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How high does your Z sit with various suspension combos


deadflo

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Non-stock set-up:

coil-overs

250f/275r spring rates

camber plates

2.7 degrees negative-front/2.0 rear

24 1/4 - left front (225X45X16)

24 3/8 - right front (" ")

rear wells have been rolled out so hard to tell but 24 3/4- left and 25 (245X45X16) - right

all equal with me in car and 1/2 tank of gas

At rocker (front at half-moon to bottom of rocker (not lip): 5 3/4 and rears before front of wheel well 6.0, all +/- 1/8 right to left)

At 6.5 qt oil pan: less than 5 inches

Not a daily driver but driven (hard) 5,000 miles or more a year (a New England year that is....)

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  • 1 year later...
Hi Guys:

According to the Factory Spec.'s - you should have 6.34 inches between the ground, and the front frame rail - measured at the seam where the floorboard section meets the firewall section.

Running 195HR70x14's that are pretty close to the original wheels/tires in diameter...

If you measure from the bottom of the rocker-panel, where the half circle is cut out to indicate the front jacking point - you should have 8.5 inches. At the back of the rocker-panel, measured where the dog-leg meets the rocker - you should have 8.5 inches.

If you do have the measurements above - and you measure the front wheel arch - the part of the innermost semicircle closest to the top of the tire - you should have 26 5/8's inches. On the rear wheel arch - you should have 26 1/2...

As you can see - the 240-Z's had plenty of ground clearance to begin with...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Carl Beck

Clearwater, FL USA

http://ZHome.com

I just had my set of reproduction U.S. spec springs installed with a set of Mulholland struts. I couldn't be happier with the results as I am looking for

totally stock appearance with a decent ride.

In reference to Carl's figures, above, my front and rear rocker measurements are 8 inches and 8 1/2 inches respectively. The front wheel arches are

6 1/2 inches and the rear wheel arches are 6 7/8 inches. The wheels are stock steel 14 inch wheels with 185/70 14 tires.

As Arne has described in another thread, the ride is firm but not harsh. As my car is not a daily driver the firm ride is not an issue and I kind of like the road feedback it gives.

I was kind of concerned, as others with the KYB gas struts were getting higher road clearance figures, but with those Mulholland hydraulic struts, Carl, your quality control efforts with these reproductions appears to have resulted in perfect springs.

My thanks to all who were involved with accomplishing this project.

Dan

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Here's where I finally ended up after more spring/strut changes than I care to count.

Late '71 240Z, KYB GR-2 struts, Courtesy Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs, 195/70-14 tires.

Springs cut down to allow for US strut tubes and gas inserts, 2 coils front, 1.75 coils rear.

Both strut inserts and springs are now settled and broken in (2,500 miles or so).

Measured as Carl suggests at the jack points at the base of the rocker panel:

Front 7.5"

Rear 7.75"

Wheel opening height:

Front 26"

Rear 25.75"

Ride is good. Feels like a sports car, but won't beat you up on a long day in the seat.

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Eibach Progressive rate Lowering Springs

KYB struts

on Riken Raptor 225/50-ZR-16's

25" rear

25.5 front

LOVE the ride, hard in the corners, decent to nice on the freeway, manholes and potholes in the road suck! but the suspension has enough give that it's not bone jarring. Other than that. I've never experience a better set-up than my present one (I've driven 15 different 240Z's)

Dave.

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With the EURO stage 1 springs and KYB g2 struts . I ended up cutting 2 1/2 coils from the front and 1 3/4 off the rears. My Z has 195/70-14s at present and sets at 25 1/2 at the front fender arch and 25 on the rear. Being that these springs are not progressive the stiffness is not effected by removing coils. I vary much like the stance and ride of my car. She corners flat and is only limited by my present tires. I did add a OEM rear anti sway bar on my '73 and I think this helps also. At this setting I rarely scrape on speed bumps or driveways. I do come vary close. The ride is firm but not harsh and I seldom bottom out on the bump stops. My new 205/60 14 should lower me about another 1/2''. I have been driving on this set up for a couple of years now so the struts should be settled in. Gary

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Here's one for the coil over track height. Interesting how profiles appear from car, to application.

coil-overs

325f/275r spring rates (Eibach 10" / 12")

camber plates

2.8 degrees negative-front / 2.5 rear

23 1/2" - front (225x50x15)

23 3/4" - rear (225x50x15)

4 3/4" - front jack point

5 1/2" - rear jack point

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Ok so besides coil overs it seem the eibachs lower the car the most is that correct?[/quote

Yea, well maybe.... Eibach and other spring manufactures all have lots of variations in the spring length, diameter and strength. It just so happens that I've choosen 10" & 12" springs for what I am doing. Most cars lowered using the coil over system cut a 2" section out of the strut tube and weld back together, then a 12" to 14" spring is often used to lower the car with out sacrificing suspension travel and geometry.

The nice thing about coil overs is that you can adjust the height of the spring "perch" in a coil over setup by turning the perch mount up or down. Depending on the length of your strut tube, you can install 10 to 14 inch Eibach (or other name brand) springs, then adjust the lower perch the spring rests on changing the height of the car for your application and look. This gives you some flexibility.

Then as Arne mentions the gas pressure in the strut may assist the spring and add a touch more lift the the overall height. If a gas strut added a little undesired ride height, with the coil over system you can turn the lower perch down a notch or two inorder to get the perfect height you desire.

Not sure I explained it clearly, but hope you get the idea.

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Okay, I just went out and took measurements in my garage. I did not measure tire pressure, but I think it's close to correct maybe slightly low. My suspension consists of poly bushings except inner front control arm and outer rear A arm, full-set OEM-spec springs through Courtesy, four KYB GR-2 struts, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, Yokohama Avid H4S 205/60-15 tires mounted on Konig Rewinds 15x6 wheels and rear inner adj-camber bushings. Okay, measurements are as follows: [Carl's number]

Front wheel arch - 26-9/16" [26-5/8"]

Front rocker panel at jack point (flat section) - 8" [8-1/2"]

Rear rocker panel at dog leg intersection/rocker (flat section) - 8-1/4" [8-1/2"]

Rear wheel arch (inner part of lip) - 26-3/8" [26-1/2"]

Front frame rail at floorboard/firewall seam - 6" [6-3/4"]

So then, my car sits basically at stock height, but maybe about 1/2" low. Tire pressure and diameter may be the differentiating factors, which would add about 1/2" to all measurements.

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Okay, I just went out and took measurements in my garage. My suspension consists of poly bushings except inner front control arm and outer rear A arm, full-set OEM-spec springs through Courtesy, four KYB GR-2 struts, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, Yokohama Avid H4S 205/60-15 tires mounted on Konig Rewinds 15x6 wheels and rear inner adj-camber bushings. Okay, measurements are as follows: [Carl's number]

Tire pressure - 30 psig

Front wheel arch - 26-11/16" [26-5/8"]

Front rocker panel at jack point (flat section) - 8-1/8" [8-1/2"]

Rear rocker panel at dog leg intersection/rocker (flat section) - 8-1/2" [8-1/2"]

Rear wheel arch (inner part of lip) - 26-1/2" [26-1/2"]

Front frame rail at floorboard/firewall seam - 6-1/8" [6-3/4"]

So then, my car sits basically at stock height. Tire pressure and diameter may be the differentiating factors.

:nervous:

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