are getting hard to find....

An AC car. I would keep that even though you may not need it! If you go to sell it, it may help have a broader audience...As for the transmission. If it's a bolt on mod and easily reversed I wouldn't worry about it. Keep all the original parts....

I have had salvage yard refuse to sell the whole car. So I told them to cut it in half. I'll buy both pieces. Sometimes that works...

Put in some work on my rally clock. Excited to soon be able to install it.

Man I sure could use those headlight scoops!

The section headings in Wick Humble's book provide a pretty good guide for reassembly steps.

Bart is right. There is a lot of stuff that will be hard to find in the future. Things that don't seem important now could very we be worth their weight in gold, so to speak, in the future. Things like the steering rod uni's, rear brake drums, steering rack, even the bolts holding the fender along the bonnet edge are special for that area (thin heads) and often lost in careless restorations, like my PO did. It would be a bare carcass if I could get my grubby little hands on it, but then again Im a self confessed hoerder Over here that car would be considered a restorable project. It's a totally different market over here. It would never end up in a wrecking yard in such a "complete" state.

I hope I don't offend anyone. But I would pay much more for an unmodified car than a custom one. Flairs, blacked chrome, L28, seats, etc. really drops the appeal to me. I am sure many others would like the car because of the appearance, upgraded interior, etc. Also, many sell L28 as an "Upgrade" to the original 2.4. But to me, nothing beats numbers matching and as close to factory as possible. Long term, I suspect those cars will be the ones that demand top dollar.

You need to go back. You forgot to get the the center valance panel. Seriously, it is getting hard to find good examples and that one, although not in clear view in the photo, looks in reasonably good nik. The horns look good. Grab the brake proportioning vavle and brake switch unit. They and both NLA and those maybe salvagable.

Larrys, The Cable Guys.

Thanks, JSM! Good advice. And Thanks, FunkytownZ. It's especially good hearing feedback from someone who has recently been in the market for something like my Z. I do feel I can wait at least a little while to find the right buyer, so I don't have to sacrifice the car at a low price. There's barely room in our garage to squeeze both the Miata and the Z, but it's super tight!

New problem pops up on me today. I was out in traffic an noticed the brakes starting to lock up, almost no travel, I barely get it off the road in time as it was clearly getting worse. Stuck in a parking lot with no tools, and forgot my phone. I after some head scratching (my head on the break pedal laying on the floorboard looking up at it) I noticed the lock nut on the pedal stop did not look right. Must have been when I installed a new MC and was messing with the pedal height. Anyway what was happening was every time I depressed the pedal, the stop screw must have backed out just a bit, reducing the free travel. It prob was over a long period of time and I just did not notice the diminishing travel. Finally it got to the point where there was no travel and when I applied the brake and it backed out a tiny bit more, the brake never fully released. Since the lock nut was so loose I just spun the adj bolt back in to regain the free travel and all was well, at least until I got a chance to tighten up the lock nut (thanks Jeff).

Received my Mikuni RamAir filters from the UK. With my old filters, I could not run the air horns with them.

Gav, I don't believe that others installing this system are considering brake bias (balance), but I had a set on my race car years ago and did have an inline system to balance the system. I still have those and will see if I need them in this application. These calipers are rare, reproductions are now available. I did not want reproduction calipers and was lucky in finding a set of NOS along with NOS rebuild kits for the future. The nice thing about the fact that these are being reproduced is that reproduction rebuild parts are now available and like the microprocessors for rally clocks this has driven up the value of the original rare calipers.