wide ratio FS5W71B slipping out of 3rd & 4th

[Zed Head]

I wonder if somebody could build a U-shaped device that you could slip over a nut on the threaded end of the shaft.  Then you could turn the nut against the inside of the U-shape to push the lock bolt out.

Heat on the piece at the end would also cause expansion that might be enough to loosen the fit on the shaft.

[Yarb]

Out of the two I resealed one popped right out the other I used the block wedge to support the shaft leaving the nut on. I gave it a douse of Kano Kroil oil and let it sit for an hour and it then popped t with a bar through the slot and it broke broke loose.

[Captain Obvious]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I wonder if somebody could build a U-shaped device that you could slip over a nut on the threaded end of the shaft.  Then you could turn the nut against the inside of the U-shape to push the lock bolt out.

I think someone did something like that... @zKars  maybe?

[zKars]

Yes, without a reverse lock out port to poke a 1/4 socket extension and air hammer into, that thing is a witch to remove. I built a crazy complex U shaped thing to push them out, worked ”ok” but tough to get all the angles right. Dang wedge pins can be very tight. Drilling an access hole then NPT plugging it after would be my goto solution, but not everyone is comfortable doing that.

[Jeff Berk]

13 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I wonder if somebody could build a U-shaped device that you could slip over a nut on the threaded end of the shaft.  Then you could turn the nut against the inside of the U-shape to push the lock bolt out.

I was thinking the same thing. When I regain access to the maker space I'm going to see if I can make one. I like a challenge, owning a vintage Z, that should be obvious. 

[Jeff Berk]

zKars...

I drilled a hole in one of my donner transmissions and was able to get the pin out of that one with a few hammer blows against a drift pin. I did that to get a better look at what I'm up against. I picked up an electrical conduit hanger at Lowes and I'm trying to come up with a tool to push out the pin by reshaping the hanger. Not much luck yet. As I said earlier, it's a very tight space.

Edited March 31, 2021 by Jeff Berk
spelling

[heyitsrama]

Does your gearbox not have a reverse check sleeve? I did this last night, you can extend the striker rod which allows you to support it with some wood jenga blocks, then use a not-a-punch and a sledge hammer to beat on the dowel with a sacrificial nut on the end of it.

 

Edited March 31, 2021 by heyitsrama

[Captain Obvious]

6 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I spy something... Old Honda maybe?   

[heyitsrama]

41 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I spy something... Old Honda maybe?   

Got to get those gauges installed, maybe can get some time to tune this weekend... I'm waiting on parts in my gearbox thread anyway. 😆

[Jeff Berk]

It's me again. I solved the issue with the wedge pin stuck in the striker, I took zKars' suggestion and drilled a hole in the side of the transmission so I could tap it out. I then taped the hole for 1/2-inch 13 threads and bought a short bolt. I figure with thread sealer and an O-ring, I should be able to seal it well enough.

Dropping the transmission into the case has been a problem. I think I have it all together properly (see photos on google drive). I installed the shifter, bell housing, and tried dropping the tail in place. I tried different shifter positions, twisting the tail a little to the left when installing and when it all falls into place, the shifter seems to be stuck. I'm assuming the striker is not going where it's supposed to go.

The transmission case and shifter are out of a wide ratio while the shift forks and and rods are out of a close ratio. Most of the hardware in front of the adaptor plate are from a 4-speed. Should I try the tail end from the close ratio?

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1x7dBQ_c1fBdDtWOt89JVneSfF5rc69jQ?usp=sharing

Edited April 3, 2021 by Jeff Berk

[Zed Head]

You need to put it in one gear before putting the front case on to the adapter plate.  Otherwise the case will push both shift rods as the rods slide through the holes and it ends up in two gears at the same time.  Common problem.  Pick a gear that already has one of the rods pushed backward in the adapter plate, then the detents won't allow the other to move.

[Jeff Berk]

Just so I understand, I need to put the transmission in gear (example 1st gear) by pushing the fork rod, 

then drop the adapter plate into the front case/bell housing while making sure the fork rods haven't moved,

then put the transmission tail on with the shifter set to 1st gear?

Edited April 3, 2021 by Jeff Berk