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About CooperZ479

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1972 240z L24, 4 speed, r200 differential. Built engine with SU carbs
    2003 350z Grand touring, JWT lightweight clutch/flywheel, 5/16 spacer.

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  1. Thanks for all the input, y'all's information is invaluable. I've been away on vacation for a couple days with the family, just got back into town. I plan on getting under the car tomorrow after work and adjusting the clutch. I don't have the tools to drop the transmission, though, I know of a shop that does great work on classics. Only bad part is that the shop will have to keep the car for a while once it is taken apart. Assuming all goes well I won't need to drop a huge amount of money into it. Unfortunately it is making some nasty noises under deceleration and when I go to shift gears when
  2. Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it. I will see what I can find out after thoroughly looking through the FSM I just got on PDF. If you had to recommend new slaves/masters, and clutch kit, which would you go with? I have heard good and bad things about centerforce. Should I go ahead and get a new flywheel or see if it can be resurfaced? Also, which collar would fit the kit you recommend?
  3. I don't think that mine is adjustable. I only see the lock nut, no adjusting nut on the rod. Guess it is time to get the clutch replaced?
  4. I have had numerous people recommend the clutch kit from Exedy. I was wondering if this kit (# 06029) will definitely fit my 1972 240z l24 w/ 4-speed transmission, r200 swap, MSA cam/springs, 6-1 header, and 2.5 exhaust. Also, should I replace anything else while I am down there (ARP bolts all around, collar...etc)? Any help would be appreciated. My clutch seems to be slipping once I hit my max torque range. My clutch feels very light, I have not adjusted my clutch yet, though, I have a sneaking suspicion it is the clutch altogether. The only reason I am hesitant is that I am not sure since th
  5. Which collar should I have theoretically? Type A or B 4 speed? I haven't been able to find the right threads on this forum yet.
  6. I know it is a bit of information to ask for, though, if I was going to buy everything for a clutch/flywheel swap, what exactly would I need given the symptoms I am coming across? Any specific brands I should shy away from and/or gravitate towards? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks gents.
  7. How will I know if it is adjustable? Just by loosening (extending) it? Like I said, I have owned the car for less than a day and am still trying to figure my way around the car locating everything. Located just about everything I need, though, as much info as possible is appreciated just so I don't do something wrong and make things harder for myself. Better to ask for help before hand rather than after..
  8. What brand cylinders are y'all running? I am probably going to swap them out along with the clutch and flywheel just to have ease of mind.
  9. Also, the gears grind when putting it into reverse, not sure if that has any bearing on the situation.
  10. Gentlemen, thanks for the input. I will try and get up under the hood shortly. Will update when I know more.
  11. Clutch pedal is also considerably soft compared to other M/T I have driven. Any chance the clutch/fork is out of spec?
  12. Meant so say adjustable exhaust flange, not dump valve, multiple builds are now running into each other in my head this late at night.
  13. Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too muc
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