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Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain

  1. None of the S30's came with headlight relays. I don't think they planned on the car lasting as long as they have, honestly.
  2. The 240Z headlight upgrade harness was designed for and only for the 240Z. No simple modifications will allow it to be plug and play on the 260Z or 280Z. I used to make a Hard-wire version of the headlight upgrade harness as well as a plug and play 260Z/280Z harness but only when the customer could find and send me the connectors from a donor 260Z/280Z harness. They are super hard to find and making the Hard-wire version HLH is just not in the cards at the moment. A 240Z HLH can be modified for a hard-wire install if you wanna cut the connectors off. Or additional connectors and terminals can be added to the 260Z and up to 76' 280Z to make the harness plug and play.
  3. Mark, Sorry about that. Between Yahoo and the site host, it can be a battle to get some emails. Please email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and I'll be happy to answer all your questions, including prices and shipping.
  4. *NOTE* The new address is.... David Irwin 5830 70th St. NE Marysville. WA. 98270 You can also use the contact here.. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net
  5. I just re-edited my whole profile as well as listing the web site
  6. The website works fine. As does my email. But I don't always get notifications from here. Yahoo does like to SPAM a lot of emails from my website though.
  7. Likely only 1 filament of that bulb will light up. I've seen it many times and on a few different brands of cars. If it works, leave it alone.
  8. LED headlights will occasionally flicker with a lower than needed power supply. Yes, the Headlight upgrade harness I make (and MSA sells) will give true battery voltage to the headlight pigtails (and headlights)
  9. Replacing the spring loaded bullet will not fix your problem. You'll notice the little finger that holds the bullet in, is broken. You will need a whole nother swingarm.
  10. ignore 1, 2, 3 and 4. those are for the key in buzzer. they rarely work and most people unplug them anyways. You can lube the spring loaded tabs with basic household oil... WD40, 20 weight oil, anything thin enough to work into the joints and not evaporate. bench test, and possibly open the headlight switch CAREFULLY and check the spring loaded bullets, contact cleanliness and if you lube them, do it VERY Sparingly. like a small dab on the top of each plastic bullet.
  11. #1. The problem with the brake lights is most likely in the turn signal switch. The T/S switch makes and breaks the contact between the brake switch and brake lights when the turn signal is in use. #2. Time to swap your T/S flasher to an EF32 electronic Flasher. More consistent flashing from 9 to 15 volts. #3. Sound's like the headlight combo switch needs service or the P.O. did some bad wiring. You can remove the column cover and use a jumper between the white/red and solid red wire on the headlight switch or from the green/white and green/blue to see if the headlights or Parking lights operate individually or together. Also inspect for non-stock wiring done by the previous owner.
  12. Captain, you're wrong. The turn Signal switch on the 240Z has one brake wire input from the brake pedal switch. The turn Signal switch splits the signal into left and right brake light wires. The T/S switch disconnects the right brake light output and switches it over to a right turn signal Flash. SteveJ, thanks for the shout out. Grubb240Z. I hold a 1 year warranty on the switch rebuilding service. SteveJ is right. I think the T/S switch is failing. If you want to send the turn signal switch back to me, I will repair it and get it back to you ASAP. Unfortunately, I do not have a built or spare turn signal switch to send you in the meantime. Email me and we can go over the details. Dave
  13. Yep. Shipped them out yesterday and you'll have them on Monday. Your headlight dimmer switch was completely missing from the previous owner cutting it out. When you send the loaners back, I'll be posting them up for sale. Probably $350 for the rebuilt pair with free shipping. Please let me/us know how it goes and your impressions on the switches and service. It's been great dealing with you Mr. Grubb... Dave
  14. Great to hear good news now and then.
  15. It's likely that the dimmer switch body or terminal plate is broken. No, nobody carries those parts. But, I do offer a complete rebuild of the turn signal switch and the headlight/wiper combo switch. I charge $70 per switch or $135 for the pair to be rebuilt and or refurbished. On a side note, You don't need to remove the steering wheel to remove the 2 switches. The black steering column cover is easily removed with about 5 screws on the bottom half of the shell. Then you'll see 2 screws holding the 2 switches together on the steering column. Unscrew them and carefully unplug all their connections. Message me here or through the website for shipping and payment details. Congrats on the new purchase and good luck, Dave
  16. The Relay upgrade harnesses that they are referring to are made and sold by me. I sell them to MSA (Motorsport Auto) They are all plug and play units. No cutting, drilling or hurting your ca, and easily installed and removed, if need be. I Also offer a Headlight and turn signal rebuild/refurbish service for all S30's (240Z-260Z-280Z) I only charge $70 per switch or $135 for the pair. Return shipping is included in the prices. You can also get the lighting Upgrade harness directly from me. I've made and sold over 4000 of each harness. (So ignore Phil Z, as everything is built by hand and quality controlled. His was a 1/4000 fluke... haha) Welcome to the club. We're happy to have you. Dave https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/
  17. Well, after selling over 4000 of them, 1 was bound to be bad..... If you'd like a new fuse holder (pre-tested of course), I'll be more than happy to send you a prepped and tested fuse-holder. PM me your address and info and I'll ship one out free of charge. On a side note. Call the seller (Motorsport Auto) and ask them for a replacement or for the manufacturers info. They'd be more than happy to help and I gave them permission Years ago to hand out my email and shipping info for any issue that may arise with my products. Let me know what you'd like to do, Dave Datsun-240Z-Upgrades.net
  18. ALSO........ after you've done all the above. Run an 8 gauge power wire from the (B+) alternator output bolt to the Starter's battery cable bolt. This will give you better, more efficient charging and minimize the higher amperage damage to the old 45 amp ammeter. This will stop it from over heating, not damage the ammeter and you'll see less movement on the ammeter dial. But you'll still have plenty of power to the fuse box. I had it this way on my 70' 240Z for 8 years with NO issues. Also a great idea to increase the battery cables to no less than 4 gauge with new clean and tight terminals. Pull the ground wire from the fender (below the battery-above the frame and across from the starter) and clean the metal surface and terminal and re-tighten snugly. That ground is from the alternator, dash and engine harness. Make sure you have a good ground wire from the Battery's negative post to the firewall as well.
  19. The best advice I can give you is to put all the wiring back to stock specs. Then, at the 6-pin connector that normally plugs into the Voltage Regulator (VR), due the following.... Connect the white and yellow wires together. Connect the black/white and white/black together using the diode. The stripe on the diode goes to the white/black wire. Use an internally regulated 60 amp alternator (81' to 83' 280ZX and other similar units) That's the best I can do for you at the moment. Dave
  20. Not really sure why they call it an amplifier..... It's just a timer (Delay, intermittent wipe) I swear I heard that it can be unplugged and the hi and lo are still operable, just no delayed wiper. I guess you can just unplug the 2 connectors on the delay unit and see how it goes. Couldn't hurt.... much.
  21. Being a 240Z guy, I'm not sure if the following info will help or not, but here it is.... On the Honda Motor..... Black = Ground Green/Black = Ignition power (from the car) Blue/Yellow = High Speed Blue = Low speed? (I think) Blue/White = Park Wire On the Z, firewall connector.... Black = Should be ground Blue/Red = Should be power On the Honda motor, when the blue and blue/white connect, the motor finishes it's rotation and parks. I read somewhere that the yellow wire can be tied into the blue/white on the Honda motor,though I'm not sure what it does or why it was done. honestly, there's SO MUCH CRAP on the same subject that the answer get's lost in the mix. I truly hope that somebody makes a be-all, end-all diagram for each series of S30's that allows the Honda wiper motor to run in Low, high and intermittent...... That would be nice. Here's 5 pages of "Guess-work"...... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/26561-honda-wiper-motor-upgrade-for-the-240z/?page=5 Good luck, Dave
  22. Yes, the 240Z connectors Are still available but unless they are crimped correctly and tight, they don't like to fit the larger red/white (high beam wire) very well. Ive actually done it to a few 280Z's but had to drill out the connector where the red/white was to go to make room for larger gauge wire. But again, a true Headlight upgrade harness will likely NEVER be removed, so going through the trouble of attaching weather-pack or 240Z style connectors, is Almost pointless.... Just my 2cents Dave
  23. I make a "Hard-Wire" version but everyone complains about having to cut their connectors off. Everyone wants plug and play for ease of install but they'll never remove it..... clear as mud?? I make the late 74 to 76' 280Z HW-HLH for $120 shipped. The relays are easily replaced with auto parts store relays. Dave
  24. The sooner somebody makes a matched set of 280Z Headlight connectors (Round, white, 4-position/3-wire connector) the sooner I can make Plug and play headlight upgrade harnesses for the 260/280Z's... Seems like A LOT of posts and most of it is confusing to those who don't know 12VDC systems.... Grab your inputs from the headlight connector in front of the radiator on the passenger (right) side. Red = power from fuse box and headlight switch Red/Black = Low beam (-) wire from Hi/Lo beam switch on the turn signal switch Red/White = High beam (-) wire from Hi/Lo beam switch on the turn signal switch Ground the Black or solid Red wire on each headlight pigtail, directly to the frame (clean the metal and bolt down the wire snug) on the engine harness right side plug.... red to pin #85 on both relays red/black to #86 on #1 relay red/white to #86 on #2 relay #30 on both relays gets fused power from the battery #87 on relay #1 to the red/black on the headlight pigtail of both headlights #87 on relay #2 to the red/white on both headlight pigtail on both headlights Like I said, if somebody can make the connectors AND find the 5mm?? male and female bullets (large bullet connectors on these plugs) then I can make P+P harnesses with no cutting, drilling or hurting the stock harness. Hope this helps for now.