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Here is the sketch with the alterations we made and a couple of files showing the difference between 225mm and 240mm. I have it in Acad at work somewhere and it drop about 2.8kg which comes out just over 6lbs. The Fidanza Aluminium flywheel is 4.85kg (10.7lbs) Fidanza P/N: 143281 and fits all 240Z, 260Z 280Z & 280ZX. Thats like over 50% reduction in weight. I think for street use its a bit of overkill. I have read about people having problems with the Fidanza flywheel midlle bolt not lining up on the 3 bolt sections, but never seen one to comfirm it. I have seen one car with a Fidanza flywheel (it was a 280ZX) and it wasn't real easy to drive from a standing start. I can remember when we turned it off and the engine just stopped dead like it had a hydraulic lock or something. It didn't idle all that smooth either.

I just ordered a set including the hose from RockAuto. That was 5 years ago and never had any problems with them. I strongly recommend dismantling both and cleaning them before using, even if new. Mine still had machining grit inside which would have damaged the rubbers and reduced the service life. My clutch is a new standard 280Z 2+2 clutch with a lightened flywheel. It works great and designed for the heavier 2+2and Turbo 280ZX. I like it because it has the light feel and still really good grip behind an L28 in a standard 280Z. You will need the 9 bolt 240mm flywheel. The 225mm has 6 bolts. A lot of aftermarket flywheels are setup for both. I had the flywheel lightened myself from a drawing which I can post if you want. I think the drawing was posted by @Blue and I downloaded it. The machine shop changed a couple of radius' because they would make it (what we thought would be) too thin in places. The main reason for me lightening the flywheel was to compensate for the heavier pressure plate. Its about 2,5lbs heavier and the disc is also a fraction heavier. The lightened flywheel makes it snappy of the line and help it accelerate better. My wife had a little trouble with stalling it the first time she drove it, but only in the begin. Setup: Flywheel: 240mm out of 280ZX 2+2 lightened to about 15lbs if I recall correctly. (Can check when I get back home) Pressure plate: Standard unit via the Nissan dealer here in NL. Clutch disc: Standard unit from Nissan. Throw out bearing collar: My original 280Z collar. New (Rock Auto) I think Beck/Arnley brand Master cylinder New (Rock Auto) Slave cylinder and haydraulic hose. Self adjusting type, (no adjustable push rod). Ofcourse you can source others brands that are just as good. My experience up to now is positive.

Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too much power like he had said (taken with a grain of salt). What are the chances that this is the case, and if so, what clutch should I get that would safely grab any power I might be putting down? Additionally, I notice most of the slave/master cylinders are all original on the car. Car has 88k original miles on it, what brand cylinders should I get? Any input would be appreciated as this this my first 240z. Cheers.

In all fairness as you said yourself they are in the middle of a frenzy of orders. This is Black Friday at Walmart. My advise would be once you get an order placed, leave it alone unless you want to go to the back of the order pile where someone else might get the last one before you. Trying to save even more on your orders with a custom updated shipping quote cost you and that is a bummer but it happens. From my time in customer service, raising incredible hell often gets the 'we are done' response; even if not verbal the effort is gone at that point. The nice guys would get me to work through my lunch to solve their problem. And sometimes there just isn't anything that can be done. They can't make more of the parts. Besides, as you said with the feeding frenzy of orders, when they hang up with you they've got a pile of calls and emails and orders to process for customers that aren't yelling at them. If I had to guess I'd say they didn't anticipate how big the response would be to this sale. Many of these prices are Saturday morning yard sale level so to expect any additional consideration when something falls through do to counts being off or orders getting moved back in the line seem a bit much.

Here's a couple of old, somewhat rambling, threads about fitting the clutch parts together. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53029-could-it-be-a-slipping-clutch/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47034-please-help-id-my-transmission-year-clutch-replacement-gone-sideways/

Hi Cliff, It might be because the 240Z has a different pressureplate height than the later 280Z and 280ZX. A lot of people just simply buy the 280ZX with the collar and be done with it. I think that will be eventually the only option available, due the demand reasons. There is just a lot more 280Z and 280ZX's out there. Your 240Z might already have had a replacement 280Z pressure plate when you changed it. If its still original, then you only need the collar from a 280Z or ZX and it will work perfectly. The sketch and photo might help clear it up a bit. Im not ure if the sketch is 100% correct. I only know the 280Z, 280ZX non-turbo and the 2+2 & Turbo is correct because I have both in the garage somewhere. Btw, The photo is not mine, I think I found it here. Someone here might be the owner, so thanks

Someone on this thread may have an extra one after they install new ones..

So I pulled a electric assist steering motor from the wreckers yesterday, this one is out of a Chev Equinox but lets just call it the Saturn Vue motor, $50 so no complaints there, looks like a very well made unit, nothing cheesy about it. It weighs 14lbs and with a u joint and some additional bracing to hold it in place probably 16lbs, so far so good but there is a reason Zpowersteering didn't use this unit, it is bulky. The only configuration I could find to accommodate it and keep it out of the way involves cutting into the pedal/steering support box. It won't be difficult to fab up a brace to reinforce the pedal box and support the new steering assist unit but it sure isn't plug n play. With some scouring of ebayUK I'm sure I could have come up with the motor from the GM Opel that ZPS is using but ebay Bruno's inexpensive control box won't control the Opel unit...so. I think I can make this one work well but I may end up having some interference with the corner of the heater/blower unit. I'll have to pull it down and put it in place before I rig up the new bracing. Here is a close up of the mod to the pedal/steering support box. The support box is still quite strong even with this big chunk cut out of it but it will be reinforced regardless.

That's not the slave cylinder Cooper......it's on the side of the tranny (underneath). You need to get a Factory Service Manual (quickly)

Hi Eric, Nice looking car. What are you asking for it? Marty

Prices are definitely going up. I just sold my early 260z for $22500 Canadian. I am already missing it

I came across a classic car dealer here, and saw a 240Z I thought I saw earlier on Ebay a year ago with a story of an eldery couple ? http://www.classiccarsvandewouw.nl/index.php/nl/verkoop Previous ebay picture:

Sounds like success! You are the man! I used to be able to do SMT without magnification, but not anymore <sigh>. When doing the small stuff now, I'm doing the same thing you are with a loupe, and it's a real pain. I should invest in one of those bench mounted magnifying loop lamps too.

Good job. Sounds like just a cold solder joint. Sometimes transistors test good but are bad. You ever use freeze spray or heat to test? The lighting is really bad in the video. From what i can tell, that radio looks like the ones they had in the 82-83 sentra's and it looks like a very close match to the kms2411 78z radio's i have. I just robbed my km-1821ze for a RF transistor to go in a 240z radio. Love the interchangeablity of hitachi stuff so don't toss it if stops working completely. You might be able to put a 77-78z faceplate on it and attach a 78 antenna switch on the side with sheetmetal screws. I think i saw a 5 pin din on your radio too. I bought a cable on ebay that allows me to use a 3.5mm jack for an iphone or mp3 player.

part 2 radio working

part one video, checking out the dead radio

Well its working, two issues 1st was the power supply to the radio tuner, this fixed the AM the FM sounded like a dead RF FET but messing about with it I was able to push on the tuner board (buried deep in radio enclosed mostly with a shield integrated with the tuning slugs. I look a bit closer and thought I could see a crystalized solder joint on one of the coils. got my solder iron and reflowed that, put it together messed with it some more and think I got it. I will ruff handle it some to see if that issue pops up again. HR its a Datsun hitachi KMS2501B I got off ebay. Guy said it was not a z but think a truck or 710 or something like that. My existing radio is a audio vox or some after market branded AM/FM stereo 8 track. I really wanted the old style push buttons and not some current junk that fakes the push buttons. has a single JFET as an RF amp in the FM tuner. rest are conventional bipolar transistors AND some IC's in the MPX and power amps. The hitachi service manual says oct 1976. I got a video on the works its pretty ruff since I do my hobby work at nite (still have a day job). Prob is I was so frustrated with having my car all apart that I spent today (daytime) putting the old radio back in. I do have the speakers installed and all the trim panels back up. I like the way it sounds a lot better than the goofy 3 speaker pod mounted (2 4.5" for left in the back and 1 5.25" mounted on the tunnel on the passenger side up front for right). I spent a lot of time routing the added speaker along the same path as the body/console harness (inside some of that wire loom plastic to protect the speaker wires and provide a channel if I ever wanted to run any other wires back there) taped the new speaker wire along the console harness with some electrical tap so it looks pretty much factory. I used some bullet connector so I can alter harness easy, fabricated a wire harness to take the stock Datsun (power/lights/single speaker) 6 pin connector to the 3 pin speaker/6 pin radio harness used by the 2501B. I will prob just wait to put the KMS radio in when I do the trans swap (and have the center console out again. One thing is for certain, those radios on Ebay selling for $$$ better have new zeners if used like this one in the power supply. I have read up on them and found its not uncommon for them to fail shorted (protects against overvolt that way) and they can fail from age not use. Working on car radios is a real bugger, but I can see how if you did one brand (like the common Z radio) you could get good at it as far as how to take apart and what to look for. One thing for sure, its not a shot gun recap deal like I see done so often in other vintage electronics. Better to diagnose the issue and fix the ONE part that need fixing, limit the abuse to the pcb's and interconnecting wires from overhandling.

some video of the progress so far

ZH: Do you have the Factory anti-rattle clips installed on your pads? Often missing but thye make a big difference in preventing squeal. Part # 41083-E4100